Suspension lift help

Roxanne01TJ

Roxanne01TJ

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2019
Messages
61
Location
Myrtle Beach
Here is my 01 TJ:

DBB60269-E07A-4ABA-A931-37C101838797.jpeg


as of right now it has a 2 inch suspension lift on 31s. The suspension lift is from rough country (I know it’s cheap but i don’t care.) I do mild trails with the boys on the weekends. The suspension lift is shocks and spacers for the coil springs.

B352EEE6-6EC1-4118-BA5E-AFA4CF4434BC.jpeg


EE15183F-D6A1-4699-B000-6BDB443FB77D.jpeg


So here’s the deal. I was wondering if I could order new 1 inch springs, reuse the coil spacers, and add an inch of lift. The bump stops are already adjusted way too far, and i hear the rear hitting them from time to time. I have a crossmember drop just in case I get driveshaft vibrations. I was gonna go for a body lift but I can’t because... we’ll here:

219E1C9D-7202-40AA-8744-384D652FCCBB.jpeg


and no I’m not selling the Jeep and getting a new one. I’m leaving for the navy in 6 months so there’s no point. I beat the living hell out of this thing every weekend... and I mean I beat it bad. But the trails I go on are mild. They’re actually technically not even trails. They’re for construction workers.

anyway, I tried contacting rough country but they seemed closed due to Coronavirus. so basically back to my question: can I add 1 inch lift springs, reuse the coil spacers, and not have to get new shocks? Do your thing forum. I’m also on a budget because I’m in high school 😐 so don’t think I have 10s of thousands of dollars to throw at this thing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steel City 06
I think you should probably take care of that rusted out torque box first. There are several weld on kits, such as the ones from Safe-T-Cap that fit right over that and simply get welded in place.

If you have access to a welder or know someone who can weld, it shouldn't be terribly expensive. Even if you have a shop do it, it shouldn't be astronomical.

Check for any other areas that may be rusted through as well, particularly on the frame. You may want to take a hammer and bang on any soft looking spots to check.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
those body mount rails/boxes are replaceable.
the shocks are a question mark. depends where they are in there travel zone now. if you disco the shock and it extends about 5" your likely fine.
4" it's gonna leave you a little short on droop or down travel.
under 4' and your already short, they'll need replaced.

the proper way is once you pull the springs cycle your axle and find the shock that fits best. parked in the driveway the shock should sit in middle of it's travel range.
 
Steel City 06 said:
I think you should probably take care of that rusted out torque box first. There are several weld on kits, such as the ones from Safe-T-Cap that fit right over that and simply get welded in place.

If you have access to a welder or know someone who can weld, it shouldn't be terribly expensive. Even if you have a shop do it, it shouldn't be astronomical.

Check for any other areas that may be rusted through as well, particularly on the frame. You may want to take a hammer and bang on any soft looking spots to check.
Click to expand...
Have already done that Chief. The frame is in decent shape now. It’s mostly the body. I could care less about it now since I’m leaving for the navy soon anyway. She’s in the south now so it won’t be as bad for it since I drilled drain holes into the frame.
 
someguysjeep said:
those body mount rails/boxes are replaceable.
the shocks are a question mark. depends where they are in there travel zone now. if you disco the shock and it extends about 5" your likely fine.
4" it's gonna leave you a little short on droop or down travel.
under 4' and your already short, they'll need replaced.

the proper way is once you pull the springs cycle your axle and find the shock that fits best. parked in the driveway the shock should sit in middle of it's travel range.
Click to expand...
Thank you for answering the main part of the question. And I actually did not know they sold body mount rail replacements. I would get those but again I’m leaving this Jeep behind soon so i can fix it when I get back.
 
Well, sport, it could be the shocks are blown and just replacing them could fix your bottoming out problem. A quick look at them appears they are too long and they are what is slamming. S better, shorter shock such as as a Rancho 5000x could be a solution. And at around $50 they are a bargain too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Steel City 06
Goatman said:
Well, sport, it could be the shocks are blown and just replacing them could fix your bottoming out problem. A quick look at them appears they are too long and they are what is slamming. S better, shorter shock such as as a Rancho 5000x could be a solution. And at around $50 they are a bargain too.
Click to expand...
Sport, the shocks have 2000 miles on them... they’re not blown. My old shocks were blown. I installed this lift in January. No way they’re blown. I don’t really mind the bump stops. It is only a sound. I’m mainly trying to lift it another inch.
 
your missing all your jounces too. they would make it a softer hit. when/if you did bottom out. somthing is odd appearing in the rear. those springs look shot to me. measure your space pad to pad for springs front n back. over 12 up front is lifted amount. over 8 in the back.
the way the rear appears is if you had jounces they be hitting already and that's not right, something appears off.
 
someguysjeep said:
your missing all your jounces too. they would make it a softer hit. when/if you did bottom out. somthing is odd appearing in the rear. those springs look shot to me. measure your space pad to pad for springs front n back. over 12 up front is lifted amount. over 8 in the back.
the way the rear appears is if you had jounces they be hitting already and that's not right, something appears off.
Click to expand...
Here is the rear... the front looked okay

7B07538B-2FEA-4E60-AD41-974B67FEB2EE.jpeg
 
rear looks a little saggy. no odd extra weight in the ass end right now? do you keep it loaded? is the jeep extra heavy right now so it might not hold up to what it should?

if not, it probably needs replaced. kinda hard to accurately read the top end but looks like a stock spring would net you an inch or so back there.

you got pucks on front and back or just front?
 
someguysjeep said:
rear looks a little saggy. no odd extra weight in the ass end right now? do you keep it loaded? is the jeep extra heavy right now so it might not hold up to what it should?

if not, it probably needs replaced.
Click to expand...
Nothing but the spare tire, the rear seat, and my jack and torque bar to replace a tire. When you say “it” needs replaced to do you mean the springs?
 
ya, factory spring should hold the rear with about 8" of spring height, then pucks would extent that height and be considered lift.

fronts ok, means spring holds 12" and the puck is +2"?
 
someguysjeep said:
ya, factory spring should hold the rear with about 8" of spring height, then pucks would extent that height and be considered lift.
Click to expand...
Ah okay. So back to my main question then, do you think 1” lift coil springs would work? I just wanted to get some extra lift out of my tj. Thanks for all of your help by the way.
 
a +1" would restore what should be there +1", so it could equate to more, from a where it is now standpoint. a +1" would appear to add about 2" since your springs sagged 1.
 
so in front if you have that extra shock length you have room. if you can keep 4" up travel and 4" down travel that's good. positioning the shock at it's mid point at rest is best, as long as you can support the 4U/4D minimum.
 
Last edited:
someguysjeep said:
so in front if you have that extra shock length you have room. if you can keep 4" up travel and 4" down travel that's good. positioning the shock at it's mid point at rest is best.
Click to expand...
Okay gotcha. I might just end up removing the pucks and just adding 3 inch lift springs instead. Thanks for the help.
 
be warned 3" can give you some drive line vibes. usually a motor mount lift or a small belly pan drop will help.
and some springs can produce more lift than they state. my MC 's say 3.5" but hold my rear with a +4".
 
someguysjeep said:
be warned 3" can give you some drive line vibes. usually a motor mount lift or a small belly pan drop will help.
and some springs can produce more lift than they state. my MC 's say 3.5" but hold my rear with a +4".
Click to expand...
Yeah I already have a belly drop ready to be installed. I just don't like the idea of lifting it a little more just to drop the belly :ROFLMAO:. So I might end up doing a motor mount lift instead, we'll see.
 
  • Like
Reactions: someguysjeep
Top Bottom
Back