Dana 44 Pinion Seal

Kerry

Kerry

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Joined
Jun 27, 2019
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75
Location
New Zealand
Before I take the old seal out, can someone help me out and tell me if this is the correct replacement part? The inner diameter looks ok, but it does not appear to have the outer lip like the original seal so I'm a bit hesitant...
This is an 03-06 TJ.
Thanks in advance

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Thanks, from what I found in another thread there seem to be 2 types of seal, one that has a flush finish kind of dust seal, and one without. All of the U-tube vids I have seen use flush finish type.
Just about every trip we do here involves water, so I will 'upgrade' the one I have I think..
 
Is this the right seal for the Dana 30 pinion? I want the one that has the outer lip so I can tap it in flush.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078UAG8G/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Do I have to use a new nut and crush sleeve? Some people say yes, others no. Those who say no say you can mark the old nut and pinion and yoke and count the number of threads showing and just return the original nut to that position to maintain the pre-load. Thoughts?
 
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JMT said:
Do I have to use a new nut and crush sleeve? Some people say yes, others no. Those who say no say you can mark the old nut and pinion and yoke and count the number of threads showing and just return the original nut to that position to maintain the pre-load. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Many have been done with the “reuse” method without problems. Of course it’s not the correct way. I’ve done it on personal rigs.
 
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JMT said:
Is this the right seal for the Dana 30 pinion? I want the one that has the outer lip so I can tap it in flush.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0078UAG8G/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Do I have to use a new nut and crush sleeve? Some people say yes, others no. Those who say no say you can mark the old nut and pinion and yoke and count the number of threads showing and just return the original nut to that position to maintain the pre-load. Thoughts?
Click to expand...
As @Kid Mechanic said, the proper way is to replace the crush sleeve, seal and nut. That said, I've done several on my own Jeeps, where only the seal and nut were replaced, and none had any issues. Why the new nut? These are a one time use and I'd hate to have the nut back off later (this I have seen), possibly taking out the bearings, or worse.

If you go this route just be advised that carefully marking the pinion and nut is only part of the equation. When you get the new nut, be sure to measure the height of both it and the old nut. In the few I've done I didn't see any differences, but I always got the new nut from the dealer and checked for consistency. You'll also need to use the marking on the old nut as a reference on the new one.

Also, to be 100% transparent, the ultimate risk to not replacing the crush sleeve is you overtighten, resulting in a gear set failure down the road. All that said, I'm not advocating for someone else to do this, just sharing that I've done it personally. In the end, it's your risk, your call!
 
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Actually..... Your dana 44 uses shims and not a crush sleeve. Just replace the seal install a new pinion nut and torque it to 160-200 ft lbs.

Also, not to start a pissing match, but there is absolutely no reason to pull apart a diif and replace the crush collar when doing a pinion seal. I do not know of any vehicle manufacturer that recommends doing so.
There is a specific procedure to do it. It includes measuring preload with an inch lb torque wrench, counting exposed pinion threads prior to removing the seal.
I've done it a hundred of times.
 
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williambmac said:
Actually..... Your dana 44 uses shims and not a crush sleeve. Just replace the seal install a new pinion nut and torque it to 160-200 ft lbs.

Also, not to start a pissing match, but there is absolutely no reason to pull apart a diif and replace the crush collar when doing a pinion seal. I do not know of any vehicle manufacturer that recommends doing so.
There is a specific procedure to do it. It includes measuring preload with an inch lb torque wrench, counting exposed pinion threads prior to removing the seal.
I've done it hundreds of times.
Click to expand...
We've got a little bit of both going on in this thread. The OP asked about a 44, but @JMT was specifically asking about the 30.
 
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Irun said:
We've got a little bit of both going on in this thread. The OP asked about a 44, but @JMT was specifically asking about the 30.
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I didn't realize the OP was 5 months ago. For @JMT and his dana 30, there is no reason to replace the crush sleeve when just doing a pinion seal. A new seal and pinion nut are all thats needed. @JMT go to the resource section of the forum and follow the service manual procedure. It's easy-peazy.
 
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Irun said:
We've got a little bit of both going on in this thread. The OP asked about a 44, but @JMT was specifically asking about the 30.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the 44/30 mix up. I saw they used the same seal and assumed wrongly same procedure.
 
williambmac said:
I didn't realize the OP was 5 months ago. For @JMT and his dana 30, there is no reason to replace the crush sleeve when just doing a pinion seal. A new seal and pinion nut are all thats needed. @JMT go to the resource section of the forum and follow the service manual procedure. It's easy-peazy.
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I need a inch-lb dial indicator and the holding tools. Can I drive it for a few weeks till I get all this together?
 
JMT said:
I need a inch-lb dial indicator and the holding tools. Can I drive it for a few weeks till I get all this together?
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As long as you keep and eye on the fluid level and the seal isn't pissing out oil, I see no problem with driving it.

My front seal has been leaking for a couple of months. I'm just too lazy to change it right now. I drive 65 miles a day.
I just check it on the weekends.
 
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williambmac said:
As long as you keep and eye on the fluid level and the seal isn't pissing out oil, I see no problem with driving it.

My front seal has been leaking for a couple of months. I'm just too lazy to change it right now. I drive 65 miles a day.
I just check it on the weekends.
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Do I really have to have all those tools in the FSM? Or can I use big pipe wrenches and whatever else I can get my hands on? Before I do that I could check renting tools at the local auto parts store.
 
JMT said:
Do I really have to have all those tools in the FSM? Or can I use big pipe wrenches and whatever else I can get my hands on? Before I do that I could check renting tools at the local auto parts store.
Click to expand...
You are going to need the inch lb. and a standard 1/2 torque wrench, and the holding tool, unless you can figure a way to keep the yoke from turning. I've seen people use a pipe wrench and a 3ft pipe.
If you don't have the necessary tools, ask a trans shop what they would charge. It's usually like 1-1.5 hours labor to do the repair, which would be substantially less than the inve$tment required for the tools.
 
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williambmac said:
You are going to need the inch lb. and a standard 1/2 torque wrench, and the holding tool, unless you can figure a way to keep the yoke from turning. I've seen people use a pipe wrench and a 3ft pipe.
If you don't have the necessary tools, ask a trans shop what they would charge. It's usually like 1-1.5 hours labor to do the repair, which would be substantially less than the inve$tment required for the tools.
Click to expand...
Could I use a tool like this? I realize it's in degrees, but it is a torque indicator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2642863276...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
I put this tool in my Amazon buggy which will work with a Dana 30 so I can hold it while I remove and re-torque.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095SGS3FC/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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JMT said:
Could I use a tool like this? I realize it's in degrees, but it is a torque indicator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2642863276...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
I put this tool in my Amazon buggy which will work with a Dana 30 so I can hold it while I remove and re-torque.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095SGS3FC/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Click to expand...
The holding tool should work fine.

You DO NOT want that torque angle gauge. That is for torque to yield fasteners like head bolts.
 
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This site contains affiliate links for which Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum may be compensated.
williambmac said:
you can try something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SNICDJC/?tag=wranglerorg-20
But I prefer this style

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005EB9O9S/?tag=wranglerorg-20
It's more accurate. being a tech most of my shit is all SnapOn.

You can see if a local parts store has one to rent so you don't have to purchase one.
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I thought about the cheapo $20 one on Amazon you linked to, but concerned becaue I believe the socket for the pinion nut is 1 1/8", and the socket on the torque wrench is 1/4". I'd have to use an adapter or two, 1/4" step up to 3/8" step up to 1/2", and I'm not sure the reliability of the torque wrench at that point. Would you be concerned?

If I have to spend $160+ on a good one, I'd rather just someone else do it since I'll hardly ever need it elsewhere.
 
JMT said:
I thought about the cheapo $20 one on Amazon you linked to, but concerned becaue I believe the socket for the pinion nut is 1 1/8", and the socket on the torque wrench is 1/4". I'd have to use an adapter or two, 1/4" step up to 3/8" step up to 1/2", and I'm not sure the reliability of the torque wrench at that point. Would you be concerned?

If I have to spend $160+ on a good one, I'd rather just someone else do it since I'll hardly ever need it elsewhere.
Click to expand...
Thats why I said...... It's probably cheaper to take it to a Reputable trans shop.
It's really not a difficult task to do if you have access to the right tools.
 
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