4.0 timing issues

I dont believe it has to be at any given position. (Others can correct me) but I am pretty sure the cam sensor lets the ECU know what piston its on and the ticks on the flywheel are for crank angle. Once the cam position sensor sees the #1 piston at TDC it correlates the crank sensor accordingly.
So what he hell could be going on here... I am at a complete lose and have redundantly done everything except take a sledge hammer to it.
 
Ok, spent a few brain cells on this. Only thing that seems possible is if somehow the cylinders are firing out of order. Haven't figured out how, but that is all I've come up with. Hopefully someone smarter than I am can be of more help. Wrong computer? Wrong sensor? Having the engine already pulled means you don't know if PO accidentally swapped sensor input wires or installed a 4 cyl part somewhere. Sorry.
 
Ok, spent a few brain cells on this. Only thing that seems possible is if somehow the cylinders are firing out of order. Haven't figured out how, but that is all I've come up with. Hopefully someone smarter than I am can be of more help. Wrong computer? Wrong sensor? Having the engine already pulled means you don't know if PO accidentally swapped sensor input wires or installed a 4 cyl part somewhere. Sorry.
I have been scratching my head about this one too.
@Scorpa Have you tried doing a continuity check from the ECU to each connector? Also check all your grounds, it is amazing what a bad ground can do. If you swapped the whole engine, sensors and all, it must be electrical!!
 
I have been scratching my head about this one too.
@Scorpa Have you tried doing a continuity check from the ECU to each connector? Also check all your grounds, it is amazing what a bad ground can do. If you swapped the whole engine, sensors and all, it must be electrical!!
Yes to all of that. Checked each wire on the ecu for continuity, checked all grounds, I even gave each sensor it's own ground. I overlaid the power, input wires going to the cam and crank sensors. None of it make any difference. I have has at least six very experienced mechanics looking at this for weeks and they have thrown everything they know at it and nothing makes a difference. I'm beyond angry, and frustrated at this point I have just become weary of the whole damn thing. I called Chrysler and spoke to a tech and after telling him all that has been done he said.... that can't be possible.... Ya, you think.
 
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Yes to all of that. Checked each wire on the ecu for continuity, checked all grounds, I even gave each sensor it's own ground. I overlaid the power, input wires going to the cam and crank sensors. None of it make any difference. I have has at least six very experienced mechanics looking at this for weeks and they have thrown everything they know at it and nothing makes a difference. I'm beyond angry, and frustrated at this point I have just become weary of the whole damn thing. I called Chrysler and spoke to a tech and after telling him all that has been done he said.... that can't be possible.... Ya, you think.
Sux man that you're on the other side of the states or I would come check it out. Something is being overlooked. You said there is wear on the flywheel pickups, what do you mean?
 
Yes to all of that. Checked each wire on the ecu for continuity, checked all grounds, I even gave each sensor it's own ground. I overlaid the power, input wires going to the cam and crank sensors. None of it make any difference. I have has at least six very experienced mechanics looking at this for weeks and they have thrown everything they know at it and nothing makes a difference. I'm beyond angry, and frustrated at this point I have just become weary of the whole damn thing. I called Chrysler and spoke to a tech and after telling him all that has been done he said.... that can't be possible.... Ya, you think.

The Flywheel needs to be verified with a scope.

Ockhams Razor...
 
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I dont believe it has to be at any given position. (Others can correct me) but I am pretty sure the cam sensor lets the ECU know what piston its on and the ticks on the flywheel are for crank angle. Once the cam position sensor sees the #1 piston at TDC it correlates the crank sensor accordingly.

I believe that is correct too, assuming the clocking signals are not fragmented or otherwise distorted.
 
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The Flywheel needs to be verified with a scope.

Ockhams Razor...
+1, I know, @Scorpa, you had a shop put your Jeep on a diagnostic machine but I don't trust they had a good grasp on what there were doing considering they did not isolate the problem. I would take it to a dealership (as much as I hate these assholes) and specifically ask them to check the crank sensors signal. Or just get a second opinion from someone else with a diagnostic system.
 
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Are you absolutely 100% sure, checked them yourself, your coil power plugs and spark plug wires are correct?
 
Thank you guys very much for all of the input that I'm getting. I personally checked a lot of this stuff but I have no way of running any diagnostics other that a $1,200 OBD analyzer (It has never thrown a code on my machine or any other
). The shops analyzer says everything is within parameters. I will probably have to take it to the dealership so they bill me $100 /hour for doing redundant stuff that's already been done. It may take a while but I will follow up with you guys, whatever happens.... Thanks again.
 
Hey, would any of you guy know of a good resource when I can get a bellhousing adaptor? I just might do an LS swap, I have several 4.8 and 5.3's just waiting to go somewhere. I would use the Jeep 6 speed manual. For lite trail and highway use only, with 33"
 
So how did a rocker arm just bend?

Was there an event that caused it?


Seems unusual for an engine known for reliability that ran fine for 50k miles for that to happen.
 
I bought it that way. Who knows.
What I'm getting at is maybe it was hydrolocked and in addition to fubaring the valve train, the water corroded the wiring harness/sensors.

Being that you tried 2 engines with the same result, it's not the engine.
 
What parts from before you pulled the 1st engine are being reused? It has to be down to something that has been in use prior to that first engine coming out. And swapping in an LS may have you right where you are now. Something as stupid as the clutch safety could do it. I'm starting to think it must be some non-engine system that would prevent the engine system from working. I am far from an electrical guy, but something in the brakes that has a safety to stop it from starting. Like a proportioning valve? Neutral safety switch? A/c compressor lock? Clutch system or drivetrain system. 4wd lock out? I just throwing thoughts. Sorry. I am pretty sure when you finally get it going we all will be thinking how obviously that was it.
 
Al

All I know is, that he confirmed I had the engine on TDC #1 cylinder and the OPDM was correct but yet it was out 120 degrees. He used his machine to calibrate the OPDM to match TDC. I personally have never see anything like this in all my years of do this stuff. It seem like the usual straight forward mechanical alignment, but it's not.... somehow.

Crap, I had OPDM replaced 2 years ago and it hasn't ran right since.