Dead Spot in Steering / Throttle Steer

Wingback73

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2020
Messages
272
Location
Massachusetts
Hi all,

I just got a new (to me, obviously) 2004 Rubicon that is in great shape (very limited surface rust only here is New England means "great"), but it has a couple issues I'll try to describe along with some of the items that I'm already working on and considering...

The vehicle is lifted 4" with a "budget" (that's as nice as I can be - it was a bit half-assed in some regards) Rough Country lift. I didn't notice at the time, but apparently it only included lower control arms (fixed) and is still using the stock uppers. It also includes a drop pitman arm (I can't even seem to get the nut off, so I'll deal with the arm separately) and again. The need for an adjustable track bar was obviated by drilling a new hole in the front mounting bracket in which to mount the stock arm (🤦‍♂️ ). There is a 1" drop on the belly pan keeping the driveline angle acceptable.

My test drive went terrific: the vehicle handled well, shifted well, and the engine was strong. No vibration in the driveline whatsoever. The only thing I noticed was a bit of "nudge" in the steering wheel when accelerating. The car didn't pull at all, but you could feel a little bit of tension in the steering wheel under hard acceleration (like when a lane assist pushes you a little bit in a modern car). Very slight, but there. Likely suspension related in my view, so I didn't worry about it too much. Left and right turns both happened as one would expect - no dead spot or anything else in the steering. A little tighter than my 2006, actually.

The drive home, which was the first time the vehicle was on the highway, identified a second challenge in the steering. When I steer left everything is fine. When turning right, however, the first 30-45 degrees of steering input results in the expected outcome - the vehicle ruens right. The next 30-45 degrees doesn't seem to do much at all, and then from there the vehicle steers as usual. It was hairy dealing with that at highway speeds, let me tell you.

Once I got it home a couple things became apparent:
1. It has a drop pitman arm. Not sure that would cause either of the above, but okay
2. The tie rod end in the front track bar at the frame is completely shot. Pulling it results in highly noticeable movement in the whole arm. Can't see this causing either of the above either, but I suppose it could if the body shifted under acceleration, but I would think that would found more from sloppiness in the back than the front.
3. All the other steering tie rod ends were loose, but only to the point where they can moved (I can rotate the drag link and the tie rod easily by hand), no noticeable play in any of them.
4. When I had the steering disconnected and had my daughter turn the wheel I saw no visible lag in the pitman arm movement or any other indication that the steering wheel inputs weren't being delivered directly to the steering components.

I've already ordered the parts to do the ZJ upgrade, including a new drag link, new tie rod, and all new tie rod ends. I'll also be installing a Core Level 3 adjustable track bar (same as I have in my 2006) to get everything back where it belongs the right way.

2 big questions:
1. A 4" lift without adjustable uppers? Is this a good idea, or should I just replace the whole darn thing?
2. Any thoughts as it relates to the steering?

My thought is to upgrade all the control arms and to hope that replacing the steering rack fixes the problems, but I'm not a big fan of hope as a plan....

Thanks in advance!

Doug
 
Fix the steering issues first.
Next, tire size will dictate the amount of lift you might need.
How you obtain that lift might depend on your budget.
Normally, 4" SL would need adj.control arms. I'm guessing the transfer case drop and Rubicon rear driveshaft is what's allowing it to work without vibes.
 
Good point on the tires - knew I forgot something.

Tires are 33" miss. They'll stay until they wear out then become 33" all terrains.

We'll see how the steering comes out in the next week or so. Was hoping to do some this week but Amazon had managed to ship me not one, but two, sets of Moog rods that are missing the hardware - they are sending me new ones, of course, but really frustrating...
 
Any time you are working through the steering you have to also evaluate the control arm bushings, bolts and mounts and the front and rear track bars- in my mind the entire system is inter connected- anything that can allow unnecessary axle movement affect steering- Rear steer is a good example.

The best TJ knowledge is right here- this forum is all TJ’s and most owners are very hands on.
 
Thanks Andy - appreciate it. I've done all my own rework forever as well, on a number of different vehicles, and certainly recognize the wealth of knowledge here. This is a great community where I have always give all the advice and guidance I need.

The steering feedback is the most concerning to me, since I've never experienced it on any of my other vehicles, including my other TJ, other Jeeps, and different brands. And different brands. I've done some reading on the subject and it appears that the basic premise is that a worn bushing in the rear can cause the suspension to get out of alignment under acceleration and therefore result in steering feedback. Do I understand the premise generally accurately? My quick assessment of the control arms didn't find any issues with any of the bushings, but that is always a challenging assessment since they can be cracked and difficult to identify without full removal.

Thanks!

Doug
 
Well, it took a while, but I'm back with an update...

TL;DR - steering is much better after a full refresh, but steering wheel still turns itself during a light standing start

I've now replaced all of the front steering components and took the opportunity to upgrade to the XJ tie rod. So new rod ends, new drag link, new clamps, and I removed the old drop pitman arm and replaced it with stock (I have a 4" lift, but will be moving to a 3" front, 2" back). I also replaced the worn out stock track bar with an adjustable. Although interestingly enough, getting the axle centered meant making the track bar as short as possible (despite the lift).

While driving down the road there is still a faint hint of the car wanting to go left under acceleration. What I find more interesting, however, is that at a complete stop, hands off the wheel, starting to release the clutch in 1st gear will turn the wheel left about 5-10 degrees. Do it again and it moves another 5-10. I didn't check how many times I could do this, but it was at least 4. I'm not talking hard acceleration here - just releasing the clutch as you would during a normal take-off.

The vehicle has rough country lower control arms and stock uppers.

It seems odd to me that the wheel would move that much from a standstill if it were the rear bushings/rear steer, but I'm open to suggestions. Everything seems okay in the back, and the problem is much less pronounced than it was, but obviously still there, so open to any suggestions to getting the car to take off in a straight line :)

Doug