Search results

My jeep sat at a repair shop waiting to get an engine installed from Jan - July of last year. I purchased and paid for the engine in November and hauled the jeep there in late December. The shop stated they were waiting on parts... but I was not in a hurry so no big deal. Sometime around...

Thats what I thought, thanks for the confirmation. Could driving offroad at limited speeds cause additional damage? I have a New Years Day trip planned that I can trailer to/from, but if driving with a bent axle shaft could cause damage to the locker/gears/etc... Ill just let it sit until I...

I finally got my TJ back up and running after replacing the engine but it looks like I have a bent drivers side rear axle shaft. The tire has a good wobble to it, but surprisingly it does not make the jeep shake or feel unstable. Hoping someone can confirm based on the attached video, if so...

Only pulled the transmission & transfer case, flywheel and clutch are still attached to the block.

I was thinking maybe I over torqued the pressure plate bolts causing the clutch to not work correctly, but my knowledge on this is limited at best. I believe it was in neutral before I dropped the trans. Full disclosure the Jeep was in 3ish feet of water/mud before it died so it’s entirely...

Update…. Battery was good, could turn over engine by hand with breaker bar, but really hard. I dropped the transmission and now I can turn it over by hand easily. I’m thinking I messed up something when installing the new clutch which caused it to be stuck in gear. Maybe tightened the...

I just got done installing a rebuilt 4.0 engine into my 98 w/AX-15. I filled it up w/break in oil, manually primed the oil pump, set the distributor timing and tried to start it. When I turned the key I could hear the oil pump start and the starter engage, but it would not turn the engine...

I really like 303 UV Protectant Spray.

Here you go: How to change early style slider HVAC knobs to later style turn knobs

I saw a write up for this somewhere, I too have the sliders and would prefer the dial knobs... but after looking at the write up decided I am okay with the sliders ;-)

I don't have any first hand experience with the LUK kit or anything supplied with it. In reading reviews I see several people stating they have replaced the provided pilot and throw out bearings with "upgrades". Given the low cost of the "upgrades" and effort involved with replacing a clutch...

Amen to that!

The reviews on the National throw out bearing are about as bad as the reviews with the one included in the Luk kit... decisions decisions!

I am replacing my 4.0 after bending a valve/cracking the head & thinking I might as well replace the clutch while I have it all apart. I am getting the Luk 05-065 clutch kit but have read bad things about the included throw out bearing. What would be the correct upgrade for a throw out...

They look to be BestTop sliders, I have the same set. I got a bunch of mud in mine after a day of fun and decided to take them apart to clean. You can take them apart, but it is not easy. The biggest issue you will run into is that the two latches which hold the windows closed are connected...

Yep, I hear it click on for 3-4 seconds when turning the key to run. I have made a habit of leaving it the run position for a couple seconds before starting it.

Follow up question, when testing spark and/or compression do I need to cut off the fuel system? And if so, how would I go about this? This is for an engine that turns over fine, but does not start.

That’s it, thanks!

My 98 TJ will crank over fine but won't start. I know I read a thread posted by Chris a while back listing out the things to check for debugging and I have searched for it with no luck. Can someone direct me to this thread? My plan is to test for spark, fuel then compression and really hope...

They push the lines of what most would probably consider modern bluegrass... but I am a big Split Lip Rayfield fan.