Zone 4.25" Combo Lift Questions

ngreene9

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Sep 28, 2019
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42
Location
Connecticut
Hey Guys,

I just wanted to hear people's experience with the Zone 4.25 Combo Lift. I am thinking about going this route, as I am hearing a lot of positive feedback on here about this lift.

I just had a few questions specifically regarding this lift:

1) Can I use my factory control arms? Is there any harm in doing this?
2) Do I need to get an adjustable track bar?
3) Will I need a SYE?

Thanks for the feedback.
 
It’s a good entry level lift. I’ve been very happy with my 3” (no body lift) Zone. You can keep your stock control arms too. They’re actually a lot better than some people credit them for. SYE, you might need. However, since you’re adding the body lift, it might not be necessary. I certainly had to get SYE. It’s was the correct way, in my circumstance, to really gain the best results from the lift.
Lastly, you will need an adjustable trackbar. Don’t skip on that. I highly recommend a JKS (forgot the model number) but it’s been an excellent addition to my lift, People will likely recommend a MetalCloak TB. I personally prefer a rubber joint over a heim, due to the salty roads. Plus, less noise.

Hope I was of help. Don’t forget to post pictures once you get it lifted.

Best of wishes!
R
 
It’s a good entry level lift. I’ve been very happy with my 3” (no body lift) Zone. You can keep your stock control arms too. They’re actually a lot better than some people credit them for. SYE, you might need. However, since you’re adding the body lift, it might not be necessary. I certainly had to get SYE. It’s was the correct way, in my circumstance, to really gain the best results from the lift.
Lastly, you will need an adjustable trackbar. Don’t skip on that. I highly recommend a JKS (forgot the model number) but it’s been an excellent addition to my lift, People will likely recommend a MetalCloak TB. I personally prefer a rubber joint over a heim, due to the salty roads. Plus, less noise.

Hope I was of help. Don’t forget to post pictures once you get it lifted.

Best of wishes!
R
Thanks for this input. I'm glad to hear that I can keep all my stock control arms. That saves a lot of work and a lot of money.

I wish that there was a better way of knowing whether I will need a SYE as compared to just seeing how the Jeep reacts to the lift. I would like to just do it all at once as compared to do it piece by piece! But of course, I'm gathering that there is no harm in doing this just because.
 
I'd rate it as being an "okay" entry level lift. If you're plan is to build a super capable rock crawler, I'd avoid it. If you're mostly sticking to the streets with some occasional off-roading, then it would be a good choice.

You'll ideally need adjustable control arms, a SYE, a CV driveshaft, and at least an angled track bar bracket for the rear.

Can you keep your factory control arms? Yes

However, at 3" of suspension lift you don't really want to do that for a variety of reasons. It all just depends on how cheap you want to be and whether you want to do it right or half ass it (in my opinion).
 
I'd rate it as being an "okay" entry level lift. If you're plan is to build a super capable rock crawler, I'd avoid it. If you're mostly sticking to the streets with some occasional off-roading, then it would be a good choice.

You'll ideally need adjustable control arms, a SYE, a CV driveshaft, and at least an angled track bar bracket for the rear.

Can you keep your factory control arms? Yes

However, at 3" of suspension lift you don't really want to do that for a variety of reasons. It all just depends on how cheap you want to be and whether you want to do it right or half ass it (in my opinion).
I don't intend to build a super capable rig. I'll be sticking mostly to the streets, and some very occasional off-road.

Would you still suggest the adjustable arms even if I'm mostly on-road? What is the harm to sticking to stock?
 
I just had mine delivered last night, it seems like the best in the price range after my research. I plan on keeping my stock control arms, but will replace them eventually (probably currie double adjustable). I am also getting the jks track bar with rs5000x shocks. I am hoping the included motor mount lift is enough to prevent vibrations, I already have a transfer case drop but I want to get rid of it.

I do not do any super serious off-roading, I have had trouble finding good trails near me. I see you also live in Connecticut, so you must know this struggle as well lol
 
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Buy it without shocks and get the Rancho RS5000X shocks. I've run this lift on several of my Jeeps. It can get you just as far as more expensive lifts IF you have the driving skills. Nothing is more satisfying. Well, maybe driving around a stuck Hummer on the trails with a stock TJ.:cool:

p.s. I grew up in Enfield CT.
 
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I don't intend to build a super capable rig. I'll be sticking mostly to the streets, and some very occasional off-road.

Would you still suggest the adjustable arms even if I'm mostly on-road? What is the harm to sticking to stock?

I agree with buying Rancho shocks, as suggested by @TheBoogieman My kit came with the basic white hydro Zone shocks, which were fine. My Jeep drove better than stock after lifting it. And note that I had newer stock shocks on my TJ before I switched to the lift kit. Now, a few years later, I need new shocks. I plan on installing the Rancho RS5000X.

As for control arms; if you have no need for a SYE (as ‘some’ Jeeps are ok after a lift install) you won’t have any problems with stock arms. I daily drove mine over 100 miles a day for more than a year with no issues, no complaints. Truly drives fantastic. One caveat, though; I replaced all of the arms with new OE style Crown arms. I did however find that the powder coating on them sucks. To mitigate that, I sprayed my underside with Fluid Film. And I highly recommend you do the same since you live in CT.
 
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I really need to write a full review on the zone lift at this point.
Here is my 2 cents. If you are trying to build for 33 inch tires on a budget it works great.
Let’s start with the body lift. It’s plastic. I have 0 issues with it. Some people say buy a savvy aluminum lift. I don’t feel the need to do it.

Now the transfer case linkage. It comes with a bracket to reposition the factory bracket. I personally have broken the factory linkage on both of my previous jeeps so I installed a savvy shift cable. I highly suggest it.

The front track bar. The kit has you drill a hole and reposition the front track bar. Don’t do this. Get a aftermarket front adjustable track bar.

The bump stop extensions. They extend the factory bump stops up top. I am still running this on my Jeep but the spring will contact the cups on the bump stop when you do this. The proper way to bump stop is to install them on the pad on the axle.

The factory control arms. They work just fine. Keep in mind that you will not be able to adjust angles on the pinion with this. If the drive shaft u joints are not correct you can add some washers in between the skid and the frame to lower the skid a little bit to dial it in. It’s no big deal.
After having the lift on for a year I did end up installing Currie adjustable control arms which definitely increased the travel. I have way more droop now. This is something you can do down the road.
The springs. They are perfectly fine. No issues after 2 years of ownership. If you want more lift later, you can swap them for 4 inch springs.
The sway bar extensions. No issues to speak of. I can easily unbolt them and tuck them up with zip ties for off-roading.
The rear track bar relocation bracket. I had no issues with. I also modified it when I installed the sye and did a tummy tuck to make it work because I had to roll the axle quite a bit to get the proper pinion angle. I’ll add a picture of that.
I would also recommend longer brake lines. Order some from a yj on rock auto.
I also recommend black magic brakes up front.
In summary it is a good basic kit that is cheap and can get you onto 33 inch tires and easily be upgraded down the road for better performance. Welcome to the rabbit hole!

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I don't intend to build a super capable rig. I'll be sticking mostly to the streets, and some very occasional off-road.

Would you still suggest the adjustable arms even if I'm mostly on-road? What is the harm to sticking to stock?
The harm in sticking to stock is you won’t be able to set your wheelbase or dial in pinion or caster angles. If you’re just sticking to the street you’ll probably be fine. If it was me I would run adjustable control arms, but that’s just me.
 
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I have the Zone 4.25 and its been a good lift but honestly after 3 year I think the coils are the only thing I have left from it but mostly because I went belly up.

When I installed I went with an adjustable front track bar right away. Most shops will recommend that and even Zone themselves kind of do. I believe they don't include one just to keep the cost down. Get the JKS.

I also thought it drove ok but after hearing people saying the Rancho 5000x were so awesome I decided to try them out. They are awesome. The jeep handling on/off road improved hugely.

I didn't like that the kit comes with replacement front swaybar links and they didn't go the extra $50 to make them disconnects.

I run mine with 35s but run a .75 spacer upfront with a bit of trimming.
 
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Buy it without shocks and get the Rancho RS5000X shocks. I've run this lift on several of my Jeeps. It can get you just as far as more expensive lifts IF you have the driving skills. Nothing is more satisfying. Well, maybe driving around a stuck Hummer on the trails with a stock TJ.:cool:

p.s. I grew up in Enfield CT.
My issue with entry-level lift kits is not that it won't get you over an obstacle. My issue is the rubber bushings don't last when subjected to repeatedly flexing to the max. Johnny Joints or other similar joints last for years if maintained. Occasionally serious trails will probably be ok with entry-level bushings.

Putting 4" springs on a TJ will require either longer LCAs like most entry-level kits or adjustable UCAs to correct pinion angle.
 
I ran for a year with the factory control arms on this lift and I was able to set it up without drive line vibrations. when I took the control arms out they were still in good shape. It also performed perfectly well on some difficult trails at hidden falls.
Is it doable? Yes
Did I put aftermarket arms in later? Yes.
But that is also because I knew I was going to do a sye and a tummy tuck. It was fully worth the investment.
 
My issue is the rubber bushings don't last when subjected to repeatedly flexing to the max. Johnny Joints or other similar joints last for years if maintained.
Putting 4" springs on a TJ will require either longer LCAs like most entry-level kits or adjustable UCAs to correct pinion angle.
Those rubber bushings last as long as anything else on the market, when exposed to constant mud. Not to mention that stock control arms cost less than replacing one aftermarket bushing.
Good thing the Zone 4.25" combo lift only has 3" springs then.:rolleyes:

p.s. People can spend/waste their money any way they want and it still won't make up for driver skill. I learned that racing motocross. I don't give a rat's ass what other people do with their Jeeps. It effects my life in no way.
 
I really need to write a full review on the zone lift at this point.
Here is my 2 cents. If you are trying to build for 33 inch tires on a budget it works great.
Let’s start with the body lift. It’s plastic. I have 0 issues with it. Some people say buy a savvy aluminum lift. I don’t feel the need to do it.

Now the transfer case linkage. It comes with a bracket to reposition the factory bracket. I personally have broken the factory linkage on both of my previous jeeps so I installed a savvy shift cable. I highly suggest it.

The front track bar. The kit has you drill a hole and reposition the front track bar. Don’t do this. Get a aftermarket front adjustable track bar.

The bump stop extensions. They extend the factory bump stops up top. I am still running this on my Jeep but the spring will contact the cups on the bump stop when you do this. The proper way to bump stop is to install them on the pad on the axle.

The factory control arms. They work just fine. Keep in mind that you will not be able to adjust angles on the pinion with this. If the drive shaft u joints are not correct you can add some washers in between the skid and the frame to lower the skid a little bit to dial it in. It’s no big deal.
After having the lift on for a year I did end up installing Currie adjustable control arms which definitely increased the travel. I have way more droop now. This is something you can do down the road.
The springs. They are perfectly fine. No issues after 2 years of ownership. If you want more lift later, you can swap them for 4 inch springs.
The sway bar extensions. No issues to speak of. I can easily unbolt them and tuck them up with zip ties for off-roading.
The rear track bar relocation bracket. I had no issues with. I also modified it when I installed the sye and did a tummy tuck to make it work because I had to roll the axle quite a bit to get the proper pinion angle. I’ll add a picture of that.
I would also recommend longer brake lines. Order some from a yj on rock auto.
I also recommend black magic brakes up front.
In summary it is a good basic kit that is cheap and can get you onto 33 inch tires and easily be upgraded down the road for better performance. Welcome to the rabbit hole!

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I noticed this about the bump stop extensions when reading their install instructions, and I thought it seemed wrong. Should I just use the included extensions but out them on the bottom, or buy some hockey pucks? I'm also debating getting the shavvy shifter cable, probably a better idea to get it now so I can install it all at once instead of down the line
 
Those rubber bushings last as long as anything else on the market, when exposed to constant mud. Not to mention that stock control arms cost less than replacing one aftermarket bushing.
Good thing the Zone 4.25" combo lift only has 3" springs then.:rolleyes:

p.s. People can spend/waste their money any way they want and it still won't make up for driver skill. I learned that racing motocross. I don't give a rat's ass what other people do with their Jeeps. It effects my life in no way.

Still needs pinion angle correction.
 
The pinion angle correction comes from the motor mount lift. Rather than dropping the skid plate that most lifts do, the zone kit raises the engine to try and correct it. I still had to add about 1/4 inch of washers in between the skid plate and the frame to drop it slightly
 
I noticed this about the bump stop extensions when reading their install instructions, and I thought it seemed wrong. Should I just use the included extensions but out them on the bottom, or buy some hockey pucks? I'm also debating getting the shavvy shifter cable, probably a better idea to get it now so I can install it all at once instead of down the line
The bumpstops for the rear that are in the kit are not a issue. The front ones are. I don’t see why you couldn’t fabricate some from hockey pucks. Kits are available
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9122F
 
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