Coolant suddenly poured out of lower radiator petcock

I am the umpteenth owner of my 2001 Sahara. Sadly, only spring clamp is the one I shoehorned aft of the rad. port. So I’m in detective mode. But I think the Upper / Lower Hose clamp may be the same size?
 
Chris said:
For some reason, most people assume they are an "upgrade". I've talked to some people from my former BMW days, who would say, "Oh, those factory style spring clamps are just their way of being cheap and saving money.". That always made me roll my eyes.
Click to expand...
I worked in a Chrysler assembly plant in the '70s and for a while worked on the engine line (engines came from another plant and we would add hoses and accessories before they went in the car). One of the reasons the factories don't use worm clamps is the time it takes to tighten them. With a spring clamp, you just pop the hose on, snap the clamp on, move on to the next car. In the car business, time is money. Spring clamps are pretty much foolproof, you don't assemble them, torque them, they don't jam, just snap them on and you're done.
 
  • Like
Reactions: KCsTJ
RubiconMike said:
I worked in a Chrysler assembly plant in the '70s and for a while worked on the engine line (engines came from another plant and we would add hoses and accessories before they went in the car). One of the reasons the factories don't use worm clamps is the time it takes to tighten them. With a spring clamp, you just pop the hose on, snap the clamp on, move on to the next car. In the car business, time is money. Spring clamps are pretty much foolproof, you don't assemble them, torque them, they don't jam, just snap them on and you're done.
Click to expand...

Makes a lot of sense. Work clamps can definitely work, but often times people will install theme cockeyed or in such a way they there is too much pressure in one area. The spring clamps are certainly fool proof. Not to mention that an older radiator hose usually has grooves permanently worn into it where it’s expecting that spring clamp to be.
 
I gotta say though after fooling w channel locks I finally got some Kipex hose clamp pliers. They work really well. Wish I had them when I had my Mini Cooper. The right tool really makes the job easier!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Thought I would let you all know the actual part number based on my VIN (2001 Sahara 4.0 5 sp) for the lower hose spring clamp is 55037990AA for a 55 MM constant tension spring clamp. Just thought I’d let everyone know... maybe it varies with VIN? When I get them, I’ll let you know how it goes. Thanks again Zebra for the Mopar overstock link. BTW, they’re showing radiators for under 200 bucks. My next steps are to replace clamps then run a pressure ck and if it’s low, I may look at a new radiator. Water pump was replaced 2 years ago. Just trying to take it slow, keep extra coolant at the ready to minimize impact on wallet.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zebra12
RubiconMike said:
I worked in a Chrysler assembly plant in the '70s and for a while worked on the engine line (engines came from another plant and we would add hoses and accessories before they went in the car). One of the reasons the factories don't use worm clamps is the time it takes to tighten them. With a spring clamp, you just pop the hose on, snap the clamp on, move on to the next car. In the car business, time is money. Spring clamps are pretty much foolproof, you don't assemble them, torque them, they don't jam, just snap them on and you're done.
Click to expand...
Another reason for the hose pinch clamp is that it will expand with heat and contract with cool, keeping constant pressure on the hose.
A worm clamp can cut into a rubber hose when it expands, causing leaks.
Go with the hose pinch clamps, get rid of the worm drive clamps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RubiconMike
Just wanted to clarify that the lower hose clamp for the radiator is a 50 mm, NOT a “55”. I was confusing the first numbers of the part number with the size. So far so good! Leak seems to have stopped or at least to something much more manageable.
 
  • Like
Reactions: zebra12
Update on coolant. I was nervous because I had coolant on the tie rod but it seems to have been “extra” from where I had topped it off after replacing the lower rad hose clamp. After driving about a 100 miles, the coolant level seems to be right at the fins or just about an inch from the filler neck. The temp gauge is wonky though (always has been). It holds steady at 210, but then climbs to the red zone unexpectedly. Giving it a sold “Fonzie” thump on the dash usually sends it right back to 210. Replaced the thermostat last winter. What gives? I’ve heard others say these temp gauges are temperamental. Could it be a sensor? I’ve taken the instrument panel off and lightly sanded the terminals with Emory board and gave it a little dialectic grease but it’s still doing the same thing....
 
It could very well be your coolant temp sensor that is going bad. The fact that you can hit the dash and the gauge corrects itself would seem to suggest that is your issue.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TJ_Jake
Thanks Chris. It appears I need to look at the sensor in the back. (The one on the front communicates with the PCM). Assuming since my engine is not running rough, that it’s the sensor that controls the gauge in the back right by cylinder 6? After being humiliated by the rusty ox sensor, how hard is it to replace? Asking for a friend.....
 
Update.... I guess it’s the older Jeeps that have two water temp sensors. I appear to have just one on the t stat housing. Just installed it. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
Well, wanted to give everyone an update. Replaced the sensor and it kept doing the same thing, behaving erratically. Then steam started coming out of the radiator cap. Replaced it with a stant. Then steam started coming out of other places. So I got a new radiator. Mechanic said it was leaking in several places. Here’s the thing... it’s fine. Not losing any radiator fluid. Mechanic did a pressure check and said the head seemed fine. But that daggone water temperature gage is still acting crazy. I tap the dash and it goes back to 210 usually. Even though it’s a new radiator it’s still an 18 yr old Jeep so I keep my coolant and tools with me. Maybe one day I’ll find the dash gage cluster on eBay but for now I guess I can live with the erratic water temp gage.
 
Top Bottom
Back