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I have no clue why, but damn do I love Sonoma! I really want to make it out there for a cup series race one day

I've been acting like a grumpy old man in my group chat with fellow f1 friends about this all morning. The track layout looks uninspired at best with the only saving grace being the really long fast straights. I'd much rather see a real, already existing, race track get some grade 1 upgrades and...

Brushless all day! I'll gladly pay extra for the tech. The lighter weight and ability to package in a smaller housing is also a benefit over brushed.

the 18" wheels look absolutely sick with the covers off. I agree though that the hub caps are the worst part of the new cars

I was saying this to my friends and they were acting like I was crazy. MSC had all summer to work with the team and the first round of testing. KMag had 10 days from signing to racing and he outpaces him by 0.5s. I'm excited to see how they match up over the year

I'm game, but my April is filling up fast so I may miss out

I never thought about it either, but when I go check them out I definitely will pay attention

So we just redid our insurance policies and added an umbrella policy. Doing so required me to put full coverage on the Jeep and it more than doubled the cost per year. This got me thinking about how much my Jeep is worth per year, and the answer is not as much as the insurance will cost. Moving...

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/shock-comparison-rancho-rs5000x-vs-skyjacker-black-max-vs-kyb-monotube.51209/post-929922 Essentially the shock wouldn't extend all the way (when pulled on) out of the box and it sounded different when shaken compared to the other three.

From what has been posted I think most people have received at least one bad shock out of the box. I know I did, but fortunately I caught it before installing.

Not at all. Mine is a ‘97 so the stock skid was stamped with essentially a countersink and the bolts are tapered. Not sure if all skids are like that or not. The clamping force is the more or less the same if you slot the hole or marginally enlarge it so no harm there

Sounds like your frame is slightly tweaked. I never had that issue with the stock skid on mine. It always went on easy peasy once I got the trans mount in place.

Title says it all. I'm looking to buy a circular saw and want to know which is ideal. I don't think I'll ever chop anything with it larger than a 2x, which makes me lean toward the 6-1/2". The 7-1/4" typically have stronger motor, but is that extra power worth the increase in handling...

If you don't already have a ball-joint tool go ahead and get one. It makes breaking the steering loose so much easier. They're around $20 from harbor freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

I was able to, yes. I have a ‘97 with a 1” BL and 1” MML on a 4.0/AX-15/231 drivetrain. I have a Savvy cable shifter for the 231. There was no beating or banging on the tub required. I was reading mixed reviews online if it would work, but figured I would rather have to wait for more parts than...

But how does all of this dangle angle, meat heat, and ass mass relate to the perceived stiffness of the rod? Edit: thread officially derailed

I really want to make an 80/20 wall that would allow for horizontal and vertical adjustment of any shelf or hanging device. I can't stand the look of pegboard for some reason, although the functionality can't be argued with. Too bad it would cost a fortune. One of these days maybe...

The Lo-pro mount is supposed to be garbage according to the internet. I reused my stock mount and haven't had any issues so far. I have a 97 with ax-15 fwiw

The ultra high clearance skid is really your only option for a purchased (read: no fab required) aluminum skid system for an early model TJ. I didn't have the time to fab up a crossmember so I just bought the UCF version. I'll continue to wheel it until I see any reason not to. Just because...

The only thing that changes is the amount of vertical force transmitted to the arm, thus changing the amount of torque and "anti-rock". As the angle between the arm and link changes (from 90*), that force gets smaller. What matters in practicality is that you still have enough anti-roll and...