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Yeah, crappy eyes on my part.

Now that I zoomed in on it though I can see that might just be grinder marks on the frame?

I’m questioning this, it looks like the nutsert pulled through and the hole is rotted.

That’s normal for the steering stops. To adjust them you put washer(s) between the nut and the knuckle. You should be able to loosen them just by turning the bolt. Countersunk bolts are usually the go to for engine skids, I think any button head would suffer the same fate. You’d need to...

Don’t worry Mike, I got you.

I think your drag link is pushed in/flattened on the bend where the tie rod mounts. If it’s only rubbing on one side you could adjust your track bar a little bit but the axle shifts to the passenger side as the axle cycles upward so that’s not that abnormal. Other than the brake line, the...

Sounded like metal to me.

If I remember correctly on Spring Creek your tire was getting pretty involved with your fender. A touch of bumpstop wouldn’t hurt. Hockey pucks are cheap!

Suspension wise I think they are. I don’t think they’re producing any of the armor and bumpers except for the tummy tuck and I’m not sure if that’s original designs or not. All the fenders and other stuff are not on the OG Savvy site, those are on the new owner’s side.

There’s basically 2 Savvy’s now. The new owners use Rock Krawler springs and include a drop pitman arm and some weird looking track bar bracket. The OG Savvy is the original designs using Currie components. They operate as separate companies.

Agree on all points. Even if the A/C doesn’t come with a soft start I’d put one in, then get a 2k generator instead of 3+. You’ll be money ahead and it’s a huge jump in footprint and weight between a 2k and 3k generator. If you get a 12v fridge, plan on it using 50-90 amp hours a day...

How dare you objectify your pole like that!

I occasionally glance at them after a failure from not reading the directions.

I think it depends on the bearing to where exactly the clamshell can grab ahold, but it’s definitely designed to pull on the cage with the race installed to not damage it.

On the clamshell style pullers you need to leave the race on the bearing when pulling it off to not destroy the bearing and pull off the cage. Looks like a great build, looking forward to watching you progress.

I went to high school in Glen Ellyn, IL. Same deal, uphill both ways. School was on top of a hill, we were even called the Hilltoppers as our mascot. The mile and a half walk from the house was downhill 75% of the way then a climb up to the school.

My step daughter has the same truck and it pisses me off to no end every time I change the oil on it! Yet, every year for her birthday I continue to give her free oil changes for the year. I guess I’m a glutton for punishment.

Congrats! You’ll love the 6.7! I have a 110k trouble free miles with nothing but smiles on my 2020! Edit: if you do your own maintenance, you’ll want to give the engineer that designed it a hug. First truck I’ve owned where the oil filter isn’t located above something else and you can drain...

I have a good one that you can use for measurements if you don’t think it’ll ruin it and I can get back when you’re done.

Agree 100%, and I’m usually pretty neutral leaning toward the right but the President’s bullshit speech a few weeks ago blaming the tractor manufacturers for high prices because of emissions mandated by the government drove me up the wall. Stop blaming the manufacturers for meeting the demands...