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No, it was fine. I just didn't expect it. It's not acting up with this. I just never saw it do that before. Maybe it's not a problem. I just want to see whether it is or not.

As you know, the factory Voltmeter isn't very accurate, but even it showed slightly lower than normal. The digital gauge I have is wired through the old cigarette lighter circuit.

I don't think so. It's ALWAYS shown 13.9 volts in warm weather, and the weather hasn't been cool here since April. Now in Winter, on a cold start, it'll crank 14.4, 5,or 6, but that's not the case here.

Alright, I've got another strange one. I have a digital Voltmeter added to the Muddog, (2002, 4.0, 170,000 miles), and in warm weather it's always shown 13.9 volts. Yesterday, it was displaying 13.5-6 volts. This morning, 14.1-2 volts. Later, back to 13.9. It's never done this before. Is this an...

Bearings?

I bet you're wrong. When I had my Bar Tacs, a stray cat tore up the center section of the Passenger side. Mind you this was a piece about 10" X 10". I asked a few local auto upholsterers about replacing the piece. $150!!! It didn't cost much more that that for the Cal Trends I replaced the Bar...

If the cluster is the only problem, yes. Hopefully the wiring diagrams that are available on this website will help.

Wiring is tedious, but not that hard. You would need wiring diagrams for both years. Going one wire at a time, trace each wire from the PCM and figure out what it does. LABEL each wire. Starting at the '99 cluster, figure what every connection, each individual pin needs. LABEL them. Then it's...

Wire brushed the thing before testing. Nice and clean.

It pulls the VIN on my 2006 Durango.

Earlier this week, I had to run my Jeep through Az. DOT Emissions to renew Registration. THeir OBD2 reader couldn't make connection. I did the usual research, (Googled it), and found basically two answers, (1) Hot to check for power, which it has, and (2) reset the computer by disconnecting...

I seem to remember a couple years ago that their production had moved to China. I'm also guessing that Jl/JK covers are a higher priority since they're newer, and they don't sell as many TJ covers. I called them about a repair about 3 YEARS ago and they never called me back. I've since replaced...

NO! NO! NO! Redline MTL is what you want. Red Line MTL 75W80 GL-4 https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Transmission-Transaxle-Lubricant/dp/B00NTEWQ1U/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I run the Redline MTL also. I was having SERIOUS shifting problems, but it fixed most of them, until my 3rd gear syncro crapped out. As long as I take my time going from 2nd to 3rd, it shifts alright. But if I were changing the fluid, I'd stick with the Redline.

I have CJ type mirrors on the Muddog. JJVW is right, they vibrate, but all I need to know is if there is a vehicle beside me, I don't need to read his License Plate or know his eye color. One thing you will want to do is get a set of adjustable door straps. The OEM straps let the doors open too...

Did not realize that. I presumed that they had conventional bulbs in them.

Well his current socket is broken, so he needs the entire assembly. I'd get the Hobo Freight lights, (they're cheap enough that if you don't like them, they're easily enough replaced), and put decent bulbs in them, whether LED or otherwise.

If you've got a large Ace Hardware where you're at, you'll probably have better luck there.

You want the lights that say Fog Lights, like the set I linked to earlier. I don't know why they don't show them in amber, they used to. The lights you've selected are a Driving Light. They have a more narrow beam than a Fog Light. As for connecting, you'd just need to crimp on a Spade Connector...

LEDs use LESS power than Halogen bulbs, not more. LED headlights are just plug and play. No wiring needed. Same with those Toyota lights mentioned earlier, or any H4 headlight set. The factory Fog Lights are 55 watt halogen bulbs. Almost any Fog Lights you get will be the same. The Hella's I...