Critique my plan for 3.25 inch lift please

diggerwolf

diggerwolf

TJ Enthusiast
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Oct 26, 2021
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Van Alstyne, TX
I’m just learning so please bear with me.

A few months ago I bought a 2005 Sport, 4.0, 6-speed. Had a lift, 33x12.50s, and a bunch of Chicom parts.

Since the lift is of unknown origin and, as far as I can tell, there is no body lift, I think I’m going to start from scratch. I am somewhat mechanically inclined (at least I have a lot of tools). That way, I will know what components are under there, and I’ll learn a lot more about my Jeep by doing the work myself.

Reading through old threads here, I think I have a plan. It has Fox shocks now, so after I cycle and measure, I’ll either keep those or replace them too.

Here’s my build list:

OME 2" Heavy Duty Springs front PN 2933

OME 2" Heavy Duty Springs rear PN 2942

Zone 1.25" Body Lift Kit

Zone 1" Motor Mount Lift Kit

ARB Track Rod Extension Bracket - FKWTJ02

I like the Zone Body lift because it comes with “crushproof” body lift blocks, grade 8 hardware, steering correction, radiator relocation brackets, and transfer case linkage; and Savvy is out of stock.

How did I do? What am I missing?
 
diggerwolf said:
I’m just learning so please bear with me.

A few months ago I bought a 2005 Sport, 4.0, 6-speed. Had a lift, 33x12.50s, and a bunch of Chicom parts.

Since the lift is of unknown origin and, as far as I can tell, there is no body lift, I think I’m going to start from scratch. I am somewhat mechanically inclined (at least I have a lot of tools). That way, I will know what components are under there, and I’ll learn a lot more about my Jeep by doing the work myself.

Reading through old threads here, I think I have a plan. It has Fox shocks now, so after I cycle and measure, I’ll either keep those or replace them too.

Here’s my build list:

OME 2" Heavy Duty Springs front PN 2933

OME 2" Heavy Duty Springs rear PN 2942

Zone 1.25" Body Lift Kit

Zone 1" Motor Mount Lift Kit

ARB Track Rod Extension Bracket - FKWTJ02

I like the Zone Body lift because it comes with “crushproof” body lift blocks, grade 8 hardware, steering correction, radiator relocation brackets, and transfer case linkage; and Savvy is out of stock.

How did I do? What am I missing?
Click to expand...
So far everything seems good and you have a good plan or your shocks. Don't forget to check your bumpstops as well. For 33's that 3.25" will be a little low, I used to have a similar setup and had to limit my uptravel to keep my tires out of the fenders.

I'd also look into a front trackbar replacement, adjustable preferably.

Might want to look into a ZJ tie rod conversion as well.
 
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imahnu17 said:
So far everything seems good and you have a good plan or your shocks. Don't forget to check your bumpstops as well. For 33's that 3.25" will be a little low, I used to have a similar setup and had to limit my uptravel to keep my tires out of the fenders.

I'd also look into a front trackbar replacement, adjustable preferably.

Might want to look into a ZJ tie rod conversion as well.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I am not seeing a lot of options for 2.5" springs, would you recommend 3"?
 
diggerwolf said:
Thanks. I am not seeing a lot of options for 2.5" springs, would you recommend 3"?
Click to expand...
Well for those OME springs, you may get 2.5" of lift out of them depending on the weight of your Jeep, many here refer to them as 2.5" springs for that reason. I currently have the same ones and get about 2.25" out of them.

There's a few different options for 2.5" springs but 3" springs would work as well. The normal suggestion for 33's is 4" of total lift. Be careful though, you may need a SYE kit for this unless you want to run TC skid spacers, which I would definitely recommend against doing.

@rustygastank had a good suggestion for the sway bar links. I have the JKS quicker discos in the front and like them. You could get any rear links for a 2.5" lift and should be gtg.
 
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It sounds like you want to do it right with quality parts. If so, I would highly recommend the Savvy body lift even if they are on backorder. I'm sure the Zone is fine but I would much rather have aluminum pucks over the polymer units that Zone offers even if they are crush proof. The Savvy ones are also concave to cup the body mounts and just seems perfect for the TJ. This is one of the easier choices in my opinion at that price. Since you are doing the MML, I don't think you care about radiator relocation.

The steering bracket I really do not think makes much difference but I am using a dedicated MORE unit which seems more robust than the Zone piece. Reviews however are inconclusive on whether or not this improves anything so you can probably skip this altogether or at least decide later.

I would also rather have an adjustable track bar vs. the relocation bracket. It just seems stronger, more straight forward and future proof vs. a relocation bracket that requires drilling and uses the stock unit.

Lastly, I would get the Savvy cable shifter vs. relocating the existing linkage system. I never had any problems with my linkage but again like the idea of a more simple and direct implementation.

Of course, your budget may say otherwise but these options are not too bad relatively speaking.
 
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I was kinda hoping for a thread about your rough country kit and various Smittybilt parts, but it looks like a good list, especially with some of the other recommendations.

At some point I'd grab a Currie anti-rock front sway bar if you want a good on-road/off-road adjustable blend sway bar. Of course I'm not sure I've driven a TJ with a sway bar other than the Currie, because I realized my sway bar was broken, then ditched the bar cuz it was in the way of my winch plate and it drove the same, until I got the Currie.

I think the adjustable track bars are the way to go too, but I think the PO did a 2" puck lift with the OEM track bar and it was fine, but my springs were sagging like crazy. I think with the pucks when I measured I was under stock suspension height.

The other thing. I got the rear heavy duty OME springs and 1 was 1" taller than the other and unless I'm loaded heavy, that side is 1" taller than the other. I've been hoping this will break in, but I'm a little concerned. There are also a couple of other things that might be contributing to this that I haven't even tried to address yet.
 
IMHO, springs are springs. Unless they are a much thicker diameter than stock you won't really see a difference in ride quality or articulation by replacing them. Shocks provide most of your ride quality. You'll find that Rancho RS5000X shocks are regularly recommended here.

I'd get a ZJ tie rod while you're at it.

I'm probably cheaper than most on here, but I'd recommend running what you have, and then figuring out what you want to replace. If you're happy with the ride quality, don't get new springs/shocks. If you don't have vibes, don't do the motor mount lift, etc.
 
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Some advice....don't be like me, Captain Overkill. I haven't posted my plans but you'd think I was getting ready to compete in the KOH with my parts list. But in reality its a highway rig that goes over downed logs every now and then.

I've since dialed down my expectations. It's fun to go overboard until you realize you will have to sell your children to pay for it.
 
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