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Ok, I'll report back....BTW, 304 is used all the time as a spring steel, it's a lot more common than you think.

What year is your Jeep? What engine does it have? Personally, I always fix vacuum leaks first; it's easy and solves a lot of problems. Heat soak typically won't impact cylinder 1 and only impacts the 4.0L... I'll assume you have the 6-cylinder. Here are some things I've done to troubleshoot...

I was leaning towards 304 stainless.... Update: cost per part will come out to about $100 each for just me or about $50 each if I make about 200 of them (more will drive that price down some to a floor of about $30 per pair)

I used an impact driver with some long swivel-end extensions for most of them and a flexible extension for one of them. Pro-tip: hit them with penetrating oil (I used PB) two or three times over the course of the day before you try; spray a little, let it soak for a few hours, do it again..

Update: Thanks everyone for your help; running like a dream now. Turns out the valve in that cylinder was just gunked up and didn't need a full rebuild, just some serious cleaning. Root cause was the coil pack.

Resurrecting this thread as I found myself in need of the long retaining clips: 55176401AB. Trying to figure out if there's other people wanting these and I'll get better tooling made, otherwise, I'll just make some sacrificial dies and make a few for myself by hand.

Well, I finally found out what the problem was... Here's a photo of the intake valve on cylinder 1 on the near side of the intake port. Looks like some blowby on that valve. Probably only happens sometimes and at low RPM. Looks like I'll be taking the heads off this weekend....

I make some custom double-din mounting brackets (I was tired of all the plastic junk breaking) if you don't mind cutting a bit of the plastic off dash and making your own connectors for the bezel retaining clips. I'll be adding those later.

Yep. I got a replacement when I did a radiator flush a few years ago, never installed it.

Update: Still idling rich, rockers looked fine, nothing wrong with the valves. Going to soak cylinders 1-3 in seafoam, give it an oil change, and see what happens.

Injectors are all new, didn't do a leak-down as compression test was bang-on at 135-145 psi across all 6 cylinders.

Nope, vacuum gauge looked fine. Going to check the rocker arms and pushrods next.

Checked intake and exhaust for leaks via smoke testing. Found a leak in the muffler; so that's another future project, but intake and exhaust looked fine around the actual engine.

That actually does help quite a bit. I'm thinking there's a leak near bank 1 that's letting in extra air somewhere causing the voltage to be way too high on the upstream o2 sensor and resulting in a (sometimes) code being set on occasion. That could also the reason my Bank 1 fuel trim is so high...

Installed the new aluminum brackets I designed for the stereo instead of tracking down the vacuum leak. Anyone with a 2002 will tell you a double din stereo doesn't fit, but for a few hundred bucks, you can make it work. Yes, it's very dirty. I live in a desert and it's a Jeep that's seen more...

Warmup time was about the same across all the sensors including one I chopped up and hooked straight to the battery. They are PTC heaters, so resistance increases with temperature. The fact that the engine is just running super rich might be a causative agent here rather than the effect. Not...

O2 sensor isn't actually heating up. I took the previous o2 sensor I had on there which has a heater element that tested fine (4.6 ohms at ambient temp). Started the Jeep, had voltage, but shouldn't that sensor get super hot really quickly? It didn't. EDIT: so it takes a little while longer...

Exhaust leak is possible, fuel pressure was perfectly fine.

Ground connects to 2/1 sensor ground as well, both go to A4 on C1 (PCM connector) and has <.2 ohms resistance.

Not the pre-cat either. Guess I'll be doing a leak down test next.