Broken hitch bolt in frame

9nick0

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May 13, 2021
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I managed to break 2 of the trailer hitch bolts in my 1997 as I was removing it to have better access to the fuel tank. They just twisted right off. I thought they were coming loose and didn't think I applied that much pressure. Any idea on how to remedy this issue? Could and should I weld the hitch to the frame or what's the method for fixing this mess.

IMG-6078.webp


IMG-6077 (1).webp
 
Since you can get to it easily, I'd try to drill it for a bolt extractor, heat it, and try to remove it. If it broke cold, it likely will not come out without heat.
 
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I would try drilling out the the rest of the bolt before I did something permanent. At best the bolt breaks apart as your stepping up in drill bit sizes and you won't have to re-tap it. At worst, you need to step up to the next bolt size and tap new threads.
 
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I would try drilling out the the rest of the bolt before I did something permanent. At best the bolt breaks apart as your stepping up in drill bit sizes and you won't have to re-tap it. At worst, you need to step up to the next bolt size and tap new threads.
Best answer. Never drilled out a bolt is it as simple as that? Start small and work up and hope it doesn't require a rethread?
 
Yes. I'd get some higher quality carbide tipped bits start small, go slow, & use cutting oil to keep the bit cool (you might need to get a small spray bottle since the hole is inverted). Once the tip gets too hot, it's useless. The smaller bits are prone to breaking under even a small amount of pressure but I've found starting a very small hole first saves you a lot of time as you are stepping up sizes.

Sometimes the bolt will break apart once you have drilled enough out, sometimes not. If you manage to stay centered on the bolt you might be able to reuse the threads if the new bolt has a thread or two to grab at the beginning and you can "re-tap" the hole with the same size bolt. If there is nothing to grab, then you'll have to tap a new hole
 
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Yes. I'd get some higher quality carbide tipped bits start small, go slow, & use cutting oil to keep the bit cool (you might need to get a small spray bottle since the hole is inverted). Once the tip gets too hot, it's useless. The smaller bits are prone to breaking under even a small amount of pressure but I've found starting a very small hole first saves you a lot of time as you are stepping up sizes.

Sometimes the bolt will break apart once you have drilled enough out, sometimes not. If you manage to stay centered on the bolt you might be able to reuse the threads if the new bolt has a thread or two to grab at the beginning and you can "re-tap" the hole with the same size bolt. If there is nothing to grab, then you'll have to tap a new hole
Sounds like the right reason for me to get that more expensive drill bit kit I've had an eye on then and haven't pulled the trigger on yet. Thanks for the advice will let you guys know how it goes.
 
Sounds like the right reason for me to get that more expensive drill bit kit I've had an eye on then and haven't pulled the trigger on yet. Thanks for the advice will let you guys know how it goes.
Harbor Freight will be your friend. They will last long enough to get the job done but are cheap enough to toss when your done.
 
IF you remove the receiver hitch and have someone weld a nut to the remnants of the broken bolts; the heat will loosen the rusty bond between the broken bolt and threaded bracket then you can spin out the broken bolts.
 
Best answer. Never drilled out a bolt is it as simple as that? Start small and work up and hope it doesn't require a rethread?
With due respect to Rob, who gave good advice, that approach should be a last resort. Since you have never done this before, it will be almost impossible for you to get your hole centered, and as you step up in bit sizes you will most likely destroy the threads before getting the bolt completely drilled out. Rob is correct in that you may in fact have to ultimately try to drill it all the way out, but take an interim step along the way per my post above.

The bolt is likely a grade 5, and possibly a grade 8. That will make it very difficult to drill, and a cheap bit will not do it.

First, heat it with a torch - MAP gas will work, propane will not - and let it cool. If the bolt is hardened, that will anneal it and make it possible to drill (thank @WSS for that piece of advice). Then center punch it and drill a pilot hole - trying to keep it centered and straight as best you can.

This is a bolt extractor:

bolt extractor.webp


These are reverse threaded, and designed to be inserted into the hole you drilled in the bolt and tighten as you rotate counterclockwise. Use the biggest one you can fit in the bolt, and drill your hole out to the correct size for the extractor.

Heat it again, insert the extractor, and give it a shot.

If this does work, you will save the threads and not have to re-tap or re-drill and tap for a larger bolt.

If this does not work, then continue down Rob's path and drill it the rest of the way out.

To be clear, there is a risk here. Take care not to break off the tip of the extractor in the hole - they are hardened steal and you will not be able to drill it out with the broken tip in there. That's the reason to use the largest extractor you can for your sized bolt.

Hope that helps. Let's us know what you decide to do.

Jeff
 
With due respect to Rob, who gave good advice, that approach should be a last resort. Since you have never done this before, it will be almost impossible for you to get your hole centered, and as you step up in bit sizes you will most likely destroy the threads before getting the bolt completely drilled out. Rob is correct in that you may in fact have to ultimately try to drill it all the way out, but take an interim step along the way per my post above.

The bolt is likely a grade 5, and possibly a grade 8. That will make it very difficult to drill, and a cheap bit will not do it.

First, heat it with a torch - MAP gas will work, propane will not - and let it cool. If the bolt is hardened, that will anneal it and make it possible to drill (thank @WSS for that piece of advice). Then center punch it and drill a pilot hole - trying to keep it centered and straight as best you can.

This is a bolt extractor:

View attachment 261336

These are reverse threaded, and designed to be inserted into the hole you drilled in the bolt and tighten as you rotate counterclockwise. Use the biggest one you can fit in the bolt, and drill your hole out to the correct size for the extractor.

Heat it again, insert the extractor, and give it a shot.

If this does work, you will save the threads and not have to re-tap or re-drill and tap for a larger bolt.

If this does not work, then continue down Rob's path and drill it the rest of the way out.

To be clear, there is a risk here. Take care not to break off the tip of the extractor in the hole - they are hardened steal and you will not be able to drill it out with the broken tip in there. That's the reason to use the largest extractor you can for your sized bolt.

Hope that helps. Let's us know what you decide to do.

Jeff
None taken.

On mine, I had to use a breaker bar until the entire bolt was out because the threads inside the frame were bad shape. I don't think you'd be able to get that kind of torque on it with an extractor

Still can't believe the head didn't break off on mine
 
None taken.

On mine, I had to use a breaker bar until the entire bolt was out because the threads inside the frame were bad shape. I don't think you'd be able to get that kind of torque on it with an extractor

Still can't believe the head didn't break off on mine
I give it 50/50 ods. Heat is the key.

On an old belly skid setup of mine which used a bunch of recessed 1/2" allen head bolts, I was always stripping the allen heads trying to remove them. To get a stripped bolt out, I would weld a nut to the head of the bolt - and the funny thing was that after the heat from the weld I could literally remove the bolt with my welding-gloved fingers. Always made me kind of mad...
 
Drilling sucks and easy outs always break for me leaving it worse off. I use a Dremel cut off wheel and grind a slot for a flat blade screwdriver. If that falls they make reverse twist drills for this purpose, I'd get those first. If you do get extractors get the good ones and not the hardware store specials.
 
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I had one that was stripped in the thread. I fitted a helicoil and it worked fine. Try Just drill it out first and hopefully clean the thread up with a tap. If the thread does not survive, buy a helicoil kit. So easy! Actually, just drill and helicoil. You could mess around for quite a while with that frozen thread, drilling central, chasing threads etc. Helicoil is stronger than the original thread anyway!
 
I give it 50/50 ods. Heat is the key.

On an old belly skid setup of mine which used a bunch of recessed 1/2" allen head bolts, I was always stripping the allen heads trying to remove them. To get a stripped bolt out, I would weld a nut to the head of the bolt - and the funny thing was that after the heat from the weld I could literally remove the bolt with my welding-gloved fingers. Always made me kind of mad...
I'll take that kind of anger any day you don't want it
 
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There's a lot of different suggestions out there. What's the easiest with the least time and money cost?
 
There's a lot of different suggestions out there. What's the easiest with the least time and money cost?
Start with drilling 1/8" then if you are straight and central, increase in size incrementally (in maybe 3 steps?) to a size whereby the hole is near the diameter where you believe the thread to be. Sometimes, if you are really accurate or lucky the thread will wind out with an easyout (unlikely with a cheap tapered set) or if you are only off center slightly, you may be able to free the broken piece with a center punch, leaving good threads for a new bolt. So far, not much time and free, if you have basic tools. If this all goes pear shaped the surefire, at cost option is to helicoil the hole you have made. If you break a drill bit or helicoil in the hole you will wish you never started! Be careful. Centerpunching the center of the broken bolt before drilling is advisable.
 
Start with drilling 1/8" then if you are straight and central, increase in size incrementally (in maybe 3 steps?) to a size whereby the hole is near the diameter where you believe the thread to be. Sometimes, if you are really accurate or lucky the thread will wind out with an easyout (unlikely with a cheap tapered set) or if you are only off center slightly, you may be able to free the broken piece with a center punch, leaving good threads for a new bolt. So far, not much time and free, if you have basic tools. If this all goes pear shaped the surefire, at cost option is to helicoil the hole you have made. If you break a drill bit or helicoil in the hole you will wish you never started! Be careful. Centerpunching the center of the broken bolt before drilling is advisable.
There must a gazillion youtube videos on broken thread removal and repair!
 
There's a lot of different suggestions out there. What's the easiest with the least time and money cost?
I think the general consensus is to get a some drill bits, extractor bits, torch & cutting oil. Try using the extractor kit first using heat as @NashvilleTJ suggested. If that doesn't work try drilling it out completely hoping it breaks or works it way out.

If you're left without threads once it's all said and done, buy a tap kit and threaded the hole. Personally I wouldn't try a thread insert but that's your decision.

Either way it's a toss of the dice whether it will be easy but doing it yourself will certainly be cheaper
 
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