New TJ buyer questions

I think it depends a lot on where in the US you're searching...I think people are aware that they can name their price, albeit within reason, for older Wranglers now. A dealer told me as much and said they feel confident that even if 100 people come and pass on it, someone will end up wanting it for the higher price and they're usually right.

I was very set on finding something under 100k as well but in hindsight that seems like a totally arbitrary number - I think most people on here will agree that you especially never want to sacrifice frame durability/quality for less miles. Finding something well taken care of, that wasn't wheeled hard and comes with a clean frame is going to be a good strategy but you'll pay for it, probably more than 11k. I'd personally recommend going for stock and making your own mods but just my 2 cents.

For reference, I (over)paid around 13k for mine at 940000ish miles. It's a clean stock Jeep but it had a lot of hidden rust inside the frame.

Also assume you're gonna put some $$ into maintenance ish - I needed sway bar links, my tie rods are on their way out, ball joints and u-joints will need replacing sooner than later, don't even talk to me about the fluid changes ha.

Good luck sorry for the essay

sparkyhooker said:

Yeah I guess I've always wanted to get one stock and do all the upgrades but now that I'm married it's harder and harder to talk the old lady into upgrades after the fact haha
I'm currently in Michigan so unfortunates it's really hard to find anything without rust

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Ah yeah, that is tough for sure. Ha, in that case I would say be patient. I have spent the last 3 weeks finding time to clean rust out/off when I could have been working on other maintenance items. You will be glad you waited I promise.

you are in a tough area to find a clean one, but it could be done. Also the time of year is playing against you, spring is coming and prices go up a bit. You might have to travel a bit to a dryer state.

Skip the 97, too many things are one year only on those.

Buy a plane ticket to a big city in the south. Get a rental car, hotel. Go on Craigslist and look at as many jeeps as possible over a few days. Pick one, buy itand drive it back north. U can probably get a cleaner Jeep down here for around 8000 than anything you will find in Michigan . By the time it’s all done u will be around 11000 dollars.

Yeah, what Erik said. I'm in Michigan too. My Jeep came out of Indiana... And it's got some rust issues. Not as bad as a true Michigan Jeep, but enough that I'll be replacing the tub and welding a couple small patches in the frame.

Good luck!

ErikOffroad said:

Buy a plane ticket to a big city in the south. Get a rental car, hotel. Go on Craigslist and look at as many jeeps as possible over a few days. Pick one, buy itand drive it back north. U can probably get a cleaner Jeep down here for around 8000 than anything you will find in Michigan . By the time it’s all done u will be around 11000 dollars.

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This is an excellent recommendation.

It is great that you have a pretty specific idea of what you're looking for.

I was pretty much the same way... At the same time what bit me in the billfold a little bit was I didn't know what to look for beyond what I was looking for .

I wanted a low mileage Rubicon setup for off road that was still on road capable and not butchered.

What I didn't know how to evaluate was the type, brand and condition of the lift kit, shocks and gearing .

I bought a Jeep with 20,500 Miles thinking that I was going to buy myself out of some of the headaches and that you face with higher-mileage vehicles.

I wanted one that was cared for-It had been meticulously cleaned after each time it was taken out... with a pressure washer likely . Every u joint on the vehicle was bone dry.

I'm not trying to scare you or dishearten you....but if you can get on this forum and read into these threads what you want to be looking for. .. both to get and to avoid .... that can help you .

For example a lift kit might make the Jeep more appealing until you find out it's all got to be redone .


I know I'm broadsiding you a little , but what I'm trying to say is arm yourself with knowledge .

Here is a scenario-

Jeep fits all the criteria ...plus it's lifted , so you buy in at 11k.

Once you get it home , you find out the lift is a mess , and it's geared stock with 33" tires , so now you have to redo the lift , regear it so it's drivable, buy shocks , replace u joints , change all the fluids ,do the brakes, get several front end parts replaced and then once you do all that , it really shows the tires are rough , so there's another 1000.00, etc. Now you have that 16-17,000 dollar Jeep and you haven't got to drive it hardly.

The full size spare is on the wrong type mount , so that has to go , the winch is rusted due to rain , and so on.

This happens . Not all the time , but it easily can ..there are tons of half built or home built TJ's out there ..and the knowledge to set these vehicles up well is pretty scattered and diffused when you get beyond this forum.

Welcome aboard , please don't let me rattle you , I'm trying to he helpful and realistic , not negative .

These Jeeps are fantastic , there is just a lot of diversity in the way you are going to find them set up and modified .

From the pics, nothing is abnormal for a tj of that age... go for the stock jeeps, all the dents and dings tell a story about its use more than the rust issues that are caused by the environment and design flaws. Identify the mods you want, and work that into your purchase price with the wife up front. If the jeep has wheeling mods already its most likely a wheeled jeep and should be evaluated differently. The seller will have that in mind and will want that money in their price... it may not be what you need. For example, all these jeeps driving around sporting a cheap tractor supply winch on the front... i laugh at most, the jeep doesnt even go off road and the winch will be worthless after a few winters with salt and no use... just a status thing i guess. As far as price... things are only worth what the buyer is willing to pay. If you feel the price is reasonable then it is... dont let the seller talk up all the crap they have done when its irrelevant. Time in repairs is not a factor for the buyer. Walk away if its not in your price range and the seller wont go down. Just my opions...

As a fellow Michigander, I can't emphasize enough how much I wish I had flown to Texas or Arizona to buy my TJ. The pictures you posted show a frame that has been repaired in the past and needs further repair. You don't want this.

The two biggest concerns id have is the frame and the cab mount support channels.... that will be the most time/ money consuming issues as far as rust. Hard to see it cuz it grows from the inside out. Usually a catastrophic failer before being noticed, unless you constantly evaluate and fight the issue. The previous owner of this jeep tried to hide the frame and body rot with spray foam and a blk rattle can dusted with freash mud. Push on the known weak spots during your inspection. I caught the hide job and beat the guy up in price just after he lost his tongue and broke out in a sweat.

In a vacuum, 8500 for a jeep in good condition is great. Got mine for 9k, and could not have been happier.

Like everyone else has mentioned, get details. If the sellers will tell you the VIN, you can look up a build sheet. That may answer more questions than an older couple will be able to.

Agreed on a "texas" jeep... i lived at Ft Hood for two years and Ft Bliss for a year. WOW... amazing rust free vehicles! Was a 72 blazer i was in love with that looked like it was just made. But that area of the country has caught on to or northern salt issues and price will reflect that.

sparkyhooker said:

Well I may have lucked out! I found one in Chicago that spent most of its life in Texas and since then has been in a garage and kept in near mint condition, absolutely zero rust, the thing looks like it just rolled out of the factory. Hopefully it will be in my hands this week!

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That’s great. Take a look at the floor pans and the torque box area where the roll cage bolts behind the front seats. Good luck.