LJ Rubicon purchase advice

Also throwing in Hennessy Performance
I use the Hennessy Performance and it works wonders during these F'd up times.
Hennessy.jpg
 
If you want a good deal on an LJ, you might want to consider finding one out of your area. Buy a 1 way airline ticket and drive home. I had to travel through 3 states to pickup mine.

If you're not willing to travel a bit, you either have to wait, or pay unreasonable dealer prices.
 
What are peoples thoughts on values of TJ Unlimited (non Rubicon) vs. TJ Rubicon going forward?

I’m guessing more TJRs were made?

I guess it depends on what you plan to use it for. I have a TJ Unlimited non Rubicon. It's great for my wife and I to take the dogs for a ride on forestry roads, and climb a few power lines. I don't see myself wheeling on the Rubicon Trail.

When I bought mine (2018), there were 4-5 LJ's, both Rubicon and non Rubicon, available within a 4 hour radius. I bought the one that I thought was the best condition. At that time, the Rubicon version added $2-3000 to the price.
 
What are peoples thoughts on values of TJ Unlimited (non Rubicon) vs. TJ Rubicon going forward?

I’m guessing more TJRs were made?

If you have 2 Jeeps, exactly the same. One is a Rubicon, the other isn't. Sure, the Rubi is better because it has lockers, front Dana 44 (vs Dana 30) and the lower 241 transfer case. Though that's not going to be your situation.

When I bought my LJ, it had lockers front and rear (ARB), also had the 241 TC. Though the front was a HP30, so not a Dana 44. I did replace the HP30 with a Currie 44. Then replaced the rear with a Currie 60. So now mine is more built than a Rubicon. Aftermarket ARB (and most other lockers) are better than the OEM.

The lockers and lower TC really only help if you're wheeling and need the lower crawl ratio. If you're only doing easy trails, or not wheeling much, those upgrades don't matter.
 
I’m not asking about the different options and capabilities between models. More so wondering the difference in price between the different packages in terms of collectibility.
 
I’m about to pull the trigger on a nice LJ rubicon. Has been inspected by a mechanic I trust. Approximately 90k miles, Super clean, bone stock, clean title and not a spec of rust anywhere. I’m in NC. Asking price is $21,000. This is well above KBB but with Covid and the used car market so hot I don’t know if this is a fair price. Thoughts?

The price is a little steep but I think there is much value in (1) bone stock-ism, (2) being 100% rust-free (if it's true), and (3) in it being local to you. Yeah, yeah, yeah, one can fly somewhere and drive a Jeep home, but what if the Jeep sucks and you don't want it? Take than money spent (wasted) on the trip out of your Jeep fund. What if you do buy it? Now you can tack the flight, your gas, your time, fast food, and motel bill(s) onto the price of that Jeep.

It also depends upon what you want to do with the Jeep. If you want to seriously mod and wheel the Jeep, it's probably better to start with "just" an LJ, not the Rubicon. If you don't want to go crazy off road and with the mods, than I'd do the LJR. Having the hardtop already adds value to this one as well. But as others noted, if you wait a bit, the time after Thanksgiving and before the end of March is the best time to be a buyer. That being said, in the search for my LJs, I found that a handful of the local rigs that I thought were way too expensive ended up selling fairly quickly.

Depending upon who the seller is and the situation, AND how much you actually want this specific Jeep, I might consider offering $17K and seeing what happens. It would be nice to get it for less, but I probably wouldn't sell it for that price if it were mine and as described/expected.
 
I seem to see about a 20% increase for a LWB versus a SWB TJ’s then another 20% for the Rubicon package.
This sounds about right.

If you're just planning to 'collect' it and store it in a garage, sure the Rubi is worth more. If you're buying an LJ to use it, then it's only worth it if you are going to keep those original Rubi parts in it.

I'd say find an LJ first. Then you can decide if it's worth passing up an LJ that has better aftermarket parts with lockers so you can find one that has a sticker on it.

Figure an original Rubi Dana 44 in good condition is worth about $1500 tops.

Aftermarket Currie 44 is around $5000

Rubi 241 TC goes for around $1000 - $1500 or so.

An Atlas TC is around $5000.

Prices don't include labor. OEM assumes you can find them.
 
An 05' LJ with under 100,000 miles just sold nearby for $12,000. I almost bought one, but I think they look strange unless they're lifted on 35s. The top was ripped and the seller wouldn't drop the price to cover buying a new top. He was asking $11,000 and I passed.
 
If you’re referring to a silver LJR in Martinsville, VA, I drove up from NC to see it. The frame was awful...extremely rusty...to the point that I could peel large chunks of what used to be steel off it. Engine lacked any pickup (even for a Jeep), oil and transmission fluid leaks. The carpet was soaked with floorboards partially rusted. It was advertised for just over $13k. I wouldn’t have paid $10k for it. I don’t see it in autotrader anymore so it must have sold.
 
What's it worth? Depends on what the buyer is looking for.

If the buyer just wants a Jeep, An LJR isn't worth much premium over a TJ Sport. Because any Jeep will do.

If the buyer wants an LJR, a clean, rust-free LJR is worth whatever the seller is asking. To pass up something that fits one's desire so specifically because it's priced 10% over what someone else says it's worth is foolish. But, I tend to agree with several of the others- if you're just looking for an LJ, and it doesn't have to be a R, this one is a little high.


I bought my '05 LJR over 6 years ago and paid what seemed like a premium at the time- because it was exactly what I wanted. Turns out it's just about kept up with inflation.
 
I would take a LJ Rubicon over a JLR any day. $21k seems a bit high but getting a Jeep that hasn’t been abused is a plus. I wouldn’t go for an automatic transmission though. I would pass on this even at $15k. In fact, I already passed on one because of the auto trans. Good luck, brother!
Just curious what you don’t like about the auto transmission?