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It's a long story but here's the story so far. 2005 TJ Sport, 42RLE. I was out on the trail and noticed the transmission shifting notably harder than usual. No CEL, no codes that Torque could find. Everything else was fine and the Jeep was driveable, but after I got off the trail I took it in...

If you don't mind, I may copy your special tool. 😉

I had the pleasure of meeting @mrblaine in person yesterday, and I'd like to thank him again for his help with the hub seals and for his generosity!

Congrats! My wife and I had a TJ for our wedding day too. It was a rental, but that was what made me want to get one of my own!

I can confirm, since I just did exactly that. Is it my fault that I thought the parts that Yukon sent me would fit together? So now I'm thinking if you went through the trouble of building a tool to put the hub seals in, my odds of getting them in with regular hand tools and amateur skills must...

I appreciate the offer. It is a long drive, so I'll be in touch if I'm going to take you up on that. It's encouraging to hear that the wheel studs weren't entirely my fault. The technique I came up with was to start them by hand with a regular nut and a couple lubricated washers. Then switch to...

I'm working on a locking hub install, but I suck at press fit parts. I barely got the bearing races in the hubs, destroyed a couple of wheel studs, crunched a roller bearing in a u-joint, and now I've destroyed both of the hub bearing seals. I am actually using a bearing race and seal...

Congratulations! I love it! That skid plate has been on my wish list. However, after enjoying a couple of days of highway driving with my front driveshaft out (which makes the vibes go away), I gave in and ordered locking hubs. Wish me luck with that upgrade!

Well, I can confirm that reinstalling the OE transmission skid did not affect the vibrations.

I have a new crackpot theory. No need to talk me out of this one because I'm just going to test it this afternoon. I have a UCF engine skid and it creaks when I'm making a sharp turn or flexing the suspension. I've chalked that up to the front end of the frame flexing just enough to cause the...

I did not remove the motor from the crank case cover when I was rebuilding the compressor. Based on the instructions, though, I would just put a finger on the motor shaft and press on it to keep it from sliding out of place while separating the motor from the crank case cover.

This old thread has some new life! Time for an updated pic:

Hey @AussieNick ! We will find another time to do Rodriguez Canyon!

For reference only, here are the stock control arm lengths: Front UCA: 15" Rear UCA: 13.25" Front/Rear LCA: 15.75" That's "for reference" because measuring control arm lengths isn't going to solve your problems. But knowing if you're way off might be helpful.

First thing, pull that rubber jounce bumper out of the bump stop cup. That's just going to get in the way of what you're doing. Here's a trick if you're going to push the axle up all the way so both ends are on the bump stops. Reconnect the sway bar. That will keep the axle level while you're...

What @JMT and @Mike_H said +1.

This might help: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/stock-spring-swap-walk-thru-with-pics.12655/ Also, you might be able to get a thin open end wrench on the top end of the shock to keep the shaft from spinning.

How about disconnecting the shocks at the axle instead of at the frame?

So that the bolt head doesn't punch a hole in the gas tank in a collision. That's apparently also the reason for the plastic shim that goes over the axle bracket for the rear track bar.