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Seems like he would need thick gears now to keep his existing open carriers. Then when he is ready for the lockers, make sure to pick the appropriate part number on the “wrong” side of the carrier break so he can keep using the thick gears…

Bestop should include a small bottle of that stuff with each tramp stamped top they sell

The TJ Rubicon’s OEM diff covers are front/rear specific, with the front having a lower fill hole. The front diff does not require the same volume of lube as the rear, since it is not necessary for the front to have enough lube to run down the axle tubes to lube the bearings

since mrblaine offered solid advice without self-promotion…check out his website Black Magic Brakes (Wizard Recovery Gear). Currently showing $151 shipped for 85’ of 3/8” with a safety thimble installed, and I would bet the $151 that mrblaine isn’t selling junk

Yes, pretty sure the OEM seats sit around an inch lower for ‘03-‘06 compared to ‘97-‘02. IIRC it had something to do with optimal placement of the airbag against the average human torso.

OP mentioned Currie as a possible replacement…the current one looks suspiciously like a Currie/RJ already.

If the OEM locker pumps are still in their original location, they (the entire bracket actually) will need to be removed from the skid and secured up out of the way prior to lowering the skid

Running even significantly different tire sizes won’t bother an open diff in the least. An open diff can spin each side at different speeds indefinitely. An ls diff would experience accelerated clutch wear, but I’m guessing that would not be a great big deal assuming the spare was only run to...

I guess you can say "there should not be any significant change in the sound" but the fact is there commonly is with the NV3550, as noted by The Boogieman and GoldenGorilla here, and a bunch of others elsewhere. The NV 3550 is notorious for a rattling noise when in neutral with the clutch...

Mine for reference…

My TJR bearing cap bolts look the same, with the “LE” (or it “37”, forgive my lack of fastener knowledge?). Mine has washers under the right side bolts, presumably because the OEM actuator mounting tabs are under the bolt heads. I have no washers under the left side bolts

Definitely ok to drive 13 miles to the shop using just the front driveshaft in 4H. Probably ok to drive a lot further than that. Edit…as noted in the two earlier replies. You will likely notice a little jerkiness during low speed very sharp turns, which is just the two front axle u-joints...

A few that bug me… Supposably vs supposedly Guide wires vs guy wires “To each their own” vs “to each his own”

Possibly, and 1/4” bleed hole probably isn’t helping…

I believe this is exactly backwards. A thermostats rated temp is the temp at which it will begin to open, but it will typically not be fully open until 12-15 degrees above the rated temp. So for our TJs the thermostat starts to open around 195, but won’t be fully open until ect reaches 207-210

It probably also comes on during steep climbs, but I'm guessing no one has ever checked...😆

I'd bet on fuel boiling in the rail and primarily affecting cyl #1 in the OP's case. The TSB specifically references #3, but seems likely that other injectors/cylinders could be affected under certain circumstances. I have had a P0304 with the exact same symptoms, i.e. couple minutes of rough...

That's an interesting thought. Obviously an IFS Wrangler would be "dead" to most of us here on WTJF... but I wonder what percentage of Wrangler owners since the YJ came out even know if their Jeep has IFS or a solid axle. I have a suspicion that the percentage of Wrangler owners worldwide who...

The factory driveshaft ujoints are retained by plastic injected into channels in the joints. The typical way to remove it is to melt it out with a torch. I have not done it myself, but I have read to be careful which way the plastic nub is pointing when you heat it, as the hot melted plastic...

A stuck-open thermostat will absolutely make the engine run too cool, except perhaps in extreme conditions. At any "normal" ambient temperature (lets leave normal undefined for this conversation) a stuck-open thermostat or a 160 or 180 rated thermostat will cause the engine to fail to reach...