Best replacement flywheel for 2002 4.0?
- Thread starter Bochad01
- Start date
Why do you need a new flywheel? It's not considered a normally replaced part for, example, a clutch job.
The LuK flywheel is a good factory style replacement, especially for the cost.
I went with a Centerforce High Inertia flywheel, which is significantly heavier than stock. Makes it next to impossible to stall, and smooths out the pulsing when moving along at idle.
It is much more expensive than the LuK though.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/centerforce/high-inertia-flywheel-jeep-vehicles-40l-enginePick up a set of ARP flywheel bolts if you buy this one, as the heavier flywheel can add stress to the bolts.
I went with a Centerforce High Inertia flywheel, which is significantly heavier than stock. Makes it next to impossible to stall, and smooths out the pulsing when moving along at idle.
It is much more expensive than the LuK though.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/centerforce/high-inertia-flywheel-jeep-vehicles-40l-enginePick up a set of ARP flywheel bolts if you buy this one, as the heavier flywheel can add stress to the bolts.
One of my classmates recommended replacing it if I was replacing my clutch to prevent premature wearing
They should hold, but generally it is a good idea to replace flywheel bolts with the flywheel. The ARP bolts are much stronger and aren’t terribly expensive compared to factory.
ARP (146-2801) Flywheel Bolt Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKACI9S/?tag=wranglerorg-20
They’re also a good idea if you plan to significantly increase engine power, such as with a supercharger or stroker.
You should always replace the flywheel bolts. They are considered "one time torque" bolts.
From the FSM:
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent. Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over- tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing runout.
From the FSM:
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent. Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over- tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing runout.
I don't plan to really bump power any time soon, my TOB was bad, and Clutch was breaking apart, doing a rear main seal as well, was told to replace the flywheel which im deciding on, which will be paired to a Centerforce dual friction clutch.
At some point down the road Im planning to either Build the 4.0L, Lt Swap it, or Diesel swap it.
Might throw in some other goodies if i have any extra cash when all the parts come in.
It’s probably only a $5 difference between the factory bolts and the ARP flywheel bolts. RockAuto has the factory bolts at about $25, the ARP bolts can usually be found for $30 or less.
I’d recommend sticking with the factory LuK clutch over a centerforce clutch. The holding power of the factory clutch far exceeds the torque output of the engine, even if the engine is significantly modified. The LuK clutch is designed to engage smoothly, and people routinely get 200k miles on them.
Your classmate doesn't know what he's talking about. If the flywheel is damaged, replace it. If it isn't damaged, it's still good. The clutch is a wear part, the flywheel is not. At the most the flywheel sometimes gets a little glazing on its surface but that is easily removed with a little fine-grade sandpaper or emery cloth.
Again, the flywheel is not normally replaced simply because the clutch is being replaced. Sometimes a shop will unnecessarily recommend replacing it since they make more $$$ with the extra parts and labor costs.
Don't let anyone talk you into turning (machining) the flywheel either. It has a convex dome shape on its outer surface that most machines will remove since few are able to maintain that dome-shaped contour. This is right out of the Jeep Factory Service Manual.