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You said it happened before and after you replaced and balanced the tires so I discounted that possibility. Still, it seems an awful lot like unbalanced tires. Normally, alignment wouldn’t cause this.

If the double Cardan is going bad and causing a lot of vibration you should not even move the Jeep. That is why I say disconnect the drive shaft at the differential, and tie it up to the frame. Drive it around (in 2WD only!) and see if the vibration goes away. I think this is probably not the...

Death wobble. Rebuilding the double Cardan in the drive shaft takes maybe $100-$150 in parts. To be honest, it might be better to spend $369 and just put a new drive shaft on from Tom Woods. But I only suggest checking out the shaft because it’s failure can cause catastrophic damage to the...

If it is not DW and not tire balance, then maybe a bent wheel or axle shaft? I would also be suspicious of the drive shaft double Cardan going bad. If it is that you should take care of it right away. Tie up the drive shaft and see if it goes away.

https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/diy-u-joint-replacement

I have flat towed my TJ about 40k miles now. But…. I grease the centering balls often and at the first sign of any trouble I replace them. I worry as much about DW as I do about the shafts. I suspect that if DW were to occur I would feel it, but maybe not? Or maybe not until the TJ had torn...

Here is mine.

I can't really tell from the pictures but it does look like you have a dropped track bar frame mount. If you do, you also need a dropped Pitman arm to keep the drag link and track bar parallel. Most people would say you are better off with neither but I can't say. The stock TJ is identical to...

It looks like you have some sort of dropped frame side track bar mount. Do you also have a dropped Pitman arm?

On mine it had both.

There are clips on the inside. Just melting the plastic is not enough. You have to remove the clips.

“Electric Life”

If you are getting a clunk from the double Cardan in the front drive shaft you should take care of that right away. You risk having the drive shaft grenade the transfer case.

I have been somewhat surprised at how perfect everything has to be to prevent DW. Rod ends, bearings, bushings, ball joints, tire balance and tire condition. When I first had DW, re-balancing had no effect. A dry steering test told me nothing, everything appeared to be tight. In frustration, I...

I started to have what seemed like the beginnings of DW. Irregular road surface would kick off vibrations that sometimes grew larger but would stop when slowing down slightly. I had the tires (KO2s with about 30k miles time in service) rebalanced and that helped a bit, but the problem grew. For...

My Smittybilt bumpers are 9 years old and the powdercoat is still flawless. Admittedly, they have never been exposed to salt.

My truck camper (F350, diesel, long bed, Adventurer FB26) gets about 10.5 mpg. If I flat tow the TJ behind that it drops to about 10.0 mpg. I don’t think tire pressure will make any difference in my case.

I have a TJ Rubicon (so no SYE or transfer case drop needed) and a two inch lift. I had no vibes with this. Then I installed the Barnes skid plate and while I didn’t have vibes, I would get what seemed like bad clutch chatter on engagement. I then installed a DC shaft, rotated the pinion, etc...

For your front diff there is no difference between driving and flat towing. Either way the wheels are turning the diff rather than the diff turning the wheels.

I have flat towed for about 40k miles so far with no problems. My setup is very similar to Mr. Bills although my lights are wired in.