Is this a stock piece for the transfer case or a spacer?

EZ_Wrangler

EZ_Wrangler

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2019
Messages
171
Location
Central Ohio
Someone answer before I fuck something up.
Is this a stock piece for the T case skid plate or is this supposed to be a drop spacer?
I was going to try to do a budget washer t case drop to test vibration cures. But then saw this. Should I not add onto this??

C727AAF4-831C-4E4B-8725-E24A3B0DF431.jpeg
 
Looks like a drop spacer. You can add to it as long as your bolts are long enough. But depending on some other variables it may not be worthwhile. For instance, if you only have a 2" lift and have vibrations even with a drop that large then there may be another issue (although dropping it some more would be a quick and cheap thing to test first). Make sure your driveshaft ujoints are in good shape and that your pinion nut is not loose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EZ_Wrangler and 06TJ35's
Thanks for the help everyone. Unfortunately, I posted yesterday or the day before and got ZERO responses about my vibrations.

but for S&G - it’s got a 4” lift and that spacer was 1.5” drop. Guess I’ll put it back up and figure something else out.
 
EZ_Wrangler said:
Thanks for the help everyone. Unfortunately, I posted yesterday or the day before and got ZERO responses about my vibrations.

but for S&G - it’s got a 4” lift and that spacer was 1.5” drop. Guess I’ll put it back up and figure something else out.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately sometimes threads get buried before they are seen.

With 4" of lift you are past the limit of what a transfer case drop is usually used for. Assuming you don't have a Rubicon, past 2" of lift a SYE and adjustable upper rear control arms are usually recommended, but you will need a new driveshaft as well, so it gets pricey (~$700 total).

A cheaper option you can try is a MML (motor mount lift) along with the transfer case drop.

I see no reason why you can't drop the transfer case even lower than 1.5" if you want, but if you want to maintain clearance one of the above options would be best.
 
  • Like
Reactions: EZ_Wrangler
Mobusaki said:
Unfortunately sometimes threads get buried before they are seen.

With 4" of lift you are past the limit of what a transfer case drop is usually used for. Assuming you don't have a Rubicon, past 2" of lift a SYE and adjustable upper rear control arms are usually recommended, but you will need a new driveshaft as well, so it gets pricey (~$700 total).

A cheaper option you can try is a MML (motor mount lift) along with the transfer case drop.

I see no reason why you can't drop the transfer case even lower than 1.5" if you want, but if you want to maintain clearance one of the above options would be best.
Click to expand...
I was going for a temporary fix. Mainly to fully diagnose what the issue is before I sink that kind of money into.
Clearance isn’t an issue at the moment as I have no plans for off-roading for a while.
I thought about a MML. There’s actually one for sale on the forum that’s somewhat local.I just haven’t researched it yet. Didn’t know the purpose or the advantages. I’m not a mechanic and don’t pretend to be. This is my learning opportunity. So if someone can explain the advantages of a MML, please do so. I need all the knowledge I can get.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mobusaki
EZ_Wrangler said:
I was going for a temporary fix. Mainly to fully diagnose what the issue is before I sink that kind of money into.
Clearance isn’t an issue at the moment as I have no plans for off-roading for a while.
I thought about a MML. There’s actually one for sale on the forum that’s somewhat local.I just haven’t researched it yet. Didn’t know the purpose or the advantages. I’m not a mechanic and don’t pretend to be. This is my learning opportunity. So if someone can explain the advantages of a MML, please do so. I need all the knowledge I can get.
Click to expand...

The MML raises your engine and the front of the transmission which favorably changes the driveline angles (offsetting the unfavorable changes from the spring lift). Some have been able to run a 3-4" lift without a SYE this way. Do you have a 4" spring lift or a 3" spring + 1" body lift? The second one would give the MML a better chance of working.

But there's no reason you can't run a MML and a transfer case drop. The cheapest route is of course to just keep dropping the transfer case.

You seem certain it is a driveline vibration, and the advice you are getting is based off that. But make sure that is what it is. If I were uncertain whether or not my vibration is driveline related I would make sure:

- tires are balanced
- the wheel stud holes are still round and not wallowed out
- steering components are all good (tie rod ends, drag link, etc) by starting the Jeep and having someone turn the steering wheel side to side while I look for lateral movement in the joints (there are videos showing this)
- unit bearings and ball joints are in good shape by lifting the front of the Jeep and grabbing the tire and checking for play/sounds by putting my hands at 12 and 6 and then 3 and 9 and giving it a good jerk to and fro.
- axle u joints are in good shape by lifting the front off the ground and turning the tire forward and then back. There should be no slack or play in the u joints
- the u joints in my driveshafts (front and rear) are OK by giving the shafts a good shake with my hand in and out, up and down, and side to side. The u joints should show no play.
- I would check the front and rear pinions for play, and the same at the transfer case for each driveshaft. The nut should not be loose. You should not be able to push the pinion in and out when you hold the driveshaft in your hand (some rotational play is normal and is from the gear backlash)

- Then I would look into driveline vibration from bad driveline angles (the advice already given in this thread)

- driveshaft balance is the last thing I would check. You would have to take it to a driveline shop
 
  • Like
Reactions: EZ_Wrangler
Mobusaki said:
The MML raises your engine and the front of the transmission which favorably changes the driveline angles (offsetting the unfavorable changes from the spring lift). Some have been able to run a 3-4" lift without a SYE this way. Do you have a 4" spring lift or a 3" spring + 1" body lift? The second one would give the MML a better chance of working.

But there's no reason you can't run a MML and a transfer case drop. The cheapest route is of course to just keep dropping the transfer case.

You seem certain it is a driveline vibration, and the advice you are getting is based off that. But make sure that is what it is. If I were uncertain whether or not my vibration is driveline related I would make sure:

- tires are balanced
- the wheel stud holes are still round and not wallowed out
- steering components are all good (tie rod ends, drag link, etc) by starting the Jeep and having someone turn the steering wheel side to side while I look for lateral movement in the joints (there are videos showing this)
- unit bearings and ball joints are in good shape by lifting the front of the Jeep and grabbing the tire and checking for play/sounds by putting my hands at 12 and 6 and then 3 and 9 and giving it a good jerk to and fro.
- axle u joints are in good shape by lifting the front off the ground and turning the tire forward and then back. There should be no slack or play in the u joints
- the u joints in my driveshafts (front and rear) are OK by giving the shafts a good shake with my hand in and out, up and down, and side to side. The u joints should show no play.
- I would check the front and rear pinions for play, and the same at the transfer case for each driveshaft. The nut should not be loose. You should not be able to push the pinion in and out when you hold the driveshaft in your hand (some rotational play is normal and is from the gear backlash)

- Then I would look into driveline vibration from bad driveline angles (the advice already given in this thread)

- driveshaft balance is the last thing I would check. You would have to take it to a driveline shop
Click to expand...
Thanks!! I’ve done most if not all of these in the last few weeks. That’s why I am where I am.

And to be honest on the lift, I’m not completely sure. I believe it’s a straight 4” spring lift. No BL that I know of. And haven’t thought to check it before.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mobusaki
Top Bottom
Back