Looking at some highline front fenders rather than tube fenders for more travel. Jeep currently has a 2” Teraflex lift with a Teraflex 1” body lift and 3/4” leveling puck up front. Trying to keep it “lcg” of some sort. Yes I know how to set the Jeep up for 35s axle and steering wise. I am getting my 35” toyo open country mt’s on in 3 days and will be rolling around on stock fenders until I decide. So my question is what your experience and which highlines should I look at? I have a welder and am competent in that area so I will be installing myself and am open to diy kits also
Questions about 35s highline fenders and LCG build
- Thread starter Kaden02Tj
- Start date
My only opinion is on looks. I have the Genright 4" aluminum hi lines up front and really like them. I had the non hi lines on 35's and had clearance issues on 37's.
It is major surgery. I had it done and lots of stuff under the hood had to be re-arranged, new intake, cut the hood etc.
It is major surgery. I had it done and lots of stuff under the hood had to be re-arranged, new intake, cut the hood etc.
L0jik
TJ Enthusiast
Very good looking jeep! Do you have any pictures of it at normal ride height?
I currently have a 2 inch BDS lift, no body lift, and home built high line fenders with 35s. After 4 years of it, I am changing to stock fenders, 4 inch springs( probably Currie) and a 1.25 body lift.
It may be possible to get enough controlled wheel travel with a 2 inch set of springs, but it seems 6 up/6 droop is fairly easy with a set of currie springs and outboard rear shocks. Probably 11 inches in the front from what I have read.
The 2 inch lift/ highline setup works ok on the road, but I am constantly getting hung up while offroad. My gas tank will go up at least 3 inches with the extra 2 suspension/ body lift. I can tuck my skid plate more after the body lift also.
The 4 inch suspension with a 1.25 body seems to be the standard with 35s for a reason.
It may be possible to get enough controlled wheel travel with a 2 inch set of springs, but it seems 6 up/6 droop is fairly easy with a set of currie springs and outboard rear shocks. Probably 11 inches in the front from what I have read.
The 2 inch lift/ highline setup works ok on the road, but I am constantly getting hung up while offroad. My gas tank will go up at least 3 inches with the extra 2 suspension/ body lift. I can tuck my skid plate more after the body lift also.
The 4 inch suspension with a 1.25 body seems to be the standard with 35s for a reason.
The theme seems to be 37+ and coil overs. Is there any advantage with 35s and smooth body shocks? Or, would it be a waste of time and effort?
35's with 12" coil overs. It all depends on the effort you want to spend dialing it in and getting the uptravel you want. Bottom pic shows that we would have had to limit uptravel with stock height fenders to clear under articulation. That is all with stock Rubicon axles.
Big difference. Was the axle pushed forward at all? I thought the GR fenders retained the factory ABS tray.
Don't know. I really don't pay that much attention to the numbers when I am building something. I see a problem, I work through it and when I'm done, all I care about is that the problem is solved. I do know they don't retain the factory inner fender braces therefore the ABS tray goes as well.
I know that the 4” and 1” body is normal for 35s but since I have the small lift figured I’d try and do something different. I will eventually do a savvy gts, and a tummy tuck when I get a Adams driveshaft and sye. And I have good angles in the front and rear for sliding/going up ledges with my bumpers so I’m not to worried about that. I was possibly looking a lot later down the road at building some shock towers on the frame and cutting into the tub for some coil overs but until then I’ll stick with them small lift on highlines... just looking for what most people like in the highline fender game