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Those are made by Cardone, which is now owned by the First Brands group....who has screwed up Centric and Raybestos in the previous several years. Their policy now is to re-use phenolic pistons, after running them through a centerless grinder to "clean them up". Phenolics begin to...

Rebuilt calipers are mostly garbage these days. There are only 3 major rebuilder at this point and I'm not a fan of any of them. All the tribal knowledge/expertise was lost when the plants were moved to Mexico. Get some new (not rebuilt) calipers from BMB.

Also, it obviously has not been doing this since day one....when did the problem begin to occur, and what changes/services/etc occured directly before that point?

Sounds like the top edge of the leading shoe is getting into the drum before the rest of the shoe makes contact. To get a good picture of what's going on, pull the drums, clean up the shoes with brake cleaner, shoot them with a light coat of primer, put the drums and wheels back on and lightly...

I can assure you they're not too long.

Carlson H9477-2 is what you need. BrakeBest (O'reilly) uses the same part number. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/brakebest-hardware-hydraulics/brakes/brake-hydraulics/brake-hose-banjo-bolt---washer/8636f44d3c35/brakebest-banjo-bolt/bhh0/h94772

As far as reman steering gears go, Redhead kinda sets the standard. The other guys basically put kits in them and don't do anything else as far as eliminating wear or slop

The first set is for the "drum in hat" parking brake on a rear disc brake assembly.

Do you have a disc brake axle?...if so, order the first one. If you have a drum brake axle, order the second one (and find the one for the other side).

Make sure it's in park

Uneven levels of corrosion (from letting the vehicle set for extended length of time) and any other uneven-ness to the friction surface will cause uneven friction levels and will result in the same problem, but for different reasons....I omitted that part because this was a discussion on...

They aren't warping again, and thickness, or the ever-so-slight reduction in thickness from resurfacing has absolutely no affect on heat capacity of the rotor...we're dealing with a miniscule amount of material. The key word here is "runout". First, the way most brake pads (applicable to...

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I wouldn't worry about the tires...Laufenn are made by Hankook. As far as no-name tires go, Laufenn are pretty decent.

You've contradicted yourself. Brakes convert kinetic energy into heat...plain and simple. A rotor is a heat sink. For a given braking event, X amount of energy will be converted into X amount of heat. If we put that amount of energy into a plain rotor with greater mass and also as...

wrong, it is fact, and the reasons have been pointed out. Reviews are what you make of them...example: I had a customer who for years purchased the cheapest bottom of the barrel pads and rotors they could get their hands on, did their own slotting / drilling / zinc plating, then sold them as...

Having spent the better part of my career in the brake industry, I'm somewhat of an authority on the subject. A plain rotor would have been a better choice for several reason, but one holds more weight than all the others based on the pictures of the old parts: You are clearly in an area when...

Check it again when you have time...(if you still have it) ... I've seen a whole lot of throwout bearings that sort of "float" on the hub to help it stay aligned and self center through the range of motion of the fork. That might be what you're seeing.

Plenty of guys launch with TJs and YJs at our ramp, but it isn't very steep or slippery.

That would be disturbing, as National is an aftermarket brand of Federal Mogul (Now DR1V). Every National brand bearing I've bought in the last 20 years has been chinese.