Rear Driveshaft Snapped

Zelliaind

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Aug 20, 2025
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19
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Guam
Greetings and salutations all. I've posted here a few times in the past but unfortunately due to being laid off at the start of the year, I haven't had much opportunity to do much work on my TJ.

Approximately a month (or more) ago, I went to leave my place and hit the accelerator. Sadly, it seems the rear Driveshaft finally had enough of my shit and decided to snap right at the U-Joint on the rear. Now the previous owner had lifted the Jeep to 2.5 inches and failed to do anything else (SYE, CV, Upper Control Arms, etc.) but I was more focused on the issues I was having with the 32RH transmission being finnicky than getting the lift finished in the correct and proper manner. Now that I've got a new job start pending next week (laid off for five months sucked but thankful I have a job now) I'm looking into getting this problem fixed the right way. SYE Kit, CV, the works, plus a new lift because the one that was put on there by the previous owner is garbage and makes the Jeep feel like I'm going over train tracks every time I hit a pebble.

I've removed what remained of the broken rear shaft so that I can move it around a bit (in a limited matter) in 4H and generally only move it forward and backward a foot every couple of days while letting the Jeep run for around 5 minutes two to three times a week just so it's not sitting. The question is: Now that I'm looking into getting the parts, I need to know if it's safe to drive in this manner on the road, in a limited fashion, to get to the Hobby Shop on one of the military bases here on Guam. I've only recently started getting into working on cars and just replaced a leaky Master Cylinder and busted Brake Booster a few months ago and have some some work on my S550 Mustang (lowering springs, etc.) but putting in an SYE Kit, CV, etc. is a bit...imposing.

The base I'm planning on going to work on this at is around 13 miles from my house with not big hills but a gradual incline over that distance. Is it safe to drive this far? If not, I could get a tow to the front gate and drive it the last mile to the shop. If that's not safe either, is this possible to do outside my place? I don't have access to a lot of tools where I live so a shop would be more prudent. I looked over the guide here on the forums for the SYE Kit install but I'm more of a visual learner than a "read a guide" learner, so does anyone have any good videos or guides with pictures that might help me with this process? I've seen some on YouTube but seeing and doing are quite different and some make it seem very simple.

Lastly, does anyone have any good recommendations on which SYE and CV Shaft to get? I've got a pretty good idea what to get for the Upper Control Arms and Lift, I just need a clearer idea on the first two so that I can research and see if I can get them shipped to Guam or need to opt for a freight forwarder for those parts.

Appreciate any help that anyone can offer. Thanks!
 
Greetings and salutations all. I've posted here a few times in the past but unfortunately due to being laid off at the start of the year, I haven't had much opportunity to do much work on my TJ.

Approximately a month (or more) ago, I went to leave my place and hit the accelerator. Sadly, it seems the rear Driveshaft finally had enough of my shit and decided to snap right at the U-Joint on the rear. Now the previous owner had lifted the Jeep to 2.5 inches and failed to do anything else (SYE, CV, Upper Control Arms, etc.) but I was more focused on the issues I was having with the 32RH transmission being finnicky than getting the lift finished in the correct and proper manner. Now that I've got a new job start pending next week (laid off for five months sucked but thankful I have a job now) I'm looking into getting this problem fixed the right way. SYE Kit, CV, the works, plus a new lift because the one that was put on there by the previous owner is garbage and makes the Jeep feel like I'm going over train tracks every time I hit a pebble.

I've removed what remained of the broken rear shaft so that I can move it around a bit (in a limited matter) in 4H and generally only move it forward and backward a foot every couple of days while letting the Jeep run for around 5 minutes two to three times a week just so it's not sitting. The question is: Now that I'm looking into getting the parts, I need to know if it's safe to drive in this manner on the road, in a limited fashion, to get to the Hobby Shop on one of the military bases here on Guam. I've only recently started getting into working on cars and just replaced a leaky Master Cylinder and busted Brake Booster a few months ago and have some some work on my S550 Mustang (lowering springs, etc.) but putting in an SYE Kit, CV, etc. is a bit...imposing.

The base I'm planning on going to work on this at is around 13 miles from my house with not big hills but a gradual incline over that distance. Is it safe to drive this far? If not, I could get a tow to the front gate and drive it the last mile to the shop. If that's not safe either, is this possible to do outside my place? I don't have access to a lot of tools where I live so a shop would be more prudent. I looked over the guide here on the forums for the SYE Kit install but I'm more of a visual learner than a "read a guide" learner, so does anyone have any good videos or guides with pictures that might help me with this process? I've seen some on YouTube but seeing and doing are quite different and some make it seem very simple.

Lastly, does anyone have any good recommendations on which SYE and CV Shaft to get? I've got a pretty good idea what to get for the Upper Control Arms and Lift, I just need a clearer idea on the first two so that I can research and see if I can get them shipped to Guam or need to opt for a freight forwarder for those parts.

Appreciate any help that anyone can offer. Thanks!

Others can chime in for SYE and CV, but I drove 60 miles a day for a week in 4wd with no problem. Just make sure the rear shaft is entirely removed so it doesn't flop and whack
 
Definitely ok to drive 13 miles to the shop using just the front driveshaft in 4H. Probably ok to drive a lot further than that. Edit…as noted in the two earlier replies. You will likely notice a little jerkiness during low speed very sharp turns, which is just the two front axle u-joints fighting each other, but even that will really just be more of an annoyance than a major issue.

I’ll let others recommend the parts
 
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I'm not sure what shipping surcharges may be, but you may be able to save a few bucks with a local driveshaft shop. Be worth a call at least. That will set you up with a place for a rebalance should you ever need it.

I used the Advanced Adapters kit and followed their video, but I've got a lot more wheelbase. There are a couple different SYE lengths available from other manufacturers, so you'll want to decide on that.
 
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Yep, no problem driving it in FWD with the rear shaft removed. I taped over the splines on mine as I didn't want them to get dirty - but it sounds like you're replacing all that anyway so it won't matter.
 
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Just don’t remove the rear differential pinion yoke or loosen the nut at all if you want to drive it around. Without that in place, there is nothing holding the pinion gear in place and it will walk inwards and grenade the differential, probably locking it up entirely. If it is loosened, the bearing life might be shortened.

If it is still in place and torqued, you’re perfectly fine to drive 100,000+ miles at any legal speed on the front axle alone.

If you do that long term, make sure your parking brake is properly tensioned in case the shifter gets bumped into 2Hi. 2Hi and no rear driveshaft means the only thing stopping you from rolling away is the parking brake.
 
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I recently installed an advanced adaptor SYE and double cardon drive shaft from Tom Woods. Great people to work with.
 
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Thanks for the input, all. It's much appreciated. I feel a little better about driving it as is now--poor thing has been sitting for over a month with just me moving it forward and backward every couple of days and letting it run for five minutes. I might take it around the block just to clear out the cobwebs now that I know it's safe to do so.

I'm looking at two SYE Kits currently. The Advanced Adaptor SYE kit mentioned here, and another one that some in the Guam chat have mentioned as "JB Conversions standard HD kit" (not super short, I don't plan on a tummy tuck...still not quite sure what that is, ha). In you all's experience, what's the better brand? Guys in the chat here are swearing by JB Conversions but they said AA is a good brand as well. Looking for something fairly corrosion resistant (not proof, nothing is corrosion proof) due to the salty and humid climate here. I really just want to make sure I get the best brand/bang for my buck so that I don't have to take everything apart a few months or years down the road to replace due to a lack of due diligence.

Ordering tonight and contacting Tom Woods tonight with my specs to get it sent out here in the coming weeks. Sadly, no driveshaft shop on Guam--I'm kind of limited on island with what I can do unfortunately.
 
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Looking for something fairly corrosion resistant (not proof, nothing is corrosion proof) due to the salty and humid climate here.
If whatever you end up with isn't painted - paint it. If you think the original paint is crap, paint it again. I just re-did my front end which was a mass of rust, and most of the new stuff wan't painted — so I painted it. Lots of shocks and diff covers have horrid paint from the factory - I painted my shocks before they went on, I repainted a diff cover that was rusty because the OEM paint was crap, etc, etc...
 
Thanks for the input, all. It's much appreciated. I feel a little better about driving it as is now--poor thing has been sitting for over a month with just me moving it forward and backward every couple of days and letting it run for five minutes. I might take it around the block just to clear out the cobwebs now that I know it's safe to do so.

I'm looking at two SYE Kits currently. The Advanced Adaptor SYE kit mentioned here, and another one that some in the Guam chat have mentioned as "JB Conversions standard HD kit" (not super short, I don't plan on a tummy tuck...still not quite sure what that is, ha). In you all's experience, what's the better brand? Guys in the chat here are swearing by JB Conversions but they said AA is a good brand as well. Looking for something fairly corrosion resistant (not proof, nothing is corrosion proof) due to the salty and humid climate here. I really just want to make sure I get the best brand/bang for my buck so that I don't have to take everything apart a few months or years down the road to replace due to a lack of due diligence.

Ordering tonight and contacting Tom Woods tonight with my specs to get it sent out here in the coming weeks. Sadly, no driveshaft shop on Guam--I'm kind of limited on island with what I can do unfortunately.

The 231 case is cast aluminum, the exposed portion of the AA is as well. I'd assume the JB one is the same.
 
I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on the the JB super short. After a lot of research and seeing that after a lot of people got a regular SYE and wished they'd gotten the super short after, I figured why not?

After that, I'll be getting a rear CV DS from Tom Woods.
 
Hey all, thanks for all of the feedback!

I've done some more reading, including on this forum, and I've seen some indications that it may not be safe to drive any long distance--but that's because I may have not given the correct information to give the correct answer. I've read that if a Slip Yoke is still on the vehicle (without an SYE Kit being installed) that it's not safe to drive as all of the ATF inside can leak out via the shaft. Is this verifiable? If so, what would I need to do, plug the hole? If it's not true, then why am I seeing this in various places as not being safe?

Again, thanks for all the answers. It's a great help just starting out working on these types of vehicles. I just hope that I can stop playing whack-a-mole with all of the problems the previous owner left me with to finally be able to actually enjoy driving it. Thanks!
 
You've correct that a slip yoke goes in a hole.

A slip yoke eliminator does just that... eliminates the hole, replaces it with a splined shaft and yoke...and a sealing surface and seal keeping all your ATF in the case.

-Mac
 
... I've read that if a Slip Yoke is still on the vehicle (without an SYE Kit being installed) that it's not safe to drive as all of the ATF inside can leak out via the shaft. Is this verifiable? If so, what would I need to do, plug the hole? If it's not true, then why am I seeing this in various places as not being safe?

It's perfectly safe to drive around with the rear driveshaft removed, with the bare tailshaft splines sticking out of the transfer case. That shaft has a seal at the rear of the tail housing. You won't spill any ATF. See the 1998 FSM page 21-173 for the details.