Dead battery: Interior lights won't shut off

pagrey said:
The cluster is what's doing all this. The ignition switch works, so do the door switches. You already tested they work with the buzzer test. Their signals are getting to the cluster, they don't go anywhere else. It can't be the switches. It can't be the ignition switch. It's wiring, the color I mentioned or the cluster.
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I hate sounding dumb, but when you say its the wiring, I get that and have checked all that I can find. But when you say "cluster" I'm a bit confused.

Also I hate sounding redundant, but couldn't it still be the PCM/ECM?
 
BobK said:
I hate sounding dumb, but when you say its the wiring, I get that and have checked all that I can find. But when you say "cluster" I'm a bit confused.

Also I hate sounding redundant, but couldn't it still be the PCM/ECM?
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Found the ECIM in the Service Manual - Electromechanical Instrument Cluster
 
So is the ECIM a replaceable or testable component?


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pagrey said:
Carefully looking at the diagram posted in post #38 you can see that the upper half is YL/BR which is B+ or always 12V. The lower half is YL/OR and there are no additional connections listed. So this means that the power (or ground) for the interior lights shown on this page is coming from the instrument cluster pin 5 C2.

Keep in mind the dimmer on the multi-function switch connects to the instrument cluster along with all the door switches and not the PCM. I don't see how the PCM can play a role in this.

Edit: this also means that if any YL/OR wire is shorted to ground the interior lights will stay on no matter what the cluster says
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From looking at the wiring diagram posted, I agree. One caveat, I was helping a forum member one time troubleshoot the 4WD light on his Rubicon by looking at the FSM wiring diagram. This particular diagram showed the switch as a NO switch with contacts. As he dug further into it, the switch was actually a multi-position sensor switch. He removed the switch and disassembled it. Each circuit had a different value resistance so the instrument cluster would “know” which position the transfer case lever was in.
The point of my long-winded post is the wiring diagrams don’t always show the detail one would expect in a wiring diagram.
 
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BobK said:
I hate sounding dumb, but when you say its the wiring, I get that and have checked all that I can find. But when you say "cluster" I'm a bit confused.

Also I hate sounding redundant, but couldn't it still be the PCM/ECM?
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The interior lights all connect to the instrument cluster, your speedometer/odometer. When I say check wiring I mean trace the yellow wire with the orange stripe from the interior lights, left and right, from the under dash lights both left and right and from the compass mirror all the way back to the instrument cluster and be sure they aren't shorting to ground. If that color wire is damaged and touching ground anywhere it will cause this to happen. It could be anywhere, behind the dash or in the roll bar area. It could be a screw went through the wire or it wore through the insulation.

These wiring problems suck, I'd check those wires first and then worry about the cluster being bad. If you have a voltmeter and remove the speedometer plugs with the Jeep off and all the bulbs you can really get down to business but I don't know what your skill level is with that sort of stuff.

It is possible that the diagram is not correct or that I'm totally out to lunch, just posting what I'd do in the same situation. The short I am suggesting you look for will cause this exact issue.
 
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So if I could locate the "switch connector receptacle" and the C2 Connector, life would be grand.



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More to come. I'm not afraid of digging into the wiring, just not a huge fan. I find electrical problems to be a lot like plumbing problems. You fix one drip and the next day you find that while tightening the fixture to stop the first drip, you caused two others.

I will begin the hunt for these elusive connectors......
 
BobK said:
More to come. I'm not afraid of digging into the wiring, just not a huge fan. I find electrical problems to be a lot like plumbing problems. You fix one drip and the next day you find that while tightening the fixture to stop the first drip, you caused two others.

I will begin the hunt for these elusive connectors......
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I circled the C2 connector. It’s a single rectangular connector.

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I've watched him before, he is hilarious. Almost as many bad words from him as in my garage!
Lest you think I am just sitting back waiting for an answer to be provided, I have now disconnected virtually everything in the light circuit. Door switches - disconnected/removed, multifunction switch - disconnected/removed, #4 fuse - removed, radio - disconnected/removed, instrument panel/cluster - disconnected and removed!

Lights still on. Let the wire testing begin, I am not happy.


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What is this connector "body wire harness for the driver and passenger door ajar switch"

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BobK said:
Post #55
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Ha, missed it. Any remnants of a previously installed alarm system? The reason is most of them tie into the dome/courtesy lamps so when the alarm is set/activated all the lights flash on and off.
 
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This Jeep was 100% stock when I got it a few months ago. I hate to say it, but I may have reached the limit of my problem solving abilities. The interior of the TJ is all over the place, the damn light refuse to go out, I’ve disconnected virtually everything called for, every wire I chase seems good to me.......
 
BobK said:
This Jeep was 100% stock when I got it a few months ago. I hate to say it, but I may have reached the limit of my problem solving abilities. The interior of the TJ is all over the place, the damn light refuse to go out, I’ve disconnected virtually everything called for, every wire I chase seems good to me.......
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Yes, it’s not a common problem. Since you have removed all the factory sources of power, this leads me to believe someone had an alarm system installed at one time, baring any clowns that may have hacked up your wiring.
 
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I keep asking myself, what changed? I see no signs of an alarm system. The guy I purchased it from was not mechanically inclines at all. The one prior owner was a women who used it as a daily driver.
 
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