Caliper rebuild and brake job questions

Jramos013

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Since were gonna be in isolation for a while im doing my brakes now that i have time. I got the rebuild kit for both front calipers along with new pistons. New rear shoes, rear cylinders and hardware , new master cylinder, drums are ok.

I dont have acces to air tools, can the piston be remove from the caliper by pushing the brake with the calipers out? whats the propper way to bleed the system after replacing these components? do i need to "scratch" the rear drums for new shoes? if so, with what grit? in what order should the stuff be installed?

thank guys
 
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I don't see any reason you couldn't remove the pistons that way just use slow easy pressure. If you have a bicycle tire pump that could work also. If you have access to a pressure bleeder or vacuum bleeder would be the best and easiest way to bleed the brakes, otherwise, open all the bleed screws and making sure you keep the M/C full let them gravity bleed until you can't see any air bubbles coming from the bleeders. then pressure bleed as normal.
 
Since were gonna be in isolation for a while im doing my brakes now that i have time. I got the rebuild kit for both front calipers along with new pistons. New rear shoes, rear cylinders and hardware , new master cylinder, drums are ok.

I dont have acces to air tools, can the piston be remove from the caliper by pushing the brake with the calipers out? whats the propper way to bleed the system after replacing these components? do i need to "scratch" the rear drums for new shoes? if so, with what grit? in what order should the stuff be installed?

thank guys
I have only used an air nozzle to push the piston out. Curious to how it could be done without.
I will add, the pistons can be broken easier than one might think. So I would advise against striking it with a race punch or something like that.
 
If the drums look okay I'd just clean them up and put them back on. If they are glazed or really shinny I think I'd have them turned or replaced. Drums can start to grab and act strange if they have uneven wear, I wouldn't do anything by hand.
 
I've been reading and everywhere says the new master cylinder needs to be bench bleed. I do not have the kit with the fittings and all autoparts stores are close. Anyone knows any other alternate method that does nnot need the kit?
 
Im doing this tomorrow, any tips on removing the pistons? Im planning once the calipers are out, push the brake pedal very slowly and see how the piston is coming out between pushes. How many pumps should it take?
 
Im doing this tomorrow, any tips on removing the pistons? Im planning once the calipers are out, push the brake pedal very slowly and see how the piston is coming out between pushes. How many pumps should it take?
Use a doubled up rag between the caliper and the piston to soften the blow it may take from pushing out via the pedal. Just a few pumps, about 10 at the most I would think. It’s dependent on where the piston is in its travel when you start pumping the pedal. Be aware, brake fluid lives behind the piston, so if it does push all the way out, fluid is going to be everywhere.

The better way, in your situation, would be to have an assistant sit in the Jeep and pump the pedal while you are at the caliper to retrive the piston. It likely will be pushed out to its extended travel/stroke and you will be able to just pull it the rest of the way out, releasing it from the caliper housing.
 
So i got the piston out without a problem, about 7 pumps did the trick, they came out nice and slow.
What are these clips for? There were none in the jeep

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