Frame and tub restoration

robert_tj_ski

robert_tj_ski

Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2019
Messages
75
Location
Spencer, MA
Hi all !
Now into next step. Planning on going underneath the jeep scrape of all the rust from outside the frame, watched some youtube videos and I'm also planning on atacking the inside of the frame. Also wanna do the same thing to the tub scrape off any rust that is there.

For the inside of the frame I'm going to use Eastwood product.
Outside the frame going to use 3step por15. (I wanna scrape to the bare metal in easy accessible area, is that good ? I know POR15 likes to stick to the rust so I dont know if it will stick to bare metal.) Any thoughts?
And now I've been thinking what can I use for the tub. I was thinking something like rust oleum reformer couple of coats and then some paint but not sure yet, need some advice.

What would you guys recommend for the tub ? I dont like the shiny undercoating products...
 
IDK about Eastwood internal coating at this stage. get some drain holes in the frame. clean it out best you can. some even go to the extent of a long flexible mace on a drill to break up heavy debris, then flush it all out and start yearly fluid film applications.

wire wheels brushes and files will get most of the frame, acid products can help for tight hard to reach areas.

i personally didn't have the best exp with POR, my frame had been coated previously and even though i followed the prep directions, quite a bit did not adhere and can be removed in large pieces, and areas i had cleaned well b4 were continuing to deteriorate under the application. it's primer and paint for me.

primer and paint on the tub, anything more potentially seals in contaminants that'll eat holes over time..
 
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No hard coating inside the frame. You seal the rust inside and let it go to town unseen. Do a search on this topic. It has been covered at least a thousand times.👍
 
someguysjeep said:
IDK about Eastwood internal coating at this stage. get some drain holes in the frame. clean it out best you can. some even go to the extent of a long flexible mace on a drill to break up heavy debris, then flush it all out and start yearly fluid film applications.

wire wheels brushes and files will get most of the frame, acid products can help for tight hard to reach areas.

i personally didn't have the best exp with POR, my frame had been coated previously and even though i followed the prep directions, quite a bit did not adhere and can be removed in large pieces, and areas i had cleaned well b4 were continuing to deteriorate under the application. it's primer and paint for me.

primer and paint on the tub, anything more potentially seals in contaminants that'll eat holes over time..
Click to expand...
Thats what im planning m doing inside the frame long flexible mace. I currently have POR15 but want to redo it as the previous owner did it and wanna closely inspect what's underneath that. I heard POR15 likes to stick to the rust maybe if it's cleaned to bare metal it wont stick to it ?
 
robert_tj_ski said:
Thats what im planning m doing inside the frame long flexible mace. I currently have POR15 but want to redo it as the previous owner did it and wanna closely inspect what's underneath that. I heard POR15 likes to stick to the rust maybe if it's cleaned to bare metal it wont stick to it ?
Click to expand...
buy a small can and work the bad areas with it.
if it's not bad don't mess with it and risk trapping moisture or dirt. for clean bare metal i'd use primer and paint.
 
Good day all!
I've been digging around the forum for rusty frame fixes as my 97 has the rust. Not bad but it is there. Bought jeep at a steal price thinking I needed another hobby to work....
Frame is sound just has scum of rust everywhere except on/in higher portions. Now that I've crawled, banged, poked and prodded every inch of frame, I believe it will survive without reframing or safetycap products. What I do want to do, and seek opinions on, is to cut larger holes at each end of the frame (say 2x3 inch) forward and behind the track mounts. Clean out/treat and coat interior and fabricate a reinforcing plate/gusset to be welded around new large access holes. Then plug them with a rubber body hole plug when done. This will also allow periodic inspection, cleaning and maintenance access points. I also plan on drilling drain holes per other forum threads on the subject. Anyone seen this done or have thoughts on it?
I also have rusted (out) body mounts on torsion tube, middle and rear on driver and passenger sides. Only the actual mount point is rusted with less than and inch extension into adjacent metal. I'm thinking of fabricating a "cap" out of some aluminium aircraft frame material I have access to (same stuff ford makes frames out of). It would cap on three sides and cover the entire length and install with a combo of urethane epoxy fill and bolts. Give a better mount point for body and require no spot wields. Would not lift the body but would require different thickness bushings to be used. I've seen the after market fixes for this that duplicate original frame detail but think it could be done better maybe. Probably I'm just crazy but the engineer/scientist in me thinks its possible.
Thanks!
 
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Wojlookout said:
Good day all!
I've been digging around the forum for rusty frame fixes as my 97 has the rust. Not bad but it is there. Bought jeep at a steal price thinking I needed another hobby to work....
Frame is sound just has scum of rust everywhere except on/in higher portions. Now that I've crawled, banged, poked and prodded every inch of frame, I believe it will survive without reframing or safetycap products. What I do want to do, and seek opinions on, is to cut larger holes at each end of the frame (say 2x3 inch) forward and behind the track mounts. Clean out/treat and coat interior and fabricate a reinforcing plate/gusset to be welded around new large access holes. Then plug them with a rubber body hole plug when done. This will also allow periodic inspection, cleaning and maintenance access points. I also plan on drilling drain holes per other forum threads on the subject. Anyone seen this done or have thoughts on it?
I also have rusted (out) body mounts on torsion tube, middle and rear on driver and passenger sides. Only the actual mount point is rusted with less than and inch extension into adjacent metal. I'm thinking of fabricating a "cap" out of some aluminium aircraft frame material I have access to (same stuff ford makes frames out of). It would cap on three sides and cover the entire length and install with a combo of urethane epoxy fill and bolts. Give a better mount point for body and require no spot wields. Would not lift the body but would require different thickness bushings to be used. I've seen the after market fixes for this that duplicate original frame detail but think it could be done better maybe. Probably I'm just crazy but the engineer/scientist in me thinks its possible.
Thanks!
Click to expand...
I'm glad you found another hobby to work on :) . Yesterday I started scraping the old undercoating... so far is not looking that bad. It's going to be a long project though..
 
someguysjeep said:
buy a small can and work the bad areas with it.
if it's not bad don't mess with it and risk trapping moisture or dirt. for clean bare metal i'd use primer and paint.
Click to expand...
Started scraping the frame yesterday, I will scrape everything then see how it looks like and then decide of what I'm going to do.
There was POR15 applied by previous owner, some spots are hard to scrape and some parts are easy.
 
yep if it was done already it'll be hard to remove. i couldn't. best i could do is try and scuff it all up to try and hold the next application.
it sticks to all the spots that had some rust, but it does continue to deteriorate underneath, just slower.
the areas i over coated that were not bad........ i can now go lift a corner on pull off large strips (kinda like sunburnt skin peels) it never got a hard bond, just like i put a layer of plastic paper over it.

the product is an encapsulation coating, what that means is it seals it off and buries it. once it's sealed the condition that allows rust to thrive is blocked. in theory.

here's my honest advice............. buy 1 quart , use it on the worst areas you cannot get to just yet. everywhere else you can easily reach your best bet is TOTAL removal of all the rust. scrapers, wire wheels, brushes, files, sand paper. them cheap sponge sanding blocks work great for corners and edges.
there are several acid products that will eat away hard to dig out spots. i don't use rust converter, never found 1 that actually works.
then primer and paint is best it cannot hide anything should it try to come back.

POR is an encapsulant like i mentioned and it does it's job........but steel sweats and the moisture comes in from behind the application and then it's rusting in the same spots again. just hidden under the POR.
 
someguysjeep said:
POR is an encapsulant like i mentioned and it does it's job........but steel sweats and the moisture comes in from behind the application and then it's rusting in the same spots again. just hidden under the POR.
Click to expand...

3 years ago I have done POR-15 in a meticulous way and I hope it does not come back the way you explained here. If it does, then my rigs are screwed.
 
many things can factor into this.
how much nasty you were able to remove, condition of the frame interior, whether it was coated or not.
FF/oil can stifle the process as well. all these things keep contaminants and oxygen from having direct access to the metal.
it's really not 1 thing you did. it's more the regiment of things you do, to keep this at bay.

and Texas is just not the same as what we got up here, your dry weather is your best alli there. rust in the NE is a lifetime battle. compounded by harsh corrosive's covering the roads for 1/3 of the year.
 
someguysjeep said:
yep if it was done already it'll be hard to remove. i couldn't. best i could do is try and scuff it all up to try and hold the next application.
it sticks to all the spots that had some rust, but it does continue to deteriorate underneath, just slower.
the areas i over coated that were not bad........ i can now go lift a corner on pull off large strips (kinda like sunburnt skin peels) it never got a hard bond, just like i put a layer of plastic paper over it.

the product is an encapsulation coating, what that means is it seals it off and buries it. once it's sealed the condition that allows rust to thrive is blocked. in theory.

here's my honest advice............. buy 1 quart , use it on the worst areas you cannot get to just yet. everywhere else you can easily reach your best bet is TOTAL removal of all the rust. scrapers, wire wheels, brushes, files, sand paper. them cheap sponge sanding blocks work great for corners and edges.
there are several acid products that will eat away hard to dig out spots. i don't use rust converter, never found 1 that actually works.
then primer and paint is best it cannot hide anything should it try to come back.

POR is an encapsulant like i mentioned and it does it's job........but steel sweats and the moisture comes in from behind the application and then it's rusting in the same spots again. just hidden under the POR.
Click to expand...
Will post some pictures this evening, so far it doesnt look too bad.
 
my 1994 is 98% rust free. I POR 15 it years ago (10+) and it held up. Sand and scrape as much as you can. Do the degrease and metal prep as instructed. then do it again. Apply VER?y liberally. TWICE. If you miss some small spots then you will catch the 2nd time. I did add Monsta Liner for the tub though. Frame is POR 15 only. I live in Chicago and rust is king here. Never been in a garage.
 
robert_tj_ski said:
I'm glad you found another hobby to work on :) . Yesterday I started scraping the old undercoating... so far is not looking that bad. It's going to be a long project though..
Click to expand...
Thanks for reply!
Mine has some random spots of under coating to remove, mainly on exposed frame in interior of wheel wells and bottom of body tub... all at various application thicknesses. Think its a discount rattle can dyi spray job by PO. Its still a PITA to remove as it fowls up a flap sander and wire wheel like gum. Lacquer thinner softens and kinda disolves it but only if you csn keep surface wet and saturated. That requires more solvent then willing to purchase (plus its vapor point is low so a little spark can make a big boom...) I'll get the areas with rust eating in under it and ignore the more firmly holding areas this time around.
Are you going to put in additional drain holes in your frame? Treat the interior etc?
 
Wojlookout said:
Thanks for reply!
Mine has some random spots of under coating to remove, mainly on exposed frame in interior of wheel wells and bottom of body tub... all at various application thicknesses. Think its a discount rattle can dyi spray job by PO. Its still a PITA to remove as it fowls up a flap sander and wire wheel like gum. Lacquer thinner softens and kinda disolves it but only if you csn keep surface wet and saturated. That requires more solvent then willing to purchase (plus its vapor point is low so a little spark can make a big boom...) I'll get the areas with rust eating in under it and ignore the more firmly holding areas this time around.
Are you going to put in additional drain holes in your frame? Treat the interior etc?
Click to expand...
I got some sanding wheel from harbor freight that you attach to electric drill and it works good for me. Better then wheel brush. I am going to do drain holes. Haven't really look into details yet as how big and etc. I am drill a 2-3" hole in the back cross membrane to access the inside the frame and clean the inside.

What products you going to use ?
 
robert_tj_ski said:
I got some sanding wheel from harbor freight that you attach to electric drill and it works good for me. Better then wheel brush. I am going to do drain holes. Haven't really look into details yet as how big and etc. I am drill a 2-3" hole in the back cross membrane to access the inside the frame and clean the inside.

What products you going to use ?
Click to expand...

Probably Erickson rust encapsulator or similar (my local preffered parts house has some good offerings and if I need more product then anticipated I just drive a mile and buy it off the shelf... no ordering and waiting). Of course it'll be applied after good cleaning in and out of frame. Then I'm going to use an epoxy primer and paint on interior of frame; and standard automotive under carriage primer/paint on exterior of frame. Easier to apply and maintain over time (and monitor for new rust issues) I'm out west so think I'll be ok with this methodology. I'm going to do the big holes front and rear of the low section of frame also, with 5/8 inch drain holes in low points, and then install reinforceing on frame around the big holes. Also going to put removable rubber plugs in all factory holes I find.
 
It's in working progress... need to still work on some tight areas... but I'm not even close to be done. Want to take my time cleaning it.

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