Bedliner on fender flares?

JMT said:
I just buy new flares. It's $130 for Omix. Avoid Crown. You get new stainless hardware, worth it in my mind since materials alone to re-paint will be in the $70 range, and who knows after 2-3 years. I like to do something once and wait 10-15 years, not 2-3. My .02c.
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Today the stuff I bought is about $53 out the door at O'Reilly and how does six years pictured above turn into 2-3? I'm sure the Omix flares are a good option but aren't they obviously a little worse than the factory ones as far as quality?

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-the-bottom-of-the-tub-edge.48557/post-837548
 
JMT said:
I just buy new flares. It's $130 for Omix. Avoid Crown. You get new stainless hardware, worth it in my mind since materials alone to re-paint will be in the $70 range, and who knows after 2-3 years. I like to do something once and wait 10-15 years, not 2-3. My .02c.
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Worth about that much in a thread about bed lining flares😉

just messing with ya Jeremy
 
pagrey said:
Today the stuff I bought is about $53 out the door at O'Reilly and how does six years pictured above turn into 2-3? I'm sure the Omix flares are a good option but aren't they obviously a little worse than the factory ones as far as quality?

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-the-bottom-of-the-tub-edge.48557/post-837548
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The OMIX I installed fit great. I didn't notice any quality degradation from factory. No one knows about the longevity of painting a set of factory exactly, since it all depends on prep (owner dependent) and paint (which is factory dependent on quality and consistency of product.) No one knows about the longevity of OMIX unless you know someone who's had a set for 15 years, which is highly unlikely. However, if you start with a fresh set, you can always paint them later if you're not happy. As I said, this is my 0.2 cents. If you don't like it, it's not much loss. All I can say is me and my twins were very happy. It's your decision. I researched SEM paint prep procedures and costs and decided it was NOT worth it to me to go that route. Every owner has to decide for themselves.

Factory
79DBC079-EEA4-4A17-ABA8-B4A0EDF7AB7B.jpeg

Omix
5DA36539-E805-46D1-9751-07A00486028F.jpeg
 
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LONGJP2 said:
I wonder if there's a difference between the standard flares and the Rubicon/Sahara flares.
The wider ones are all painted, from the factory.
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I have heard people say all the wider flares (Rubi and Sahara) are painted but I'm not convinced my stock Rubicon flares were painted black. It looks like black plastic that is sun faded. The sides of my Jeep have substantial scratches from branches off road and my flares do not show any of that.
 
Your Jeeps look great @JMT. I'd say report back in six years but you there and we here and UV blah blah blah. Nevermind.

@Viking Jeeper paint fades, you should see my hood. Some Jeeps had color coded flares too. I've seen heavily damaged black Rubicon flares and the outer surface was different, that doesn't mean it was paint, just some different treatment.
 
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pagrey said:
Your Jeeps look great @JMT. I'd say report back in six years but you there and we here and UV blah blah blah. Nevermind.

@Viking Jeeper paint fades, you should see my hood. Some Jeeps had color coded flares too. I've seen heavily damaged black Rubicon flares and the outer surface was different, that doesn't mean it was paint, just some different treatment.
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I also have a used set of painted Sahara flares to compare to and that is what finally convinced me my rubicon flares were not painted.
 
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pagrey said:
Your Jeeps look great @JMT. I'd say report back in six years but you there and we here and UV blah blah blah. Nevermind.

@Viking Jeeper paint fades, you should see my hood. Some Jeeps had color coded flares too. I've seen heavily damaged black Rubicon flares and the outer surface was different, that doesn't mean it was paint, just some different treatment.
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LOL! We get quite a few sunny days on the E side of WA, not like the W side. I'm sure I'll remember to report back. Some things I don't forget. Just remember, we're talking the difference of somewhere around $80 max, $58 min, or even way less, since Chris used 4 cans per flare years ago, which means way more expensive than buying OMIX. I'd quote the post and link, but I'm too lazy to look it up again. The time it took to prep talked me out of painting the flares. Just not worth it to me, but that's only my .02 cents, and I wouldn't want to step on anyone's toes or claim they wasted their time and money. Not my style. To each his own.
 
pagrey said:
Your Jeeps look great @JMT. I'd say report back in six years but you there and we here and UV blah blah blah. Nevermind.

@Viking Jeeper paint fades, you should see my hood. Some Jeeps had color coded flares too. I've seen heavily damaged black Rubicon flares and the outer surface was different, that doesn't mean it was paint, just some different treatment.
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One of the problems with TJ's is that most didn't come with an insulated hood. The heat leads to crows feet, which is irreparable apart from a re-paint. I suspect that many of us have poor hoods while the rest of the Jeep's paint is pretty good.
 
LJs had the insulation for noise reduction. Mine had it but unfortunately mine was made when they transitioned to eco friendly paint. It simply didn't work out. I've also been stuck in several sand storms and that didn't help. I don't fault Jeep, it hasn't rusted out and I haven't exactly treated it well. I also live where summer temperatures are 110+ every year for a few days and travel to places in excess of 120. That doesn't help either. I have sections on my hood over 1" square that are down to the primer, it is rough. Garaged and driven conservatively it would probably look perfect, I have no doubt. I bought two cans for my flares and used one and the second has enough for my speaker pods. I'll probably do those now that I'm thinking about all this.
LONGJP2 said:
Honestly, I didn't think so either; but Blaine set me straight.
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Sounds like those flares need the adhesion promoter as well. Good information if anybody is considering painting them, with bed liner.
 
I did the Rust-Oleum bed liner in a spray can about 4 years ago on my Rubicon. It's still holding up great. I like the Rust-Oleum because it's a much finer texture than something like raptor liner.

From when I did it...

20180331_165508.jpg


And today (like I literally just took the picture)
IMG_20210703_202201458.jpg


AFAIR, I scrubbed them with a green scotch Brite and dawn dish soap, then wiped them down with denatured alcohol (my go to for cleaning plastic). Next step was duplicolor adhesion promoter. Then the bed liner.

One thing to remember when painting old flares... If anyone used armor all or any other plastic restorer, you're going to have a tough time painting them. Doesn't matter how long is been since the product was applied. Those products almost universally contain silicone, which is how they shine up the plastic. Silicone is nearly impossible to remove chemically. You need to mechanically remove it... Like sand it off and expose "new" plastic. @Moab I'd wager that is why you're having issues. At this point, you'd be better off buying new. Too bad they don't sell the Rubicon flares anymore...
 
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Mike_H said:
I did the Rust-Oleum bed liner in a spray can about 4 years ago on my Rubicon. It's still holding up great. I like the Rust-Oleum because it's a much finer texture than something like raptor liner.

From when I did it...

View attachment 263052

And today (like I literally just took the picture)
View attachment 263053

AFAIR, I scrubbed them with a green scotch Brite and dawn dish soap, then wiped them down with denatured alcohol (my go to for cleaning plastic). Next step was duplicolor adhesion promoter. Then the bed liner.

One thing to remember when painting old flares... If anyone used armor all or any other plastic restorer, you're going to have a tough time painting them. Doesn't matter how long is been since the product was applied. Those products almost universally contain silicone, which is how they shine up the plastic. Silicone is nearly impossible to remove chemically. You need to mechanically remove it... Like sand it off and expose "new" plastic. @Moab I'd wager that is why you're having issues. At this point, you'd be better off buying new. Too bad they don't sell the Rubicon flares anymore...
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Exactly, and if @Moab, if you want Rubicon flares, just buy my Rubi, that’s the only way I could get a set. 🤣

Thread '2003 Rookie Year TJR'
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/2003-rookie-year-tjr.52510/
 
Moab said:
Thread stealer!!!!! Lmao! ;)

Ya. Thats one of the reasons ill never use rubicon flares. Talk about unobtainium! I do need a set of oem tj flares if u find any?
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I have a set of stock TJ flares. They need to be worked over to look good. Front passenger has some minor pinstriping near the turn signal. I could work it out to level it. I don’t want anything for them if you’re interested.
 
JMT said:
I have a set of stock TJ flares. They need to be worked over to look good. Front passenger has some minor pinstriping near the turn signal. I could work it out to level it. I don’t want anything for them if you’re interested.
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That is very generous. But im looking for some nos ones. Or something close. Otherwise ill just paint mine again. They are in perfect shape.
 
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