Is the front exhaust manifold bolt not required on a 97 TJ 2.5?
- Thread starter lunchbox3
- Start date
To me, it looks like there is supposed to be a stud there (item 9 in the picture). The manual says that the quantity of those is 2. So I'm guessing one in the front and one in the rear which are secured with nuts and spacers ( items 8 and 10). The rest look like hex head bolts (item 3). I have a 4.0L, so I can't go look at mine, but that's what I would guess based on the manual. Hope that helps and best of luck.
They all get bolted down. It's been a long time since I did it, but I certainly didn't leave any bolts out.
The areas where the exhaust and intake manifolds share a bolt requires a heavy washer that is about 1" diameter and 3/16" thick not a spacer.
https://www.quadratec.com/p/omix-ad...WPSosufScJdEEQda6C4DqhTk7i-x7H9waAmQvEALw_wcB
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Sorry, my mistake. Looks like I’m talking about the hardware for #7 (very front of the manifold). Is that supposed to be a stud? And what sizes are the spacers and nuts shown?
It's #10 in your diagram. It's more of a sleeve than a "spacer". It might surprise you to see what it's made of. Looks like nylon or silicone and I can't imagine it lasting any length of time. It's purpose is to center the exhaust stud when you slide the manifold on. I recently replaced my exhaust manifold and I made my own out of brass from something suitably sized in my junk drawer. It's profile is such that it doesn't protrude above the thickness of the manifold flange when you install the washer and nut. I replaced all my hardware with new from Wermopar.com.
One thing to keep in mind if any of you are replacing your 2.5 exhaust manifold - Mopar is shipping Chinese manifolds under the old part #, so you might as well save some money and buy a Dorman. I returned the first one to Wermopar and ordered one from RockAuto who assured me that their picture on the their website was accurate (OEM). But upon opening the box, it was the same Chinese version that Wermopar sent. At this point, I just gave up and used it. I could have bought the same manifold for 1/2 the money locally if I had known.
One thing to keep in mind if any of you are replacing your 2.5 exhaust manifold - Mopar is shipping Chinese manifolds under the old part #, so you might as well save some money and buy a Dorman. I returned the first one to Wermopar and ordered one from RockAuto who assured me that their picture on the their website was accurate (OEM). But upon opening the box, it was the same Chinese version that Wermopar sent. At this point, I just gave up and used it. I could have bought the same manifold for 1/2 the money locally if I had known.
I tried the Dorman manifold, 2 to be exact and the castings are incorrect where the intake and exhaust share the same bolt. The castings were to thick and the washer would not sit properly on the intake manifold, it would not tighten the intake manifold. I eventually opted for an OEM pattern tubular header.
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The Mopar Chinese version was no different. I had to spent a fair bit of time with a Dremel cleaning up the ports and a grinder on most of the surfaces that share a bolt with the intake. Pretty sure it's the same Chinese supplier but at twice the cost.
Thought about the Banks header but there's been some complaints about them cracking also.
Awesome, glad to hear that! Thanks for the update as well. I can't stand when people don't post an update to their problem.
Hey @lunchbox3 , I think I'm asking the same question over here. Can you let me know what you figured out?
Thanks. I was actually asking about the spacers and nuts, but I see your reply on the other thread.
I have a 98 TJ i am replacing my exhaust manifold gasket. The manifold does not have the front or rear stub just as you are describing. In addition the 3/8 bolt will not fit in these holes either. Is it possible that these front and rear studs are an M8x1.25 Stud?
Interesting. I'd be surprised if you and I had Jeeps that did not originally come with the stud. My best guess is that for both of us, the PO (or a shop, in my case) snapped them, and replaced them with bolts. In the process, they probably had to open the threads up (tap them) to a larger size after getting damaged.
Mine turned out to be 7/16. If you have the bolts that came out, you can just take those in to a shop and match the size and thread. But be sure you look for any fragments of the original studs in those holes. You won't get anything too far in there unless those are removed.
Check the links in my notes at the bottom of this post, in case they might be helpful to you. Let me know what you find!