Anyone find a good option for a coil suspension setup on a trailer? Not finding much in the US or a build sheet to fabricate them.
Coil suspension for off-road trailer
- Thread starter Tomtess
- Start date
Personally, I would go with a trailing arm suspension, like the Timbren Axle-less. If you use coils, you'll need a trailing arm or some other suspension anyways, so it's easiest to just put the spring right on the trailing arm.
In addition, the axle-less has much better ground clearance than coils, leafs, or a torsion axle. (You can't even get that clearance on the TJ without portal axles.)
Depending on your weight capacity needed, they have units that will match the wheel pattern of the TJ. I believe the 2000HD, 2200, and 3500 lbs (but not the 3500HD) all use 3500 lbs hubs, which match the 5x4.5 wheel pattern of the TJ.
The 2200 lbs model is an interesting one, as it has a much longer trailing arm, giving it a lot of suspension travel and a soft ride.
The HD models are simply higher rated setups that are derated for use with softer springs and in more abusive conditions. For example, the 2000HD is a 3500 lbs model with a softer spring. The 2200 is a 3500 lbs model with a longer torsion arm. The 3500HD is a 5200 with a softer spring.
https://timbren.com/c-1389196-products-axle-less-trailer-suspension.html
You can also get them with lift or drop so you can height match the trailer to the TJ. And you can also get different stick out lengths, so you can run 35×12.5 (or larger) tires without issues.
Ultimately, I would like to build one using the 2200 with 4" lift. Running 35s, it would be at the same loaded frame height as the TJ with 35s and 5" of lift. With 3500 lbs hubs, I can run a good set of brakes with a separate parking brake, and use the exact same wheels and tires on both the TJ and the trailer.
In addition, the axle-less has much better ground clearance than coils, leafs, or a torsion axle. (You can't even get that clearance on the TJ without portal axles.)
Depending on your weight capacity needed, they have units that will match the wheel pattern of the TJ. I believe the 2000HD, 2200, and 3500 lbs (but not the 3500HD) all use 3500 lbs hubs, which match the 5x4.5 wheel pattern of the TJ.
The 2200 lbs model is an interesting one, as it has a much longer trailing arm, giving it a lot of suspension travel and a soft ride.
The HD models are simply higher rated setups that are derated for use with softer springs and in more abusive conditions. For example, the 2000HD is a 3500 lbs model with a softer spring. The 2200 is a 3500 lbs model with a longer torsion arm. The 3500HD is a 5200 with a softer spring.
https://timbren.com/c-1389196-products-axle-less-trailer-suspension.html
You can also get them with lift or drop so you can height match the trailer to the TJ. And you can also get different stick out lengths, so you can run 35×12.5 (or larger) tires without issues.
Ultimately, I would like to build one using the 2200 with 4" lift. Running 35s, it would be at the same loaded frame height as the TJ with 35s and 5" of lift. With 3500 lbs hubs, I can run a good set of brakes with a separate parking brake, and use the exact same wheels and tires on both the TJ and the trailer.
You have been doing a lot of the same research as I have been lately. I’m building my frame currently and went with the 2200# 4” lifted version as well. Also got a lock n roll hitch set up
I agree, a simple leaf spring setup is almost maintenance free and stupid simple. Just add shocks and have the trailer tires balanced and the trailer will ride nice and smooth.
If you’re concerned about ground clearance, have a drop axle built upside down to gain clearance.
My last trailer I had a drop axle built upside down and with 27” tall tires it had more ground clearance under the axle than my Jeep on 35’s.
OP
thank you for all the in put on this is have ordered the lock and roll hitch for the trailer but have mixed reviews on the trailer suspension
I have a simple dexter 3500 axle I ordered custom, simple spring over.
my trailer is a M416 and loaded down weighs 1200 lbs. it works great. I drag it into things that would rip apart normal trailers. I do t even run shocks, keep the tires low for the weight and it does everything I want it to. Still run the pintle hitch but plan to remake the tongue and do a lock and roll. WAY quieter.
Neighbor has a tear drop with the timbren axleless setup. He likes it but they don’t use it so hard to really say it’s the best.
I do like that most of the Aussie builders use it though, so honestly it must be pretty good stuff. But I think overkill for my little off-road trailer. And my axle was like $135 bucks, shipped.
my trailer is a M416 and loaded down weighs 1200 lbs. it works great. I drag it into things that would rip apart normal trailers. I do t even run shocks, keep the tires low for the weight and it does everything I want it to. Still run the pintle hitch but plan to remake the tongue and do a lock and roll. WAY quieter.
Neighbor has a tear drop with the timbren axleless setup. He likes it but they don’t use it so hard to really say it’s the best.
I do like that most of the Aussie builders use it though, so honestly it must be pretty good stuff. But I think overkill for my little off-road trailer. And my axle was like $135 bucks, shipped.
The other type of axle you might look into is called a torsion axle. It has a center beam like a beam axle, but it’s technically an independent suspension, as each end is sprung separately. It supposedly gets a better ride than a leaf spring, and is easier to install. It is more expensive than leafs, but cheaper than the axle-less.
Ground clearance of a torsion axle is comparable to a beam axle on leafs.
Personally I would go straight to the axle-less and skip the torsion axle if I wanted something more than leafs. However, it is worth a look.
Ground clearance of a torsion axle is comparable to a beam axle on leafs.
Personally I would go straight to the axle-less and skip the torsion axle if I wanted something more than leafs. However, it is worth a look.
MountaineerTom
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@lowranger has a torsion axle on his trailer. I think that’s what I’m going to go with too, when I get that far along in the process.
I would go with the axleless over a torsion as they are much better from a maintenance stand point. If a torsion fails you have to replace the entire axle.
If you would, lemme know how you do that. I may want to do the same to my M416.
Sure thing. I’ll take pics as I do it but plan is, receiver tubing ran back to the first cross member, welded to a plate that bolts to that member, using both of the bracing for the current tongue to triangle it in and welded to the tube creating a simple and strong tongue. That way I can mount my box on top, gain some length and run the lock and roll hitch.
One of the popular methods for making an off road trailer tongue is to run a piece of receiver tubing the entire length of the trailer. The hitch is mounted on a piece of 2x2 steel, which can telescope in and out of the receiver tubing. The tube is drilled at various lengths for 5/8" bolts, thus creating an adjustable length tongue.
On the highway you can set the tongue long to make it more stable and easier to maneuver, and off road set it short to make very tight turns. It also provides an easy way to swap out the type of hitch, in case you ever need to switch to a ball or pintle hitch.
If the receiver tube is run through the rear end of the trailer, it also makes an exceptionally strong recovery point, as well as a location to stick a bike rack or other hitch accessory.
On the highway you can set the tongue long to make it more stable and easier to maneuver, and off road set it short to make very tight turns. It also provides an easy way to swap out the type of hitch, in case you ever need to switch to a ball or pintle hitch.
If the receiver tube is run through the rear end of the trailer, it also makes an exceptionally strong recovery point, as well as a location to stick a bike rack or other hitch accessory.