Dies and won't start

Kjn

New Member
Original poster
Joined
May 3, 2018
Messages
11
Location
Saint Augustine, FL, USA
I am a newbie at repairs. Learning. I have a 2000 TJ 4.0 that I replaced the coil rail and plugs as it was running rough and missing a lot. After the replacements, it ran beautifully for several weeks. I went for a drive recently and it started sputtering and died. It won't start. It acts like it's getting spark and cranks fine, but doesn't start up. The most it'll do is start enough to sputter and die for just a second. I am guessing fuel pump, but I wanted to know besides checking the fuel pressure, what can I do to eliminate other potential faulty parts before I drop the fuel tank. I have read that the crankshaft position censor has similar symptoms, but I'm not sure. Any advise would be appreciated.
 
Spraying starter fluid into the intake while cranking it is a quick way to confirm if you're issue is fuel vs spark related. If it starts on the starter fluid you know your problem is fuel related.

If it still won't start on starter fluid then you can start trouble shooting ignition related probable causes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Spraying starter fluid into the intake while cranking it is a quick way to confirm if you're issue is fuel vs spark related. If it starts on the starter fluid you know your problem is fuel related.

If it still won't start on starter fluid then you can start trouble shooting ignition related probable causes.

Greg, thank you. Makes sense. I’ll start there.
 
Greg, thank you. Makes sense. I’ll start there.

Report back with your findings and we can help further. I had my own crank/no start issue last year that ended up just being a poor/corroded connection at my ignition coil that was resolved simply by unplugging the connector, cleaning it and plugging it back in.
 
Normal fuel pressure should be very close to 49 psi.

Thank you. I was just able to run the pressure test and it’s a flat zero. I did notice that the schrader valve did not have the cap on it. Not sure if that would cause the loss of pressure, but I’m thinking fuel pump at this point.
 
Thank you. I was just able to run the pressure test and it’s a flat zero. I did notice that the schrader valve did not have the cap on it. Not sure if that would cause the loss of pressure, but I’m thinking fuel pump at this point.
The black plastic cap doesn't hold pressure, it's only there to protect the valve stem like the black plastic cap does on our tire valve stems. A bad fuel pump does sound likely at this point. I'd replace just the fuel pump itself and just the fuel pressure regulator itself, not the entire fuel pump assembly. The reason is you can still get the OEM Bosch fuel pump but not the entire Bosch fuel pump assembly which is no longer made. For the fuel pressure regulator (which has a check valve that can leak)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZL922/?tag=wranglerorg-20

For the fuel pressure regulator I'd go for the WVE or Standard Motor Products at https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...+&+air,fuel+injection+pressure+regulator,6124
 
Thank you so much. I’ll do that. My gas gauge has never worked, so I’m hoping that this will fix that also.

You'd need a new float switch.

That's essentially the big three parts in the entire assembly...pump, regulator and float switch/rheostat...and filter socks.

Great write up in the resources section to disassemble the unit and replace each part.

Here's a video of me rebuilding my TJ after a wreck...about the 17 minute mark I'm taking apart the fuel pump assembly...



-Mac
 
Thanks Mac and Jerry for all the help. My fuel pump issue is fixed. I ended up getting a new fuel pump assembly since I needed all of the components. Fuel gauge and pump working well.

Whose fuel pump assembly did you use?

We're always trying to keep track of what works (and doesn't.)

-Mac