Rock Slider Style

Both of those are actually integrated rocker guards and rock sliders.
The Rock slider part is the tubes that stick out from the side and, hopefully, intercept 80% of the rocks you encounter and allow you to slide or pivot over/around them without actually getting very close to your Jeep's body panels.
The rocker guard part is the sheet metal bit and is what you are referring to as far as apparent coverage. This part strengthens and protects your rocker panels (basically, the body panel below the doors) from being crunched if you run them against a rock/curb/shopping cart/annoying neighbor/etc. However; what appears to be added protection in the first example is actually a bit misleading as the part that they are protecting is actually a vertical seam only about 1/4" wide and is, in fact, well covered by both options. The first option might offer a slight bit more protection just from shear mass but, nit really that much. Go crawl under your TJ and look at that area under your doors to see what I mean.

Also, do the first units tie to the frame at all? It kind of looks like the pieces partially off-camera to the left are intended to do so. Tying to the frame is a definite plus as it adds considerable strength to the slider where the second option relies completely on the strength of the panel to which it bolts.

One other thing you are paying for in the first pic is the (I assume) powder coat finish which the Poison Spider option shown obviously lacks. As a rule, I would not pay a great deal for powder coating for such items as a good paint job, followed by after-ride checks for scratches that should be touched up will, in my experience, hold up just as well.

No problem on the termanology, I wasn't giving you grief, just pointing out a distinction that was important to the discussion.
My TJ has the OE Rubicon rocker guards and independant rock sliders that are welded directly to the frame so, it would be a bit of a rarity for a rock to even get to the rocker guards. I'll go out and look, but my recollection is there is not much in the area to protect...it's a kind of a sunken (OK, raised) area that would be very unlikely to be struck by anything that did not already come in contact with the rocker guard to get there.

OK, looking at that area...UGH! I just realize I must have laid down on a stink bug...God I hate those things!
Anyway, what I see is mostly raised up from the bottom of the panel where the rocker guard would mount and, moving in toward the center of the vehicle, it is not until you get to the body "rigidity box" (just made that up) that anything hangs down that low again.
From your latest pic, it looks like the 6" plate would go to that point and cover even some of the "box" so it might help in those rare cases where a rock protrudes up between the frame and the rocker guard/rock slider without making contact with rocker guard/rock slider first. What that is worth? Hard for me to say. Perhaps others with experiences with either of this type of guard setup can shed more light.

It all depends on your usage and needs. I'll place this right here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rock-sliders-rocker-guards-guide.8704/Happy reading.

Here is a photo posted by @Plumber1 in another slider thread showing Poison Spyder sliders at work. I do not believe that he has any concerns about the workmanship or efficacy of his sliders or the protection they provide but I'm sure he can speak for himself.





I have Shrockworks sliders on my LJ, installed by the previous owner whose wife told me that the LJ became "hers" the day her husband installed those steps. Shrockworks builds quality stuff (I have another Shrockworks product on my Xterra), but as with all of the other sliders on the market that try to be both rock sliders and steps, there are design compromises.





Another approach to rock sliders are the Savvy sliders designed by forum member Blaine Johnson. They are very popular on this forum for good reason. It is a well thought out design for true rock sliders.





Depending upon your particular needs, I don't think you would be unhappy with any of these three options. However, if you choose to go in a different direction just stay away from the cheap Chinese junk.

There's a bunch of folks not paying attention in this thread.

I ran the JCR classic sliders for the last year, but recently took them off for a couple reasons: 1. I never liked having to modify my Savvy body lift pucks to fit them and 2. I noticed some warping of the side of my tub, which is likely due to the you fasteners that hold the slider on and their locations. They did okay at protecting the bottom edge of the tub, but I don't like what they did to the side of my tub.

I have since taken them off and bought Savvys. While I'm prepping the savvy's for Powder Coating an install, I put the stock Rubi guards on.

Edit: my JCR classics are essentially identical to the Poison Spiders.

Mr. Blaine, do you have an idea of the backorder time ? thanks

Ken Perkins said:

Mr. Blaine, do you have an idea of the backorder time ? thanks

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Back order time for what?

jazz-n-tj said:

@mrblaine if you are referring to me as not paying attention, please help inform me. What I’m trying to figure out is if generic rock guard like the poison spyders are sufficient to handle the rocks of Southern California. Is it worth the time extra money to get the full length under body protection. I believe the savvy is full length and from what I understand you helped design them. I want to get what will be best for me in Southern California. But like a $600 aluminum radiator doesn’t out perform The stock $200 Mopar one, price doesn’t always mean better.

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He's probably referring to us who just started offering advice without really reading your post and listening to what you are asking. That is why i added another post to tell you about my experience with my JCRs which are like the PS.

@jazz-n-tj

My guess is that you will learn that the Savvy sliders were designed with the toughest trails in SoCal specifically in mind.

Are the Poison Spyder sliders good enough? Maybe. If you can do Dishpan Springs, Gold Mountain and John Bull in the San Bernardino mountains and your sliders stand up to the abuse, and those are the toughest trails you ever intend to encounter, then they may be good enough. Similarly, if you can regularly run Fordyce Creek and not do damage to your sliders or your rig they are probably good enough. Until they aren't. After all, shit happens.

In any event, I doubt that you can ask any designer of a better mousetrap if the prior mousetrap design is good enough and get a enthusiastically positive response.

I should probably add that Poison Spyder has not been an independent company since its founder sold his interest to Transamerican Auto Parts in early 2016 (think 4WheelParts, Pro Comp, Rubicon Express, Shittybilt, etc.). If you value doing business with entrepreneurs who are jeeping enthusiasts, that ship has sailed with Poison Spyder. You will be doing business with Polaris Industries, the conglomerate that owns Transamerican. When you buy from Savvy or from Black Magic Brakes (Blaine Johnson) you are supporting a local economy. Same with Shrockworks from Texas.


@taylormade73

Close, but I think Blaine was actually referring to prior spirited discussions in other threads regarding a particular brand of slider that was mentioned in one of the early posts..

If I were in your position I would purchase the sliders with a good reputation that appeal to you most and not worry so much about whether they are the absolute best, especially if not having them on your jeep is keeping you from jeeping. Just try to avoid sliders that have a reputation as damage multipliers.

If you go to 35's and start building for Johnson Valley you will probably replace most of the stuff you've purchased anyway - including your sliders - and there will always be a market for good used but not abused jeep parts.

Mr. Bills said:

If I were in your position I would purchase the sliders with a good reputation that appeal to you most and not worry so much about whether they are the absolute best, especially if not having them on your jeep is keeping you from jeeping. Just try to avoid sliders that have a reputation as damage multipliers.

If you go to 35's and start building for Johnson Valley you will probably replace most of the stuff you've purchased anyway - including your sliders - and there will always be a market for good used but not abused jeep parts.

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I can think of a set he'll not need to replace no matter where he choses to go.