Steering box slop / steering shimmy?

You can now get rebuild kits for em so you don't need to fork out all the money.

I modified my frame to accept to older style boxes, it's not acctualy that big a deal to do if you have a welder, and access to an older model part out.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
I wonder how in depth the rebuild process is? Being that the jeep is my only vehicle other than the motorcycle
 
I wonder how in depth the rebuild process is? Being that the jeep is my only vehicle other than the motorcycle
How many miles on the upper control arms, both ends?
You don't have a pitman arm problem. Look elsewhere.
When is the last time the tires were balanced, perfectly?
How are they balanced, static or dynamic?
Who set the toe and how was it done?
Can you repeat the shimmy at will?
Do you feel the shimmy try to start in turns about 45-50 and then go away when the road goes back to straight?
What track bar, what track bar bolt?
Have you done the dry steering test with you watching stuff and then repeated it with the motor running? Results if so?
 
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I wonder how in depth the rebuild process is? Being that the jeep is my only vehicle other than the motorcycle
As long as you don't play 52 pickup with ball bearings it's not a big deal. However @mrblaine is right in that you should look elsewhere first. If the box is worn to the point it needs a rebuild you will know because it will be leaking all over the place.


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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You can now get rebuild kits for em so you don't need to fork out all the money.

Seriously? I didn't know this was the case. Where have you seen such a rebuild kit? I am not able to find one.
 
Seriously? I didn't know this was the case. Where have you seen such a rebuild kit? I am not able to find one.
Unfortunately I no longer have that box so I didn't pay a lot of attention, but I do remember tripping over the kit only about a year ago.


Edit: used a bit of googlefu and got this quickly https://www.carid.com/2006-jeep-wrangler-steering-boxes/?filter=1&sub-model[Liter][]=4.0L

There are probably more out there, no bearings in these kits.

There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
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Reactions: Chris
How many miles on the upper control arms, both ends?
You don't have a pitman arm problem. Look elsewhere.
When is the last time the tires were balanced, perfectly?
How are they balanced, static or dynamic?
Who set the toe and how was it done?
Can you repeat the shimmy at will?
Do you feel the shimmy try to start in turns about 45-50 and then go away when the road goes back to straight?
What track bar, what track bar bolt?
Have you done the dry steering test with you watching stuff and then repeated it with the motor running? Results if so?
I replaced all the control arms and bushings in the front end with the exception of the axle side upper passenger which didnt want to come out. Bushing showed no signs of separation using a long screw driver to flex it.

Tires are where I thought my problem was, I had discount tire warranty my last set of tires out after having them balanced multiple times at two different shops. One place road force balanced them and assured me they wouldn't leave unless perfect, and discount tire dynamic balanced them I believe? What's the difference between static and dynamic? I now have new tires and wheels and got rid of my wheel spacers with no change.

I set the toe using square aluminum tubing clamped to the rotor and a tape measure.

I can repeat the shimmy over certain pieces or road, speed does change how the wobble feels, but it is not exclusively occurring at 45-50. Cornering does increase the severity of the wobble, but only certain corners. Smooth cornering causes no wobble. Death wobble both times happened on a corner at 65/70 mph

Have had both a metalcloak with 5/8" and 9/16" bolt and Currie with 5/8" and 1/2" bolt with no change. Both torqued to spec often.

I have only done the dry steering test a few times with motor running, I was unaware it should be done while off. First time, i found a minute amount of play in metalcloak heim joint, everything else tight. Replaced with Currie track bar with no change. After having death wobble with the Currie track bar it was done again, to find I could feel a click in the pitman arm tie rod end (turns out this was the dead spot in steering) I also thought the track bar Johnnie joint was moving more than it should. Bolt not moving but joint moving around it slightly. Replaced with metalcloak track bar and new heim joint (had it laying around) with no change.
 
How are the ujoints in the steering shaft?


There must have been a time
when we could have said no.
 
It was
Great question. May not hear back from them, but did you figure out your issue?
a mixture of bad tie rod/drag link ends and the bushing in the upper steering shaft. Since I couldn't find an OE style replacement upper shaft, I pulled it apart and cleaned the bushing out and put fresh grease in. It helped a lot.
 
If in doubt, take a photo of the pitman arm so we can tell if it's stock or not. I only say this because aftermarket pitman arms are known to cause bump steer, which is what you are describing.

I suppose it could be that you need a new steering gear box in general, but I actually don't know what the symptoms of a bad or failing steering gear box are.

I just bought a 2003 jeep wrangler SE and on the drive home ,noticed my steering was scary loose turning wheel from approximately 3-9 to keep it straight.I took the steering box offa d replaced it and solved the issue.Signs of loose steering and leaking seals…sure sign of bad box.
 
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