Are any TJ years more reliable?
- Thread starter Xposure
- Start date
OP
Thanks for the steering box tip. I’ll look into that. As for the inspection, I’m not sure if I can pull that off...it’s pretty far out, took me about 3hrs one way too get there. Do you think just taking it to a Jeep dealership is sufficient or more of a off-road specialist?
OP
This is such a subjective question. No one can answer it.
More to the point how does it compare to the other 4. You need to make the decision. My TJ, I ran 30" winter tires all winter, 33s all summer. The 33s had no effect on the steering. I'd say the "slack" is a problem.... but you need to figure out if it is an issue. Maybe there are worn steering components. Pay for a mechanical inspection.
YES, a Jeep dealership can do the mechanical inspection just fine. Just GIT 'ER DONE.
OP
Wasn’t sure, I’m from the world of rx7’s and the last place you ever take one, especially modified, is a dealership....actually come to think of it, same with my daughters Prius, they just throw parts at them. I’m not a fan of dealerships but never have owned a Jeep....good to hear Jeep dealers have good shop support. I think there is a dealership about 2hrs away from his Jeep. Maybe we can work something out to get it there.
If it was any regular vehicle I’d have thought the steering has far too much play in it. But before I dug in too much I just wanted to make sure that wasn’t a characteristic of being lifted with 33” tires.
OP
Thanks for the tip...I found this online
Dry steer test: With Jeep in Park or Neutral, rear wheel(s) chocked, parking brake engaged, and front wheels straight, have an assistant step on the brakepedal and move the steering wheel slightly back and forth while you (on your back and under the front of the Jeep) observe and look for any motion that doesn't immediately translate to movement of steering components further "down the line". Look in particular at TREs (tie rod ends), bushings, connections, etc. Any slop anywhere will (or can) translate to wobble in steering. CA (control arm) bushings could easily be shot, too, but can be tough to Dx without removing them; look for cracks and/or dry-rot in them. They should be pretty tight and only give a little when pried with a pry-bar.
TJ Dry Steer Test
I’m going to narrow down to two then go look at both with my brother for a second set of eyes....we will do the Dry Steering test. Thanks for the tip.
OP
This one is a 99 and it has a lot of modifications, more than I was looking for like 4.56 gears which isn’t great on the interstate...but everything looks really well done, it went in and out of 4wd high and low great, everything looks and feels great and is clean and well done....except the steering play. The main thing that makes me lean toward this one is I’d LOVE to use a Jeep to go camping and this one has a Gobi roof rack! After spending the cash for a Jeep I really won’t need to spend so much on buying a roof rack....so getting it already on the Jeep is a huge benifit to me. We could start using it for camping right away.
You are only asking for a mechanical inspection. Brakes, steering, lighting, electrical, structural. I understand what you are saying as a tuner or Jeep builder but for ALL the inspection basics, which have zero to do with tuning or modifying, I'd trust a dealership over any focused tuner shop everyday.
OP
Mainly the issue is they are outside of the budget. I started out thinking it would be cool to have a Jeep when I saw a 98 by my house for $6500....then started looking at some that were 7500 which led to 8500 and I’m capped at 9k but don’t really want to spend that much unless it’s perfect for us.
A few of us have either had or considered the LJ and found the TJ is a better fit. If you can live with the space in a TJ, there is no need to sacrifice handling or maneuverability with the LJ. Plus the TJ is more affordable.
I've had both, and I prefer the Unlimited. We are a family of 4, and the extra room is nice. But if it was just me and the wife travelling, the TJ would be plenty.
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I also have had both. First time out in the woods, I clipped all 4 corners of the LJ. Never had a scratch on the TJ.
Went from the LJ to a JK. Now back with a TJ.
Point is, in most off road situations, I prefer the short wheelbase.
Went from the LJ to a JK. Now back with a TJ.
Point is, in most off road situations, I prefer the short wheelbase.
dmatt13
Member
OP
Was there something distinctive that is noticeable that I can look for to spot these heads that tend to crack? Id like to identify if they have the original head original head or not. What changed that causes them to crack?
Edit....I found they are stamped 0331 do you know where that stamp is located? I’d like to look for that. I’m supposed to look at one tomorrow that’s a 2001 so I need to be on the lookout for this. I read that many years have 0331 but the updated version had TUPY stamped in it. I also say that some 99’s have 0331 heads but that they don’t seem to have issues....is that a definite think that 98 and 99 don’t have this issue? So if I’m looking at a 00/01/02 I just need to make sure it has the TUPY stamp....then a 98/99 may be 0331 with no TUPY but that it’s still okay?
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dmatt13
Member
dmatt13
Member
When looking at the Jeep, the best way I've heard to check for the crack is to take off the oil cap, smell it to make sure there is only a small of oil and see if there's any foaming, etc on it. The crack lets coolant leak and fouls the oil.
People that have had the issue notice the coolant level go down in the Reservoir, but there's no visable leak.
People that have had the issue notice the coolant level go down in the Reservoir, but there's no visable leak.