I've been trying to remove my driver side rear axle shaft from my Dana 35. It's a Yukon shaft with a TrueTrac LSD. It took a ton of pounding with a sledge hammer to get access to remove the C clip, and now I'm trying to pound the axle out from the other side using some bar stock. I tried PB blaster on the splines, but I am getting nowhere. Are there any tricks to help remove a stuck axle or do I just need a bigger hammer?
Axle Shaft Stuck - Bigger Hammer?
- Thread starter C5TJ
- Start date
See if one of your local parts stores has a slide hammer with an axle puller foot to rent. Makes quick work of it.
Very cool, I haven't seen the axle foot before! I'll check into it. Thanks!
KennethS
TJ Enthusiast
I use a length of chain and the tire/wheel. Chain attached to the axle shaft and through the center opening in the wheel. The mass of the wheel/tire is enough to easily pop the axle shaft out.
That's a good idea! I'm sure that 70+ lb wheel and tire combo can put much more force into the axle than me swinging my 4lb hammer. 
Go to the flange on the shaft and move it up and down or try to. There is a chance you have 4340 shafts which may have a groove worn in there where the bearing rides. If so, you are trying to smack out the bearing and seal while trying to also remove the shaft. The other reason it may be fighting you is the housing is bent.
I had similar issue on my wife’s JK, was finally able to manage to get it out. But was thinking the same, am I doing something wrong. I think the axle puller is a good option.
It does have a bit of play up and down, maybe a few thousandths?
I wouldn't be surprised if the housing is slightly bent or there is a groove from the bearing. I had to limp it off of a pretty rocky trail when the other shaft broke, so I'm still trying to assess all of the damage from that experience.
You should have led with that. If you broke a shaft, that means it is possible the other side was highly stressed as well. If so, then very possible that the splines are twisted right where they enter the side gear and you had to beat the crap out of it to get it to move over far enough to get the c-clip out and now you have to beat it about the same to drive it back out. A few thou play won't get it stuck. 1/8" is what usually indicates a groove.
I know a gent who is about to have that axle for sale if you discover a bent housing. Good condition Super 35.
Yeah, it definitely doesn't have 1/8" of play in it. The passenger side rear axle shaft grenaded at the splines, and it was pretty easy to get it out. Unfortunately, when it broke it took about 1/4 of the circumference of the bearing race (closest to the LSD) with it...which is why I'm trying to remove the (hopefully) unbroken shaft. Once both shafts are out, I plan to remove the LSD and see if bearings can be replaced and housing can be salvaged.
How do you tell if the housing is bent? It looks ok to my very untrained eye, and the shaft spins ok.
I may be interested in the Super 35, especially if the gears are low and there's an ARB in it.
Usually the first clue is having to beat the shafts out of the carrier.
Spinning okay is only telling you that shaft isn't bent.
Well, I gave it around a hundred hits with the slide hammer and it hasn't budged. I'm thinking this is a lost cause...
I feel for you... sometimes it's the 101st hit that's the one.
Do you have and angle finder? Especially one of those digital ones?
Zero it out on the spring perch on one axis, compare it to the other side and then check the other. Not definitive...but it's information.
Got a torch?
-Mac
Do you have and angle finder? Especially one of those digital ones?
Zero it out on the spring perch on one axis, compare it to the other side and then check the other. Not definitive...but it's information.
Got a torch?
-Mac
Just wanted to say thanks for the help from everyone. I ended up swapping in a Dana 44, only to find I had massive driveline vibes only while on the gas. Got some new LCAs to adjust the pinion angle, but that didn't solve it. After replacing a U joint and almost giving up, a local shop suggested I check the T case output shaft. It ended up being pretty bent, so I took the opportunity to install an SYE and DC driveshaft. Now, it's back together and running like a champ after a few very good excuses to upgrade!