Bolt on transmission skid plate bolts spin

BobK

BobK

TJ Enthusiast
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Apr 11, 2019
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386
Location
Parker, TX
Well, I had my morning all planned out. I was going to replace the speedometer o-ring to stop a leak there (flattened old o-ring), drop the transmission skid plate, drain the transmission, replace the filter and filter o-ring, re-fill the transmission and plan out my coolant lines to go the B&M tranny cooler that I acquired.

I got the speedometer o-ring dealt with in ten minutes, fifteen if you include de-greasing the bolt, clamp, and sensor. I then pulled up my 1/2 socket wrench with 18mm socket to remove the two cross member bolts (one on each side) I decided not to use my impact wrench since I've heard of folks breaking the bolts. I used the wrench to break it free, only to find that no matter how many times I turned it, the bolt was not coming out. You guessed it, the captive nut apparently broke loose, therefore my hopes of getting to the transmission were dashed.

I don't see a good way to get to the captive nut since its obviously inside the frame. This does not bode well for my planned body lift and needing to remove all the body bolts. The underside of my Jeep is virtually rust free. The skid plates and frame are still painted black from the factory, where there is rust, it is only very mild surface rust that is easily removed. I had already used PB Blaster on the bolts on the transmission skid to the transfer case skid, but hadn't sprayed the two cross member bolts.

So my questions are:

1) How do I get the two cross member bolts out?

2) If this happens with the body bolts, what to do? Hopefully, this doesn't happen, but I'd like to be prepared.
 
BobK said:
Well, I had my morning all planned out. I was going to replace the speedometer o-ring to stop a leak there (flattened old o-ring), drop the transmission skid plate, drain the transmission, replace the filter and filter o-ring, re-fill the transmission and plan out my coolant lines to go the B&M tranny cooler that I acquired.

I got the speedometer o-ring dealt with in ten minutes, fifteen if you include de-greasing the bolt, clamp, and sensor. I then pulled up my 1/2 socket wrench with 18mm socket to remove the two cross member bolts (one on each side) I decided not to use my impact wrench since I've heard of folks breaking the bolts. I used the wrench to break it free, only to find that no matter how many times I turned it, the bolt was not coming out. You guessed it, the captive nut apparently broke loose, therefore my hopes of getting to the transmission were dashed.

I don't see a good way to get to the captive nut since its obviously inside the frame. This does not bode well for my planned body lift and needing to remove all the body bolts. The underside of my Jeep is virtually rust free. The skid plates and frame are still painted black from the factory, where there is rust, it is only very mild surface rust that is easily removed. I had already used PB Blaster on the bolts on the transmission skid to the transfer case skid, but hadn't sprayed the two cross member bolts.

So my questions are:

1) How do I get the two cross member bolts out?

2) If this happens with the body bolts, what to do? Hopefully, this doesn't happen, but I'd like to be prepared.
Click to expand...
Pry down on the skid and try tightening it with the impact. That sometimes resets the nutsert (not captive nut) and will allow you to remove it.
 
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Is it possible to replace the nusert if/when I get the bolt out, or is it pressed into the frame permanently?
 
You can replace them. I replaced one of the same ones on mine. Be sure to use grade 8 bolts if you need to make the tool. I tried using grade 5 because that's what I happen to have on hand. They aren't strong enough.

These are for a stock skid plate with no drop. They have some available for if you do have a dropped skid. Instructions on how to make the tool and use it are on there too.

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...c-Transmission-Skid-Nutsert-Kit-6M-NSK-6M.htm
 
Michael2006 said:
I just dropped the skid plate today. I feel so lucky I didn't have to replace a nutsert.
Here's a video of a bolt being removed. it's the inside of the frame.
Click to expand...


That's amazing......show off...LOL. Glad you got yours out, I plan on tackling it again tomorrow.
 
As a former boss of mine used to say "when faced with eating a turd, better to do it one big gulp than lick it all day long". I went out to the Jeep today, quickly tried all of the suggestions I'd received (pry it down while loosening the bolt, use the impact wrench to tighten it, then try loosening it, etc.). In the end, I pulled out the Dremel cutting wheel again and cut off the bolt head. The good news is the skid plate is off (see pics below) but the remainder of the nutsert and the bolt are trapped in the frame. I'm guessing they will rattle until I figure out how to get them out.

In the meantime, I dropped the transmission oil pan, drained all the fluid, replaced the filter and o-ring that holds it in place, and used Permatex and a gasket (after a thorough cleaning) to re-mount the oil pan. The skid plate will stay off until I get a new nutserts and bolts (Grade 8) and until I re-fill the tranny with fluid and ensure there are no leaks.

As I've mentioned before, this Jeep has no rust on the body or the frame. Thank goodness for two-owner garage kept Texas Jeeps!

IMG_0488.jpeg
IMG_0489.jpeg
 
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I tried fishing mine out with some string and a magnet but couldn't get it. As far as I know its still in there but I never hear it.
 
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What I tried was about 6 feet of string, then tied a round magnet on, then about 6 more feet of string. I stuffed the 1st 3 feet of string into a hole, used my air compressor to blow the string down to another hole, then pulled the sting out while pulling the magnet into the frame. Then I just kind of went back and forth with the string like flossing. Never did grab the bolt and nutsert.
 
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MountaineerTom said:
What I tried was about 6 feet of string, then tied a round magnet on, then about 6 more feet of string. I stuffed the 1st 3 feet of string into a hole, used my air compressor to blow the string down to another hole, then pulled the sting out while pulling the magnet into the frame. Then I just kind of went back and forth with the string like flossing. Never did grab the bolt and nutsert.
Click to expand...

I hate admitting defeat, so after I read your first post about string, I had a brainstorm and went back out into the garage and Excelsior!!! I got it out.

First I got one of those bendy grabbers that I use to snag dropped nuts and bolts deep into the engine compartment and taped a rare earth magnet to it. Then I fished up and down the frame channel until I snagged it. Then I drug it to the opening and clamped down on it with vice grips. I then took out my handy Dremel and cut one side of the interior of the nursert off, so that it would fit through the frame hole. See pics below.

IMG_0490.jpeg
IMG_0491.jpeg
 
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BobK said:
I hate admitting defeat, so after I read your first post about string, I had a brainstorm and went back out into the garage and Excelsior!!! I got it out.

First I got one of those bendy grabbers that I use to snag dropped nuts and bolts deep into the engine compartment and taped a rare earth magnet to it. Then I fished up and down the frame channel until I snagged it. Then I drug it to the opening and clamped down on it with vice grips. I then took out my handy Dremel and cut one side of the interior of the nursert off, so that it would fit through the frame hole. See pics below.

View attachment 96146View attachment 96147
Click to expand...

Glad that you got a hold of that nutsert! I would have done the same! I wouldn't go to bed peacefully thinking that the nutsert would be inside the frame for eons....

Also, did you manage to fix the issue of the nutsert? If so, how?
 
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