Front axle u-joints question

Well I’m certainly all ears for other options, especially if it’s cheaper yet still high quality! Is there a specific brand I should look for if I go the route you detail?
Best quality is going to come from Revolution Gear & Axle. Give Ricky @Garza a call, his website is at www.4lowparts.com. He's a long-term dealer for RGA and he at least used to have a discount for forum members. There are two different shafts, one is imported and the other is the far more expensive USA made version. Their quality is similar, I'm not sure if the imported version is available yet. Ricky is a fellow Jeeper and really knows his stuff, his Wrangler is really well built.
 
Thanks for the reply! Yeah I guess you’re right about the u-joints, as long as the interiors are fine. What do you mean by, I’ve got ‘backlash’ and that it’s normal? Oops yeah I was trying to film a video quickly. I took another one today so I’ll throw the link below. It’s less shaky and I tried moving it in different directions for a better understanding.

And yeah that’s what I was talking over with my dad, it seems there’s a good amount of disassembling involved in replacing the front u-joints so I’ll have to plan a full day for that probably. Wheel bearings and hubs are newer(receipts from PO show they were upgraded about 2-3 years ago and don’t show signs of needing replacing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-hwejCwTapJwI_udsvVnuOTaz9f5fmYn/view?usp=drivesdk
I can't really tell if they're bad...

As i said if you're uncertain...get some Spicer u-joints and change them.

Many on here will spend your money for you and have you upgrading axles, engines and lions and tigers and bears
..oh my...

When all you want to do is put in new u-joints.

Really simple.

Remove tire/wheel
Pry on the caliper to back off pad tension against rotor
Remove brake caliper bolts
Remove brake caliper
Hang caliper with hook from spring
remove rotor
remove big axle nut
Remove 4 hub bolts
(You need a 12 or 13mm 12 point socket)
^^this is paramount^^
Dont even try using a 6 point and make sure 101 percent you've the proper size 12 pt. socket
Remove hub/wheel bearing
Pull axle shaft out

Replace u-joint

Reinstall in reverse.

When putting axle back in you want to lift it a little bit (the inner shaft) so it doesn't harm the seal. (Don't stress, you'll be ok)

Repeat on other side

Good luck!!
 
I can't really tell if they're bad...

As i said if you're uncertain...get some Spicer u-joints and change them.

Many on here will spend your money for you and have you upgrading axles, engines and lions and tigers and bears
..oh my...

When all you want to do is put in new u-joints.

Really simple.

Remove tire/wheel
Pry on the caliper to back off pad tension against rotor
Remove brake caliper bolts
Remove brake caliper
Hang caliper with hook from spring
remove rotor
remove big axle nut
Remove 4 hub bolts
(You need a 12 or 13mm 12 point socket)
^^this is paramount^^
Dont even try using a 6 point and make sure 101 percent you've the proper size 12 pt. socket
Remove hub/wheel bearing
Pull axle shaft out

Replace u-joint

Reinstall in reverse.

When putting axle back in you want to lift it a little bit (the inner shaft) so it doesn't harm the seal. (Don't stress, you'll be ok)

Repeat on other side

Good luck!!
Wow thank you for the detailed write up, that helps a ton!! Makes it seem like a much more reasonable job than I thought. But yeah I see what you’re saying. I think I’ll do some more investigation into my u-joints and go from there. If they aren’t causing issues right now I’m going to try waiting a month or two
 
Best quality is going to come from Revolution Gear & Axle. Give Ricky @Garza a call, his website is at www.4lowparts.com. He's a long-term dealer for RGA and he at least used to have a discount for forum members. There are two different shafts, one is imported and the other is the far more expensive USA made version. Their quality is similar, I'm not sure if the imported version is available yet. Ricky is a fellow Jeeper and really knows his stuff, his Wrangler is really well built.
Awesome thanks for the info Jerry! I’ll look into that and price things out
 
Backlash is backlash but that would all be inside the differental. In the video the tire, if off the ground, should be moving back and forth with the axle stub/yoke/universal joint. If the tire is on the ground none of that should have moved without the whole Jeep moving.

Maybe I'm not seeing that video right but I think you may have bigger issues.
 
Was the video taken with the wheel/tire off the ground? Were the lug nuts removed? While I agree that backlash is normal, the Axle shafts should not spin at all if the wheels are planted.
 
Backlash is backlash but that would all be inside the differental. In the video the tire, if off the ground, should be moving back and forth with the axle stub/yoke/universal joint. If the tire is on the ground none of that should have moved without the whole Jeep moving.

Maybe I'm not seeing that video right but I think you may have bigger issues.
Gotcha okay. Thanks for the clarification. And yeah, in the video the tire is on the ground and no bolts are loosened. If, like you say, there should be no movement with the tire on the ground, yet there is, what would that indicate as an issue?
 
Was the video taken with the wheel/tire off the ground? Were the lug nuts removed? While I agree that backlash is normal, the Axle shafts should not spin at all if the wheels are planted.
Yeah I just replied to another guy, the tire is on the ground in the video with lug nuts still on and tight. So if there shouldn’t be movement in that case, but there is, what may be the cause?
 
Yeah I just replied to another guy, the tire is on the ground in the video with lug nuts still on and tight. So if there shouldn’t be movement in that case, but there is, what may be the cause?
What axles are those? they look wider than TJ Dana 44's. They might have locking hubs.
 
For anyone that didn't notice, he is not running stock axles. Look at the ball joints, they are installed in the knuckles and bolted to the axle C's. This is an older axle probably from a Wagoneer or similar and I bet it has locking hubs, hence why the axle shafts move with the wheels planted (illustrating the R&P backlash).
 
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What axles are those? they look wider than TJ Dana 44's. They might have locking hubs.
Yeah so it’s a TJ sport, with both axles being transplanted Dana 44’s(bought it like that). I’m not sure what type the front one is, but I’ve been told the rear is a Chevy 8-bolt Dana 44. The front has a Aussie locker and warn locking hubs. Is that what you’re referring to?
 
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For anyone that didn't notice, he is not running stock axles. Look at the ball joints, they are installed in the knuckles and bolted to the axle C's. This is an older axle probably from a Wagoneer or similar and I bet it has locking hubs, hence why the axle shafts move with the wheels planted (illustrating the R&P backlash).
Yeah so they aren’t stock axles, both are transplanted Dana 44’s, I’m unsure of the brand of the front one but am almost positive the rear is a Chevy Dana 44. The front has a Aussie locker and warn locking hubs. How would that affect the movement I see?
 
yeah, Run it. Assuming your locking hubs are "unlocked" then you're good.
 
Yeah so they aren’t stock axles, both are transplanted Dana 44’s, I’m unsure of the brand of the front one but am almost positive the rear is a Chevy Dana 44. The front has a Aussie locker and warn locking hubs. How would that affect the movement I see?
Yup, if your hubs were unlocked in the video, that is exactly why they were able to rotate a small bit, due to the backlash of the gears in the diff. I see no issues.

If the hubs are unlocked, then that means the axle shafts can move freely, but they are still limited by the gears meshing in the diff, and the gears are meant to have a bit of play between the teeth (called backlash). The backlash is what is allowing the axle shafts to rotate back and forth a bit.

The axle shafts will actually sit there and not rotate at all when you drive because the hubs being unlocked means the wheels can't rotate the axle shafts. Which is also why when you put it in 4WD, you have to get out and lock the hubs, to engage power to the wheels.
 
Yup, if your hubs were unlocked in the video, that is exactly why they were able to rotate a small bit, due to the backlash of the gears in the diff. I see no issues.

If the hubs are unlocked, then that means the axle shafts can move freely, but they are still limited by the gears meshing in the diff, and the gears are meant to have a bit of play between the teeth (called backlash). The backlash is what is allowing the axle shafts to rotate back and forth a bit.

The axle shafts will actually sit there and not rotate at all when you drive because the hubs being unlocked means the wheels can't rotate the axle shafts. Which is also why when you put it in 4WD, you have to get out and lock the hubs, to engage power to the wheels.
Thanks for the detailed reply! And awesome, good to know. Yeah I just had a co-worker who does a bunch of mechanic stuff on the side check it out after work and pretty much said exactly what you just did. Other than surface rust he said everything else is normal and in fine condition, which is a load off my mind!(for now lol, still gonna upgrade the u-joints at some point, probably when I do my axle shafts if it can wait that long)
 
Thanks for the detailed reply! And awesome, good to know. Yeah I just had a co-worker who does a bunch of mechanic stuff on the side check it out after work and pretty much said exactly what you just did. Other than surface rust he said everything else is normal and in fine condition, which is a load off my mind!(for now lol, still gonna upgrade the u-joints at some point, probably when I do my axle shafts if it can wait that long)
Cool, you should be set a while. One thing you need to figure out is what axles those actually are before you try to buy shafts for them. Once you learn the application you can figure out if aftermarket upgrades exist or if you need to order custom or what. Definitely don't buy any TJ axle kits, those will do you no good.
 
Cool, you should be set a while. One thing you need to figure out is what axles those actually are before you try to buy shafts for them. Once you learn the application you can figure out if aftermarket upgrades exist or if you need to order custom or what. Definitely don't buy any TJ axle kits, those will do you no good.
Most definitely. I actually just went outside to find any markings I could on both axles. Didn’t find much lol. I’ll attach the pics I took, maybe someone here could identify them.

The front axle(pic of the dif cover) has ‘Dana’, 39015, 263-9, REV 8, and 11-22-08 stamped on it. And the rear, the only markings I could find at all was on the axle tube(rear has a aftermarket dif cover on it so no markings there). ‘AAKKH3074C260-2’ is tha marking on the rear axle

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Most definitely. I actually just went outside to find any markings I could on both axles. Didn’t find much lol. I’ll attach the pics I took, maybe someone here could identify them.

The front axle(pic of the dif cover) has ‘Dana’, 39015, 263-9, REV 8, and 11-22-08 stamped on it. And the rear, the only markings I could find at all was on the axle tube(rear has a aftermarket dif cover on it so no markings there). ‘AAKKH3074C260-2’ is tha marking on the rear axle

View attachment 257862

View attachment 257863
I'm gathering nothing from those numbers. Maybe better pictures of the axles overall would help? What wheel bolt pattern is it? I bet it's 6 lug something.
 
I'm gathering nothing from those numbers. Maybe better pictures of the axles overall would help? What wheel bolt pattern is it? I bet it's 6 lug something.
Damn. Yeah just went out and took a bunch more, I’ll post em below. And yeah both axles are 6 lug.
first set of photos should be the front axle, the rest is the rear

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