Should I do a MML with 2.5" lift?

Amyrick97

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Ok guys so I’ve been reading a lot lately on lift kits because I want to put a 2.5 inch on my Jeep to get better clearance for my 31s. I believe I have my list together but I don’t have the money to do an SYE and I’m not too fond of dropping an already low skid plate. But I read some the other day on people doing a 1 inch motor mount lift to help with drive line angles. I’m extremely new to jeeps and I was wanting some opinions on what I should do, I’m thanking about doing the motor mount lift because I already want to do a tummy tuck “just not now” but it would already put me ahead.
 
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Ok guys so I’ve been reading a lot lately on lift kits because I want to put a 2.5 inch on my Jeep to get better clearance for my 31s. I believe I have my list together but I don’t have the money to do an SYE and I’m not too fond of dropping an already low skid plate. But I read some the other day on people doing a 1 inch motor mount lift to help with drive line angles. I’m extremely new to jeeps and I was wanting some opinions on what I should do, I’m thanking about doing the motor mount lift because I already want to do a tummy tuck “just not now” but it would already put me ahead.
The 1”MML is not a guarantee that you will be vibe free, but it’s worth a try.
 
The mm lift is normally used with a 1 1/4" body mount lift. 31s fit under a stock TJ for most trails. A 1" spring spacer kit is a cheap and easy way to find out if vibes will be a problem and also let those 31s move more while keeping the stock highway ride. There are several ways to run 31s. Do a bit more research into it and you may find what's right for you and your TJ. A tub lift is quick and easy and makes room for a tummy tuck and fuel tank tuck also.
 
The 1”MML is not a guarantee that you will be vibe free, but it’s worth a try.

X2 to this.

The only sure fire bet is lowering the transfer case enough or getting adjustable control arms, a SYE, and DC driveshaft. All of which you'll need anyways for a tummy tuck.
 
X2 to this.

The only sure fire bet is lowering the transfer case enough or getting adjustable control arms, a SYE, and DC driveshaft. All of which you'll need anyways for a tummy tuck.
Dang well I guess I’ll do the transfer case drop and run that till I can get SYE and adjustable control arms
 
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I’m a newbie here but in your case maybe look into the H&R stock-1” springs and Rancho rs5000x Shocks with a Saavy 1.25 body lift and core bomb proof mml.

Or just do the body lift and mml with stock suspension if the stock suspension is functioning. That may be enough to clear 31’s (correct me if I’m wrong), it wouldn’t break the bank, you “shouldn’t” get any weird vibes etc., and it’s the first step towards a future tummy tuck.
 
I’m a newbie here but in your case maybe look into the H&R stock-1” springs and Rancho rs5000x Shocks with a Saavy 1.25 body lift and core bomb proof mml.

Or just do the body lift and mml with stock suspension if the stock suspension is functioning. That may be enough to clear 31’s (correct me if I’m wrong), it wouldn’t break the bank, you “shouldn’t” get any weird vibes etc., and it’s the first step towards a future tummy tuck.
I’ll probably just get the lift and put it on and see what happens, I’m running 31s right now but I don’t have much room for travel they’re pretty close to the fenders.
 
I’ll probably just get the lift and put it on and see what happens, I’m running 31s right now but I don’t have much room for travel they’re pretty close to the fenders.
Get a 2" lift (instead of a 2.5") and use a few washers to drop the t-case skid IF you get any vibes. If you need more clearance later on, get a 1.25" BL for under $100. This is my Jeep with just a BL and 31's. Stage 1 of my lift 3 years ago. $100 and you're done in an hour. Nothing else to mess with and no vibe issues.



RUBI BL (2) (2017_11_20 00_38_12 UTC).jpg
 
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Dang well I guess I’ll do the transfer case drop and run that till I can get SYE and adjustable control arms
Hey, it’s worth trying the 1” MML. I did the exact same thing with the exact same springs over 3 years ago. Added the 2.5” OME And MML with 31’s. No BL at the time. I just raised the fan shroud 1”. Had to trim under the radiator hose. About a year and a hal later I did the BL, TCase shifter, and went to 33’s. Lowered the shroud back down. Ran that for a long time. Finally did the TT this year, getting the CA’s, SYE, and DC. I will admit that the drivetrain did smooth out when I got the SYE and DC. I had not noticed much vibe, but I could tell then I had minor vibes before.
 
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I’ll probably just get the lift and put it on and see what happens, I’m running 31s right now but I don’t have much room for travel they’re pretty close to the fenders.

There are many ways to go about it for sure and that’s one of them. If you plan to do the tummy tuck at any point you’ll need the body lift. If you have a 2.5” lift with 1.25” body lift then you’ll probably want 33” tires too. If that’s the plan then the lift is a great idea. If the plan is to stay 31” then you may not need that much of a lift and can save $ and potential vibration headaches by just doing the BL and or smaller (cheaper) lift.

I’m doing the 2.5 + 1.25 BL and going to run 33’s with a full TT. I’ll be getting all the control arms, SYE, driveshaft, etc.

The other options I found were:

H&R springs (more or less 1” lift)
Pro comp 2” springs
OME 2.5” springs

All can be ran with a BL/MML and set you up for a tummy tuck. Then, after doing the tuck, if you ever want to run bigger tires it’s relatively easy to swap a bigger suspension lift since you already have everything to make any adjustments to alleviate vibration issues. (Note: It’s highly likely you’ll need to upgrade gearing and axles for bigger tires too.)
 
There are many ways to go about it for sure and that’s one of them. If you plan to do the tummy tuck at any point you’ll need the body lift. If you have a 2.5” lift with 1.25” body lift then you’ll probably want 33” tires too. If that’s the plan then the lift is a great idea. If the plan is to stay 31” then you may not need that much of a lift and can save $ and potential vibration headaches by just doing the BL and or smaller (cheaper) lift.

I’m doing the 2.5 + 1.25 BL and going to run 33’s with a full TT. I’ll be getting all the control arms, SYE, driveshaft, etc.

The other options I found were:

H&R springs (more or less 1” lift)
Pro comp 2” springs
OME 2.5” springs

All can be ran with a BL/MML and set you up for a tummy tuck. Then, after doing the tuck, if you ever want to run bigger tires it’s relatively easy to swap a bigger suspension lift since you already have everything to make any adjustments to alleviate vibration issues. (Note: It’s highly likely you’ll need to upgrade gearing and axles for bigger tires too.)
Yea I’m just wanting so say on 31s for now I don’t really want to regear yet. I also want to do the 5.9 or 5.2 magnum swap, so when I do that I’ll end up going ahead and put a 8.8 in the rear and regear. I just don’t want too much on the ol 2.5