I wish I had pictures of my 92 mustang notch back!!! Not slotted rotors and still stopped the 475 horse 347 stroker
Replaced my Pads and Rotors
- Thread starter Rickwhoo
- Start date
LONGJP2
TJ Expert
This isn't Facebook.
I would say most of those that come to this forum work on their Jeeps; and unlike you, they also come to learn.
I've always heard it as,
"Never argue with an idiot, they'll bring you down to their level, then beat you with experience."
Having spent the better part of my career in the brake industry, I'm somewhat of an authority on the subject.
A plain rotor would have been a better choice for several reason, but one holds more weight than all the others based on the pictures of the old parts:
You are clearly in an area when corrosion is a concern, that's why the inner friction surfaces of your old rotors are almost consumed by rust. Rust will occur in these areas, and that almost always WILL be the failure mode of a cast iron brake rotor. Coatings on the friction surface will be gone after the road test...and coatings on the rest of the rotor will degrade over time. The pads can keep the swept area clean, but the slots/drill holes are not swept. As soon as whatever de-icers they are exposed to begin degrading the remaining coating in the slots/drill holes, they will rust and rust will start creeping into the swept area from the slots/drill holes.
With a plain rotor...typically rust will start around the ID and OD of the swept area and creep further into the swept area...there comes a point when there is insufficient good friction surface remaining to effectively brake the vehicle. With a slotted/drilled rotor under these conditions, we still have the above mentioned "rust creep", but also we've added rust from the slots/drill holes that will creep into the swept area, accelerating the degradation of the rotor.
"But slots and holes perform better"...some might shout from the rooftops. Maybe, under certain conditions, but not by much (based on dyno testing...not seat of the pants)...and one thing that always holds true without question is that a rotor with a clean friction surface will perform significantly better than one with a friction surface half consumed by rust.
The better performing brake rotor is the one that remains in the best condition for the greatest amount of time.
A plain rotor would have been a better choice for several reason, but one holds more weight than all the others based on the pictures of the old parts:
You are clearly in an area when corrosion is a concern, that's why the inner friction surfaces of your old rotors are almost consumed by rust. Rust will occur in these areas, and that almost always WILL be the failure mode of a cast iron brake rotor. Coatings on the friction surface will be gone after the road test...and coatings on the rest of the rotor will degrade over time. The pads can keep the swept area clean, but the slots/drill holes are not swept. As soon as whatever de-icers they are exposed to begin degrading the remaining coating in the slots/drill holes, they will rust and rust will start creeping into the swept area from the slots/drill holes.
With a plain rotor...typically rust will start around the ID and OD of the swept area and creep further into the swept area...there comes a point when there is insufficient good friction surface remaining to effectively brake the vehicle. With a slotted/drilled rotor under these conditions, we still have the above mentioned "rust creep", but also we've added rust from the slots/drill holes that will creep into the swept area, accelerating the degradation of the rotor.
"But slots and holes perform better"...some might shout from the rooftops. Maybe, under certain conditions, but not by much (based on dyno testing...not seat of the pants)...and one thing that always holds true without question is that a rotor with a clean friction surface will perform significantly better than one with a friction surface half consumed by rust.
The better performing brake rotor is the one that remains in the best condition for the greatest amount of time.
Jerry - Under you post you say "When you have a choice, by American made". Black Magic brake pads are not American made. Please buy American.
WTF? Did you miss the part you quoted saying "When you have a choice"?
I just checked and they don't offer front pads for a 98 tj..any other guesses?
I don't see front brakes offered for my blue Jeep nor do I see them offering a set of F450 brakes for my red one.
Probably 95% of active forum members wrench on their rigs. That’s why we’re here. We’re TJ enthusiasts. We may disagree on MC products, but we all agree on non-slotted, non-drilled rotors. Relax with the ad hominem posts. This is the best and most helpful forum on the internet. We even have the best ASSHOLES. You might just fit in, but if you can’t take a few bumps and bruises, you won’t make it here.
Ohh, I think you'd be surprised that the majority of us do our own stunts
Though I think you'll also find that most of us won't go starting a new thread to show that we swapped out a set of pads and rotors. We need attention, but not that bad
You're not making friends here with your growing list of negative member-baiting remarks like that.
wrong, it is fact, and the reasons have been pointed out.
Reviews are what you make of them...example:
I had a customer who for years purchased the cheapest bottom of the barrel pads and rotors they could get their hands on, did their own slotting / drilling / zinc plating, then sold them as a top shelf premium product with a price close to or more than a dealer would get at retail. They marketed so well (or found enough stupid people) that they have folks pulling OEM (USA, Germany, Japan, etc...) manufactured rotors...which are as close to top shelf as it gets, off of their fairly new cars and installing bottom of the barrel chinese stuff because it was sold to them as an "upgrade". They sold parts to everyone. All the reviews were stellar.... "way better than my old brakes". Well, obviously...if your old brakes were good then you wouldn't have replaced them. They were worn out and in disrepair.
Regardless of what parts one chooses, issues like sticking pads, stuck slide pins, sticking pistons (temporarily) get solved by accident during the course of a brake job. Of course it will work better afterwards....even though the junk pads and rotors that were installed are nothing special at the lower end of the spectrum as far as operating characteristics, temp range, longevity, and overall quality.
If you put any real heat into your brakes, you'll have cracks running right through those drill holes....which you typicallty won't get until significantly more abuse on a plain or slotted rotor.
You cant confess to something most of us already knew