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Sounds normal... Even when the fan clutch is "disengaged" it typically spins the fan at roughly 20-30% of engine speed. When the fan clutch engages it spins the fan at roughly 60% of engine speed. HD fan clutches typically engage at a slightly lower temperature than standard-duty clutches...

I’m certainly no expert, but I think I’ve paid enough attention in my lurking on this forum to recognize pretty sharp bend radii for 6061t6

Absolutely normal. When you have the top fully buttoned up, air will flow into the cabin through the hvac system and tend to "inflate" the top, unless you have the hvac set to recirculate. This is usually considered a good thing, as it tends to marginally reduce flapping of the top and...

The speed signal from the sensor goes to the PCM first, which then positions the speedometer needle accordingly. If you own, or can beg, borrow, or steal some kind of OBDii reader, try to determine what the PCM is reporting for vehicle speed. This could help determine if the problem is with...

For your LJ Rubicon, it is indeed unlikely that you would need an SYE for a 2.5" OME lift. However, a 1" mml would further decrease the odds of needing an SYE, and would complement the body lift by eliminating the need to modify the fan shroud.

Some of us are the original owners of our TJs, i.e. we are the previous owner who screwed things up. We have no excuse, it's all on us...

$171? I used Spicer seals on mine a few years ago, and would again if needed, but I didn't use any special tool I think you can get the Spicer seals for in the ballpark of $35 for the pair

Seems like the "problem" (if it really is a problem) should be eliminated at that point

I would for sure prefer a new OEM top over a new Bestop Replace-a-Top. On the other hand I would (and did) prefer a new Bestop Replace-a-Top over a 14-year old OEM top in no better than "fair" condition

Depends on the condition of the factory soft top. After about 14 years my factory soft top was showing its age, so I replaced it with a new Bestop sailcloth Replace-a-Top. Since the original top was still serviceable, I sold it to someone whose factory top was apparently in worse condition.

Seems like the best idea would be to use what the mfr/supplier of the gears recommends…that’s what I did. 75w/140 synthetic for my oem Rubi diffs, for the first 14 yrs/90k miles. When the RGA gears went in, so did the 85w/140 non-syn that RGA recommended

35 x 12.5 tires rubbing the control arms when fully turned?

That scenario does sound like a pain in the ass. Since I run Titan spacers, I am curious to know how you eventually removed them, on the off chance it should ever happen to me. Fortunately no issues with them for me for around 22k miles.

The tag says 4-1. Is that not enough, or am I missing something obvious?

If you were inclined to flat-tow, I wouldn't let this stop you. For peace of mind it would only take a few minutes to disconnect the driveshaft at the front diff and secure it up out of the way. At that point the risk is eliminated.

Original owner here...ordered my '03 Rubi in mid-Oct '02, took delivery four weeks later with 3 miles on the odometer

I think you're on the right track with the PCM calibration difference idea. My '03 has done the exact same thing since day one ( I am the original owner). For me it is most noticeable on the 1-2 shift, less so on the 2-3, and 3-4 and 4-5 fairly unnoticeable. It has been a minor frustration...

The mistake, if you're inclined to think of it as such, was not leaving the auto trans in N. That is most most likely completely unrelated to this scenario. I wouldn't even really think of this as a mistake. It was just time, based on age and/or miles/kms, for the centering ball in the front...

If they literally "blew apart" the front driveshaft double-cardan joint probably seized

OP indicated that the heater core was recently replaced, so probably doesn't need flushing yet. Is the recently replaced thermostat a 195deg non-fail-safe, and is the dash temp gauge indicating close to 210 when fully warmed up?