Search results

Thank you Sir. Took out 0.003" pinion shim. Does this look too shallow now, or just right? Rear dana 44 as reminder, so we want to favor the drive side of the tooth, correct?

@hosejockey61 Drivers shim carrier- 0.124 Passenger shim carrier- 0.140 Pinion - factory under bearing + 0.006" under race. I added 0.006" to pinion depth. Looks too deep to me. Should I back off to 0.003" behind the inner race? Backlash at 0.009

If anyone on the forum is near Tahoe or Reno and wants a free set of black painted moabs. Let me know.

Thanks, they seem ok, but not sure if you can tell just looking at them. Races seem fine besides the scratching. Ill replace the races just to be extra careful. What do you think about cutting off and relocating the rear spring mounts while im in there? Worth doing? I am installing a savvy...

With the pitting or damage to the races I posted above, I was going to replace the races. Think I need to swap the bearings too?

Well we figured it out. Ran a pattern. Backlash - 0.007" Drivers side shim - 0.125 Passenger side shim - 0.135. Pinion shim - factory - nothing under race. Looks a bit shallow?

Ok so I think I have figured it out. The tabs on the magnetic part of the locker have tabs to keep it from spinning. They are hitting the axle housing too soon, and causing it to not eat properly.

I think bearings are the same parts. Worked on the front axle... I believe ARB uses different bearings.

Any issues with buying the spicer bearing kit 706032X? I can get it at summit locally.

Bearing race is correct 25523. Can't check bearing as the number faces in, but looks correct. Installed these races on the old carrier and old bearings, and it spins free and fast. Thinking the bearings are bad, or the carrier is bad. Hard to imagine the carrier is bad...

Been battling it all day. Something is causing it to sit at and angle or out of square, just not sure what. Could be? 1. Bad bearings? 2. Bent/not straight carrier? 3. Bent axle? All is fine until i tighten those passenger side bearing caps bolts, then it locks up.

At this point I have decided one of the carrier bearings in the kit from revolution is bad. When only that side bearing caps is tightened, and the other is loose, there is a lot of noise from the bearing, and the race is getting pitted.

@hosejockey61 So I took out the pinion completely. As soon as I tighten the bearing caps, the carrier is extremely hard to rotate. Does this mean my housing is potentially bent? Loosen the bearing caps and its spins and spins.

Alright so i removed all the carrier shims and the carrier is extremely tight once the bearing caps are tightened. Going to remove the pinion and see if the carrier alone is still tight and won't turn with no pinion and no carrier shims. At a bit of a loss on whats happening. I confirmed the...

So went back to the start after I noticed so much backlash if trying to rotate the pinion. As soon as I tighten the passenger side bearing caps the carrier gets very tight. But there is backlash at the pinion, almost too much I would guess.

Alright, so it seems to be something related to the carrier. The carrier is just binding, I went to move the pinion and there is a ton of backlash. All seems good until I tighten down the lower ring gear side bearing cap, then there is a ton of binding and carrier won't rotate easily so feels...

So, it seems I will need to create a lot of backlash. I think i forgot to tighten the bearing caps all the way on the first setup. I have now moved over 0.030 from the passenger side to the driver's side, and when tightening the bearing caps backlash goes to 0 and its hard to even turn the...

So I added 20 thou to the pinion. Seems like im still really shallow. Going to add 15 more or so to the depth.

They said this is an axle bolt. Not sure what that means, like a lug? Anyways its not what I needed.

Revolution replaced by too short of ring gear bolt with this. I guess "go fish"