2003-2006 Hardtop Wiring

Having some similar problems getting my rear window defroster to work. I have a 2005 RHD TJ that was wired for hardtop from factory. I have a working rear wiper and pump, and defroster connections on the glass look good, but the rear defroster switch doesn't appear to work making me think there's issue up front, or at the fuse/relay box.

Hoping for some help diagnosing the problem. All fuses and relays appear present and correct to my knowledge (I haven't inspected fuse #15 yet, but I will after work in case it is as simple as that), but the switch in the cab doesn't illuminate. Is it also supposed to stick down once activated on a timer? I'm guessing it may be a broken switch? I bought my TJ in the warmer months and it's its first winter with me, so it may not have worked for years for all I know.
 
Have you checked the 40A fuse under the hood in addition to #15 fuse behind the glovebox? Have you confirmed that you actually aren't getting power to the defroster grid? It's possible that the indicator bulb on the switch is bad. You can check this by starting the Jeep, pressing the defrost switch, and then putting a multimeter on the two defrost connections on the rear glass. You should see 12v there if the system is working.
 
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Rcroane is right. I will also add that the switch doesn't "stay down" when you engaged...neither the defogger or rear wiper. The Rear wiper will "stay up" when you lift the switch.
 
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Thanks for this. Fuses all look ok, and just moved cities so need to go pick up a new multimeter to check if its getting 12v at the rear glass. Failing that I assume it'll be new switch time!
Rcroane said:
Have you checked the 40A fuse under the hood in addition to #15 fuse behind the glovebox? Have you confirmed that you actually aren't getting power to the defroster grid? It's possible that the indicator bulb on the switch is bad. You can check this by starting the Jeep, pressing the defrost switch, and then putting a multimeter on the two defrost connections on the rear glass. You should see 12v there if the system is working.
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AdelaideTJ said:
Thanks for this. Fuses all look ok, and just moved cities so need to go pick up a new multimeter to check if its getting 12v at the rear glass. Failing that I assume it'll be new switch time!
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If no power to the rear glass, you can use the multimeter to see if you are getting power to the switch. If yes, I think that would confirm that the switch is bad.
 
Rcroane said:
If no power to the rear glass, you can use the multimeter to see if you are getting power to the switch. If yes, I think that would confirm that the switch is bad.
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Or that could also be indicative of a break in the wire between the switch and the rear glass. When checking the switch to see if there's +12V going into the switch, you can also check to see if the switch is passing +12V out of the switch when switched on.
 
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deadbeat son said:
Or that could also be indicative of a break in the wire between the switch and the rear glass. When checking the switch to see if there's +12V going into the switch, you can also check to see if the switch is passing +12V out of the switch when switched on.
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Could it also mean a possible break somewhere in the defrost grid?
 
Scoutmapper said:
I am thinking about doing a write-up on making your own harness too since its so similar and avoids some of the terminal pins but not all. I'd say the hard part of making your own harness would be figuring out what terminal pins you need to fit the factory connectors. Some cannot be avoided unless you start cutting your harness which is worrisome. The upside to making your own harness is you can do inline fuses and bypass C202 connectors but that is about all. You still need to add terminal pins to C170, C107, and C2 the instrument cluster.
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Is there a write up yet for just adding rear defrost and the rear wiper with some flip switches?? Im assuming theres blank fuse holders in a fuse block. Havent read WHOLE thread yet

Im thinkin just 2 circuits to splice in cant be as complex as sourcing an OEM rear harness and all this.

Could also bypass the OEM plug and just put in a Metripack / Weatherpack connector
 
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CreepinDeth said:
Is there a write up yet for just adding rear defrost and the rear wiper with some flip switches?? Im assuming theres blank fuse holders in a fuse block. Havent read WHOLE thread yet

Im thinkin just 2 circuits to splice in cant be as complex as sourcing an OEM rear harness and all this.

Could also bypass the OEM plug and just put in a Metripack / Weatherpack connector
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I haven't read through this, but the title suggests it might help.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/simple-tj-hardtop-wiring-harness.28637/
 
Scoutmapper,

First off great write up, excellent detail and myself and others can’t thank you enough for this. I’m in the process of wiring a factory hardtop on my 04 and I’m going to do it as factory as possible. I know many bypass C202, but having pulled the dash on numerous TJ’s to do heatercores I see a huge disadvantage of bypassing it. Being able to unplug the three main connectors on the lock panel makes it a snap to get the dash off and out. So far I have fully pulled all the wires, terminals from all cavities from a factory hardtop equipped 04 TJ tub harness. (I also have the factory dash harness that I’ll be pulling the needed wires for the install).

My questions are:
1. Did you run your tub wires through the factory plastic wire loom or did you tuck it up behind somehow using the 1/4” split loom?
2. The wires behind the dash, did you pull the original harness and add the needed wires and wrap it back up like the factory with non-adhesive vinyl tape or did you just route the wires along the harness taping every so often? The latter sounds like a time saver.
Thank you again for putting this together and sharing it with all it has been a huge benefit.
 
I have finally finished the factory hardtop wiring. Everything is working 100%. I went a step above to ensure it was nearly identical to how the factory installed it by de-pinning everything from a donor tub harness, unwrapping the factory plastic wire mold channel and concealing all the hardtop wires and washer fluid tube inside rewrapping it using non-adhesive vinyl tape and finishing the ends with cloth tape. I wasn’t about to pull the dash to remove the factory tub harness. I ran the three wires to fuse block in mesh tubing routing it next to the factory harness and securing it with zip-ties. I was fortunate and able to locate a factory Rubicon dash harness with hardtop option for a $100.00. I removed the factory dash harness and replaced it with the donor harness. (This was the worst part of the whole project, cut knuckles and removing the Christmas tree zip-ties on the underside of the dash was the most challenging. I have small hands and can’t imagine how someone with larger hands could manage to do it.) After getting everything tied in I found my rocker switch lights were burned out. I replaced those with LED T4’s along with HVAC lights as two of those were burned out as well. Before actually screwing dash panels back together I checked all functions and everything worked as designed. I won’t list all the items I purchased as it has been listed in previous posts but in it ended up costing about $300.00. (Thanks eBay)

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