Does Loctite prevent corrosion / seizing?

thomat65

TJ Enthusiast
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I'm planning on applying a corrosion inhibitor to the bolt threads on my TJ.

At first I was just going to use a grease based anti seize. But I don't want the bolts backing out over time so then I thought Loctite would be better, but only if it prevents rust too.

If it's relevant to my question I'm also planning on spraying Fluid Film everywhere.
 
Loctite is rubberized and it's not good with rust.
I apply anti-seize grease on threads and Fluid Film to the rest exposed to weather grimes.
Here is the proof from my 6 year old JK:

IMG_0134.webp
 
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Loctite is rubberized and it's not good with rust prevention.
I thought it was a polymer, not rubber.

Were the bolts installed with a thread locker from the factory? (I don't have my Jeep or I'd look and try to answer that myself) If so, then since they still rust that'll be additional evidence plus your personal experience.
 
I'm planning on applying a corrosion inhibitor to the bolt threads on my TJ.

At first I was just going to use a grease based anti seize. But I don't want the bolts backing out over time so then I thought Loctite would be better, but only if it prevents rust too.

If it's relevant to my question I'm also planning on spraying Fluid Film everywhere.
Properly torqued (you’ll have to adjust based on lube used) they won’t back out. You have to factor different coefficients of friction for correct torque values.
 
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I thought it was a polymer, not rubber.

Were the bolts installed with a thread locker from the factory? (I don't have my Jeep or I'd look and try to answer that myself) If so, then since they still rust that'll be additional evidence plus your personal experience.
The helical pitch of a thread is tapered agains the cavity and is therefore the equivalent of the term "locker".
 
You should be going back and rechecking torque on suspension bolts (really any bolt) that you have worked on. I try to get back and check at around 10 and 50 hours. This is hard to do if this is your business, but if any bolt has loosened at 50 hours after being torqued twice (at first and then at 10 hours) I either go to a locknut if possible or a double jam nut or locktite around the entire last thread of the bolt (outside of the nut). I know many will just add a glob of locktite to the whole thread in side the nut, but if I even think the bolt may need to be removed again for some reason I want to be able to get the nut off without needing a torch and a cheaterbar.
 
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