Frame preventative maintenance question

Jps0311

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Original poster
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Apr 10, 2019
Messages
26
Location
North Carolina
Hi guys,

So, I've had my '03 TJ for a coupe days now and couldn't be happier with my purchase. I was the one who posted last week if I was making the right decision to buy this.

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Upon my initial inspection the frame was 99% rust free on the outside. It wasn't until I got it home and started poking around inside the frame where I noticed I had a lil problem. I searched around on the forum for what to do next and started by using a long flexible magnet to grab out as much flakes as I could. I got about 1/3 of a solo cup filled up. From what I've seen, that's not too bad....?

Next, I decided to drill holes in the bottom of the frame. 3/8" in size and right behind the front control arms and in front of the rear control arms.

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Rear^

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Front^


Next, I flushed out the inside of the frame as best I could using a garden hose and snaking down the frame thru the large holes on the side. there wasn't much dirt and crud that got flushed out - mainly just rust dust.

The other issue I'm dealing with is a bit of surface rust mainly between where the tcase skid plate was mounted.
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Next, I'm planning the following steps.
1. Blow out frame with air compressor and continue to get as clean as possible
2. Spray with Eastwood internal frame coating.
3. Eastwood Rust encapsulator on frame surface rust and some suspension component parts as well as differential housing which is showing some rust.
4. Eastwood Chassis paint the entire frame and chassis.

Am I headed down the right path with this process? I've only had the Jeep for 3 days now but want to make sure it lasts me for the long haul.

I was also going to pick up some Jack 6 ton jack stands on Craigslist tomorrow. Can I lift from the front and rear differential housing and then just put the stands under the axles? The front diff housing is not exactly in the center so I wasn't sure if the balance was centered enough o do it that way. Thanks.
 
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Can I lift from the front and rear differential housing and then just put the stands under the axles? The front diff housing is not exactly in the center so I wasn't sure if the balance was centered enough o do it that way. Thanks.

Great looking jeep. I lift my jeep from the axle housings all the time. Like you guessed the front will want to lift the drivers side more then the passenger.

If you have a pressure washer you can buy a "Pressure Washer Sewer Drain Hose" to flush out the inside of the frame out.
 
Lubricate it! Fluid Film or CRC Rust inhibitor or even a newer version of WD40 seems to get great reviews. I did the Eastwood internal on my frame years ago, but then I dosed it up w Fluid Film. Paint will only adhere and protect until moisture penetrates. Lubrication keeps the rust at bay.

Btw, very good looking TJ! And it’s in amazing shape. You’ll be fine. Keep it clean and lubbed. Sounds lewd, actually lol [emoji854]


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Thanks! I’ve definitely read a lot about fluid film and will add that to my preventative rust procedure as well!

One other question I had was about removing my tcase skid plate. It is my understanding that the skid plate actually bears some of the weight from the transfer case, correct? So I assume it wouldn’t be as simple as removing the bolts and dropping the skid plate? I need to have some way to support the transfer case...any suggestions on the proper/safe way to do that?
 
Thanks! I’ve definitely read a lot about fluid film and will add that to my preventative rust procedure as well!

One other question I had was about removing my tcase skid plate. It is my understanding that the skid plate actually bears some of the weight from the transfer case, correct? So I assume it wouldn’t be as simple as removing the bolts and dropping the skid plate? I need to have some way to support the transfer case...any suggestions on the proper/safe way to do that?
I have always put a jackstand on the tail end of the transfer case. Also you need to remove the 4 bolts holding the trans mount to the center of the skid.
 
Damn, that thing is clean!

Even the most rust free TJs will rust in that one area right underneath the transfer case skid. There's no way around it, it just happens. Even mine (which was 99% rust free) had the rust there as well.

All you have to do is get a high powered angle grinder with a wire wheel attachment. Take it down to bare metal and get ALL the rust off (including any other spots you see rust in as well). After that, clean the area, and paint it with a satin sheen Rustoleum paint (or similar). I did that to mine and it blended in so well you couldn't even tell it had been repainted.

Do this to any and all areas you find rust in. After that, apply Eastwood Internal Frame Coating very liberally to the inside of the frame, and Fluid Film on the entire outside of the frame. Repeat this process a few times a year and you'll be good forever!
 
Nice.

Havent heard about this yet or seen anyone adding this product to the inside of the frame besides you. Will do!
 
Both the box rails were bare steel. The one on the left had no coating the one on the right was coated with two coats of cavity wax. That is after 1000 hours of a salt tank. That’s equivalent to 5-7 years. The one on the right doesn’t even have any rust between the mating flanges. The way the product is designed it will creep into all the seams once the temperature gets above 70*. It will actually wick up vertically between two panels.

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Just finished another step of my frame cleanup and was blown away with how much rust I flushed out of the frame. I was able to get my hand on a Sewer Jetter and let me tell you, this thing was a game changer for breaking up the loose rust on the walls and flushing it out. I spent about 1.5 hours snaking this thing through every hole in every direction until completely clean. Below are some pictures of the rust that came out (remember, this was after fishing out a bunch using the magnet). All of this came out of the factory drain holes as well as the holes that I drilled. It was best to flush it towards the front and rear factory drain holes as they were definitely bigger.

Next I'm going to try and macgyver a hose that I can attach to my shop vac for blowing/sucking out anything I may have missed after the frame dries out.

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Eastwood man.

Which reminds me, I need to drill those holes in my frame as well. been putting it off for 2 years now :(
 
You can Eastwood all day, but I believe in the addition of lubricant or oil. And I’ve used Eastwood internal coating as well. Just not convinced that it hits every area and protects long term.


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You can Eastwood all day, but I believe in the addition of lubricant or oil. And I’ve used Eastwood internal coating as well. Just not convinced that it hits every area and protects long term.


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You're talking add over the already applied Eastwood? or separately?
 
Yes, I'm also planning on going over everything (especially inside the frame) with some type of lubricant. Fluid Film should do the trick here, correct? Is there some other product that you would recommend. Iv'e heard of the 3M Cavity Wax product as well it just seems hard to find.
 
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I painted the area were my skid plate attached and then put 1/8" thick washers on the bolts between the frame and skid plate. You can the hose to clean and stop anymore rust between the skid plate and frame.
 
What about a rust converter inside the frame, then eastwoods, then fluid film?

Is there a way to get a rust converter inside the frame?
 
From what I understand the Eastwoods acts as a sort of “encapsulator” for the present rust. Converter should only be used on HEAVY rust and not clean/bare surfaces. I suppose if the inside of your frame was 100% rusted to crap the converter would be okay.