Front control arm help

JakeQ

JakeQ

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
May 12, 2019
Messages
113
Location
Colorado Springs
I unbolted the front lower control arms at the rear bolt. I got the spring spacers in but now I cant line up the control arms. I still need to bolt on the winch but it looks like its going to sit pretty good now. Also I dont know what thats called, but I cant get it to line up either, to get it connected back to the mount on the frame.
99387
99388
99386
 
I used a ratchet strap on the top of the steering knuckle and pulled toward the rear for mine by hooking it to the skid plate but if it needs to move forward hook the other side of the ratchet to the bumper or frame toward the front.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: MaloStapalo and JakeQ
First connect the lower control arm. You can get the bold to line up by placing your jack under the lower control arm bracket (near tb mount) and jacking up. To move the bolt the other direction jack off the pinion. (Use a block of wood.) Once connected use a racket strap to pull the axle into alignment to get the track bar bolt in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JakeQ
There's a few ways to do it. One would be to release tension on axle. The other (which I've used more than a few times) is to take a very big, burly screwdriver and shove it in the hole from one side. I use it to slightly pry the holes back into alignment, just enough so that I can slip a bolt in there.

I'm sure some will criticize my method, but it's worked for me a number of times, and I'd do it again if necessary.

Like I said though, you can release the tension on that control arm and get the holes to line up. Sometimes I start with a jack on that side of the frame and jack it up until the wheel on that side is off the ground. If you play around with jack heights and positions, eventually it will fall into place.

I'm sure someone has a better method, this is just what's worked for me in the past.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01
Chris said:
There's a few ways to do it. One would be to release tension on axle. The other (which I've used more than a few times) is to take a very big, burly screwdriver and shove it in the hole from one side. I use it to slightly pry the holes back into alignment, just enough so that I can slip a bolt in there.

I'm sure some will criticize my method, but it's worked for me a number of times, and I'd do it again if necessary.

Like I said though, you can release the tension on that control arm and get the holes to line up. Sometimes I start with a jack on that side of the frame and jack it up until the wheel on that side is off the ground. If you play around with jack heights and positions, eventually it will fall into place.

I'm sure someone has a better method, this is just what's worked for me in the past.
Click to expand...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QV2JUCA/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
  • Like
Reactions: mikespine
Chris said:
There's a few ways to do it. One would be to release tension on axle. The other (which I've used more than a few times) is to take a very big, burly screwdriver and shove it in the hole from one side. I use it to slightly pry the holes back into alignment, just enough so that I can slip a bolt in there.

I'm sure some will criticize my method, but it's worked for me a number of times, and I'd do it again if necessary.

Like I said though, you can release the tension on that control arm and get the holes to line up. Sometimes I start with a jack on that side of the frame and jack it up until the wheel on that side is off the ground. If you play around with jack heights and positions, eventually it will fall into place.

I'm sure someone has a better method, this is just what's worked for me in the past.
Click to expand...

I'm siding with your "more than a few times" option and I'll try to stop the criticizers by suggesting a drift punch although I have no real problems with using "a very big, burly screwdriver" when nothing else is handy. FWIW a BFH always helps with either one of those .
 
I would support the frame on stands and let the axle drop down so you can maneuver the bolt into place. Same way for the track bar, and then re-torque everything once it’s on all 4’s again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jacobs and JakeQ
JEEPCJTJ said:
I'm siding with your "more than a few times" option and I'll try to stop the criticizers by suggesting a drift punch although I have no real problems with using "a very big, burly screwdriver" when nothing else is handy. FWIW a BFH always helps with either one of those .
Click to expand...

Yes, the BFH works as well.

Like I said, I'm not saying it's right, but it worked for me a number of times, so take that for what it's worth ;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jacobs and JakeQ
AAR: Death wobble on road, performs BEAUTIFULLY off road. I think the old ball joints arent happy I unbolted them. So when I get to Maine its gonna be a town rig for awhile until I buy some upgraded steering components and new ball joints. I think that will kick the DW to the curb. On a side not, if I drag the breaks over the DW causing bumps it almost always stops it from happening.
 
Top Bottom
Back