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That's why I asked a better question.

What I'm saying is that if the answer was that it unequivocally added 10 HP, would that make an on-road difference in how a TJ drives given its miserable power to weight ratio, and terrible aerodynamics?

Why do we care about whether or not they add 10 HP or not? These are 4000 lb bricks, it's not going to make any actual performance improvement under any realistic conditions.

Or an Onlyfans??

Why is everyone complaining about needing to squat, or bend down to use the ARB? Do y'all complain this much every time you need to tie your shoe, or do you have mommy come over, and tie it for you?

I found this picture of one of the rentals I was using for work. Idling for the better part of 12 hours in -30°C does a number on the estimated range.

Amazon is notorious for knock-offs, and knock-offs of knock-offs. And amazon warehouses make it worse by pooling inventories of multiple vendors selling the same item. Multiple vendors will send their stock of the same item to amazon to store, and amazon puts them all in the same "bin". When one...

Anchoring my Jeep wouldn't really be an issue. But ya, my major concern is how well the TJ frame can handle it long term.

Is there any worth getting a stronger winch to make recovering others easier? I'm asking cuz my younger brother has a full sized truck, and drives like a younger brother.

At best 30 seconds is all you need to idle to get oil splashed around inside, unless you're dealing with extreme cold. When it's cold out, I just idle until the coolant temperature gauge starts to move. It might be longer than necessary, but it guarantees that is warm enough. The engine is going...

Oh fuck ya bud.

A car will use roughly 0.6L per hour per L of engine displacement, even more in cold temperatures. So that's 2.4L/her at the very least for you. To make things worse, you're not spending a lot of time at full operating temperature. The ECU runs the engine richer while it's warming up, which is...

It looks like two air springs joined together to replace the damper. It simply adds extra centering force on the steering on top of what your caster, and camber do. It won't cure DW, it'll just mask it the same way a damper does, by limiting the amount of movement in the steering. It might be...

The input pressures are a lot lower, so they are more susceptible to pressure drops. Automotive brakes are actuated by a leg, assisted by a brake booster, and have a lot more space to fit different piston sizes. Bicycle brakes only have your grip strength to work with. They also need to be...

That's true, but it gets more complicated when you're moving DOT fluid through a small ID rather than air. With the limited amount of force that can be applied to the brake lever by the rider, reducing the pressure drop between the lever, and the caliper is important. A larger ID reduces that...

That's pretty much what I'm saying; they moved away from stainless braided hoses since there was no substantial benefit. While I haven't measured them, there definitely is a difference in the feel. Automotive brake hoses don't have restraints on the diameter of the hose, so it's a lot easier...

What's wrong with limiting the pressure in order to prevent the brakes from locking up as easily? It's not like the lines are visibly ballooning. They generally use the same calipers front, and rear, so they aren't able to change the ratios there. Same goes for the levers, at most the left, and...

When hydraulic brakes were first introduced to mountain biking, the focus was purely on trying to make them as powerful as possible, so you had a lot of people replacing their hoses with braided stainless to reduce the pressure loss from the hoses expanding. As the technology got better, they...

Everyone shitting on setting up RTTs are only thinking of the soft shell tents, the hard shell ones are even easier than normal tents. Most people would consider an LJ not the best vehicle for overlanding, but those are the same people who's overlanding is just glorified RVing. I've overlanded...

I doubt that's a MC joint. For starters, it has a zerk fitting which MC joints don't have or need since they are intended to move by flexing the rubber rather than have the joint slide inside of the housing. Additionally, it's paired with a clevite which doesn't seem to be something MC does. My...