Help! What did I do to my TJ?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but while a bent pushrod could cause a misfire, I don't think it would create the results he was getting from the tailpipe test (sucking the paper in at the tailpipe), as a bent pushrod would result in not opening the valve completely, whereas a bent or burnt valve would result in an opening that would allow for the suction he was witnessing.
 
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Bent pushrod...wouldn't I be hearing valve train noise? A ticking or hammering?

I would welcome a bent pushrod over the potential alternatives! 🙃
not if it is no longer in contact with the valve, it will just be a dead cylinder. Hope for the best, do not be suprised at the worst.

if all else fails, I used to pour a quart of water down the intake with the engine running, and keep it running! it seems to steam clean inside the cylinder and ports...no joke or sarcasm.
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but while a bent pushrod could cause a misfire, I don't think it would create the results he was getting from the tailpipe test (sucking the paper in at the tailpipe), as a bent pushrod would result in not
intake or exhaust pushrod? if the intake was toast, it may have a reversion with the exhaust working.
 
Thanks guys!

I got back to the house a little bit ago, and indeed did disconnect the battery (great time clean the terminals too, and I did.)

The code did go away. However I've still got a consistent miss, and the OBD says #2 cylinder.

Pulled the distributor cap, all was well, cleaned all the terminals in there with steel wool while it was open, same with the rotor. All was bone, bone dry.

Since I saved my old plug wires, I tried another wire on #2, still regularly missing.

Pulled #2 plug, saw some funky looking deposit I can't really identify. Although it's very, very minor, and brushed right off with an old toothbrush.

Still have the miss.

View attachment 130589

View attachment 130590
those look like glazed plugs, something got too hot or went lean, maybe a bad injector?

stolen from: https://www.turbododge.com/threads/reading-spark-plugs-and-troubleshooting-guide.624186/

Glazing – Ceramic insulator tip appears to have a melted, glazed coating. Here the spark plug shows that the engine has been operating too hot at high speeds. These plugs should be replaced with a colder heat range.
1577160112253.png
 
intake or exhaust pushrod? if the intake was toast, it may have a reversion with the exhaust working.
My internet is acting up, so my posts are slow and somewhat incomplete at the moment. Could you further explain how that would work? I'm not being sarcastic. I genuinely would like to know/understand it. Thanks!
 
Hmmm, thank you.
those look like glazed plugs, something got too hot or went lean, maybe a bad injector?

stolen from: https://www.turbododge.com/threads/reading-spark-plugs-and-troubleshooting-guide.624186/

Glazing – Ceramic insulator tip appears to have a melted, glazed coating. Here the spark plug shows that the engine has been operating too hot at high speeds. These plugs should be replaced with a colder heat range.
View attachment 130646
Hmmm...thank you. Hadn't read that before.

Do you this qualifies? New idea and territory for me.
Screenshot_20191223-153934_Photos.jpg
 
Still not understanding the belief that a bent pushrod could cause the suction at the exhaust/tailpipe, but do see it causing a misfire. Hope you discover what the issue is soon, so you can get back out there in the woods. I'll be following this with great interest. Best of luck to you, @Halfstock!
 
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People have you tearing apart engines when there is still simple stuff to try e.g. injector, injector wire

Yep, I'm into simple first!

Compression test soon to rule out the mechanical.

Will mess with injector stuff maybe the day after Christmas.
 
Still not understanding the belief that a bent pushrod could cause the suction at the exhaust/tailpipe, but do see it causing a misfire. Hope you discover what the issue is soon, so you can get back out there in the woods. I'll be following this with great interest. Best of luck to you, @Halfstock!
Thanks @Squatch I appreciate your well wishes.

Thanks so far to everyone for their input...and a Merry Christmas to all!
 
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My internet is acting up, so my posts are slow and somewhat incomplete at the moment. Could you further explain how that would work? I'm not being sarcastic. I genuinely would like to know/understand it. Thanks!
If the intake is bent or not working, the exhaust would push out on one stroke and with no intake, your next one may have negative pressure causing some suction. Not for sure on this but it’s just a thought.
 
I agree with @CodaMan, don't do anything major till you know what the problem is. Don't take apart the motor. I probably wouldn't swap injectors either. Make sure they are working first. Also don't rely on the paper trick. It is not an exact diagnosis.

The next thing I would do is a compression test. If you have a gauge, then it is free and non-obtrusive. It will tell you for sure if there is an engine problem or not.

I am still guessing it is an ignition problem, unless you already had something wrong, and you just pushed it over the edge. Say you had some carbon like I think @Squatch mentioned earlier. That could definitely come in a high rev situation, although very rare.

I am not saying that the fuel injectors are not your issue, but it seems unlikely that they just died right then. Not to say they didn't, but again highly unlikely.

It sounds like you are busy over Christmas, and I am hoping despite the TJ issues, you are enjoying you holidays, but you have a lot more room for diagnosis before you start taking things apart, and possibly making things worse.

Start with the easy stuff, as you were doing, and don't lose your head.

Look at the grounds all over you Jeep. If you were stuck in the mud, and if any were loose it is possible you have a bad ground? I know that seems like a stretch with so many different grounds, but to me it sounds more likely than an injector just died. Not saying it didn't, just don't think you should start with the injectors in my opinion.

After you get your grounds all cleaned up, I am talking not just the battery, but inspect them all where ever you can find them, if that didn't fix it, go over the ignition again. That is really where I am betting the issue is, but again it is hard to tell without looking at it myself. If you truly have gone over the ignition, and are satisfied that it is good, then I would do a compression test. That should tell you what your next step is.

To break it down. If you check the electrical, and the ignition, and do a compression test, and it is all good, then it may be time to check the fuel, but I would start with a fuel pressure test because the tester is cheap, and it is so easy to do on the TJ.

A simple compression test will tell you if it is internal to the engine, or not. Please at least do that before you start taking things apart.

I am also betting if you had an actual injector issue, you would see more engine codes. I bet the 02 sensors would have a tough time keeping up with a dead injector. That leads me to believe that the ignition problem is so fast that it doesn't disrupt the normal activities of the computer. Like say if it notices a misfire it probably has to happen so many times in a row before it throws the code, and it may be intermittent. Like becomes more pronounced at high revs enough for the computer to pickup on it? Or the opposite, it clears up at higher revs, and is more pronounced at an idle?

Driving it around a little more might give you more of the story too.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
I agree with @CodaMan, don't do anything major till you know what the problem is. Don't take apart the motor. I probably wouldn't swap injectors either. Make sure they are working first. Also don't rely on the paper trick. It is not an exact diagnosis.

The next thing I would do is a compression test. If you have a gauge, then it is free and non-obtrusive. It will tell you for sure if there is an engine problem or not.

I am still guessing it is an ignition problem, unless you already had something wrong, and you just pushed it over the edge. Say you had some carbon like I think @Squatch mentioned earlier. That could definitely come in a high rev situation, although very rare.

I am not saying that the fuel injectors are not your issue, but it seems unlikely that they just died right then. Not to say they didn't, but again highly unlikely.

It sounds like you are busy over Christmas, and I am hoping despite the TJ issues, you are enjoying you holidays, but you have a lot more room for diagnosis before you start taking things apart, and possibly making things worse.

Start with the easy stuff, as you were doing, and don't lose your head.

Look at the grounds all over you Jeep. If you were stuck in the mud, and if any were loose it is possible you have a bad ground? I know that seems like a stretch with so many different grounds, but to me it sounds more likely than an injector just died. Not saying it didn't, just don't think you should start with the injectors in my opinion.

After you get your grounds all cleaned up, I am talking not just the battery, but inspect them all where ever you can find them, if that didn't fix it, go over the ignition again. That is really where I am betting the issue is, but again it is hard to tell without looking at it myself. If you truly have gone over the ignition, and are satisfied that it is good, then I would do a compression test. That should tell you what your next step is.

To break it down. If you check the electrical, and the ignition, and do a compression test, and it is all good, then it may be time to check the fuel, but I would start with a fuel pressure test because the tester is cheap, and it is so easy to do on the TJ.

A simple compression test will tell you if it is internal to the engine, or not. Please at least do that before you start taking things apart.

I am also betting if you had an actual injector issue, you would see more engine codes. I bet the 02 sensors would have a tough time keeping up with a dead injector. That leads me to believe that the ignition problem is so fast that it doesn't disrupt the normal activities of the computer. Like say if it notices a misfire it probably has to happen so many times in a row before it throws the code, and it may be intermittent. Like becomes more pronounced at high revs enough for the computer to pickup on it? Or the opposite, it clears up at higher revs, and is more pronounced at an idle?

Driving it around a little more might give you more of the story too.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Many thanks for the insight.

Indeed I'll be doing more non invasive diagnostics before tearing things apart...if it is simple, such as ignition/electrical issues, while I absolutely hate tracking down electrical bugs, it beats the alternatives!
 
If the intake is bent or not working, the exhaust would push out on one stroke and with no intake, your next one may have negative pressure causing some suction. Not for sure on this but it’s just a thought.
Okay, I at least understand where you're coming from on that. Appreciate the 'splanation, Lucy. :)
 
if all else fails, I used to pour a quart of water down the intake with the engine running, and keep it running! it seems to steam clean inside the cylinder and ports...no joke or sarcasm.

I've seen my dad do that on a carbureted vehicle. But he didn't just dump it in, he dribbled it in slowly using his thumb over the opening of a coke bottle. And it does work to steam out carbon. He would do it until the black smoke from the exhaust turned to white.

I would think just dumping it in could cause hydro-lock.
 
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I've seen my dad do that on a carbureted vehicle. But he didn't just dump it in, he dribbled it in slowly using his thumb over the opening of a coke bottle. And it does work to steam out carbon. He would do it until the black smoke from the exhaust turned to white.

I would think just dumping it in could cause hydro-lock.
So does that mean I am old enough to be your dad? :)