Frame preventative maintenance question

Having used the Eastwood product I learned some things along the way. The coiled extension nozzle that comes with each can has taken a 'set'. This will coil up as you try to apply the product and make a mess. Use a heat gun to take the set out and to straighten the tubing. Next, cut a piece of metal coat hanger approx. 36" long. Tape the spray nozzle to the hanger and go through the holes in your frame. I used a piece of red duct tape so I had a visual warning that the nozzle end was nearing the exit hole so I could stop spraying. This gives you much more control as you withdraw the nozzle. Use gloves because this product is thin and you are bound to get some on you. I used 8 cans on the inside of my frame and still did not reach everything as revealed by a bore scoping.
 
Hey Jps0311, Do you have any tire rub with those 285/75/16s? Thats a sweet looking TJ!

Thanks! Nope, no tire rub with only the 2" OME HD lift.

I do think the tires look a little squished in there, especially the rear, so I'm planning on a 1" BL soon.
 
Having used the Eastwood product I learned some things along the way. The coiled extension nozzle that comes with each can has taken a 'set'. This will coil up as you try to apply the product and make a mess. Use a heat gun to take the set out and to straighten the tubing. Next, cut a piece of metal coat hanger approx. 36" long. Tape the spray nozzle to the hanger and go through the holes in your frame. I used a piece of red duct tape so I had a visual warning that the nozzle end was nearing the exit hole so I could stop spraying. This gives you much more control as you withdraw the nozzle. Use gloves because this product is thin and you are bound to get some on you. I used 8 cans on the inside of my frame and still did not reach everything as revealed by a bore scoping.

Thats a great suggestion about the coat hanger! Did not think of that and honestly struggled trying to keep the nozzle in the middle of the frame. I taped off most of the holes snd then reopened them when I needed access in that part of the frame.

Very surprised you needed 8 cans! I used 4 and felt like I got good coverage. I used the black paint and don't have a bore scope though :confused:
 
Thanks! Nope, no tire rub with only the 2" OME HD lift.

I do think the tires look a little squished in there, especially the rear, so I'm planning on a 1" BL soon.

Are those stock TJ wheels 7 inch width? I recall for a 285/75/R16 tire, most manufactures recommend a minimum 7 1/2 inch width wheel. Are you having any issues with uneven tire wear or squishy road handling?
 
Thats a great suggestion about the coat hanger! Did not think of that and honestly struggled trying to keep the nozzle in the middle of the frame. I taped off most of the holes snd then reopened them when I needed access in that part of the frame.

Very surprised you needed 8 cans! I used 4 and felt like I got good coverage. I used the black paint and don't have a bore scope though :confused:

Well I thought I had excellent coverage until I inspected with a borescope. I also thought I had removed most of the rust flakes. I would say I probably have a good 75% coverage which is going to have to suffice as I can't justify spending more money. I do believe a yearly cleaning, inspection and re-coating will be necessary to keep rust in check. I'm leaning toward a misting type of lubricant inside the frame.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Not_Invented_Here_
Are those stock TJ wheels 7 inch width? I recall for a 285/75/R16 tire, most manufactures recommend a minimum 7 1/2 inch width wheel. Are you having any issues with uneven tire wear or squishy road handling?

They are the factory Rubicon wheels. 16x8 "MOAB2".

Tires are brand new but they ride great so cant tell of any uneven wear.
 
  • Like
Reactions: indio
I've had nothing but poor results with any Eastwood product. Followed directions to the letter. After using 2 coats of their rust converter on a truck frame (again, followed their directions to the letter) I went out the next morning and had flash rust from the dew. That was 4 years ago and am STILL waiting for their "representative " to call me back. One rail I went over with Rustolium converter and then black paint. Other side with just paint. Both look very similar. One section I used the Eastwood prime and paint. Today that area is almost to the point of looking untouched.(Again, following their directions to the letter. ) Did not use the internal stuff for fear of sealing in rust and letting moisture wick in. Again, followed their directions to the letter. Poor product and NO customer support. Their gas tank sealer kit sits in the basement for fear what that would do too. That was for a tractor. Couldn't pay me enough to use ANYTHING from that company. Not until their customer support finally returns my call.
 
My LJ has some sort of oil residue sprayed inside the frame from the PO. Can I just apply the internal Eastwood coating over that or what?
 
I've had nothing but poor results with any Eastwood product. Followed directions to the letter. After using 2 coats of their rust converter on a truck frame (again, followed their directions to the letter) I went out the next morning and had flash rust from the dew. That was 4 years ago and am STILL waiting for their "representative " to call me back. One rail I went over with Rustolium converter and then black paint. Other side with just paint. Both look very similar. One section I used the Eastwood prime and paint. Today that area is almost to the point of looking untouched.(Again, following their directions to the letter. ) Did not use the internal stuff for fear of sealing in rust and letting moisture wick in. Again, followed their directions to the letter. Poor product and NO customer support. Their gas tank sealer kit sits in the basement for fear what that would do too. That was for a tractor. Couldn't pay me enough to use ANYTHING from that company. Not until their customer support finally returns my call.

I am on the fence about the internal coating. I've used it but doubt I will again. Still searching for a solid plan for the inside frame locations
My LJ has some sort of oil residue sprayed inside the frame from the PO. Can I just apply the internal Eastwood coating over that or what?

No, you'll want a clean dry surface. I just got a borescope from Amazon that other people recommended on this site and it is a good deal. You can watch the scope with your cell phone.
 
We must be related. That is one sweet looking TJ and will remain so for years to come. I am also a fan of Eastwood products. You already know what you are doing and you are getting some very nice tips to enhance your efforts. Don't mean to be redundant but damn your Jeep looks good!
 
I am on the fence about the internal coating. I've used it but doubt I will again. Still searching for a solid plan for the inside frame locations


No, you'll want a clean dry surface. I just got a borescope from Amazon that other people recommended on this site and it is a good deal. You can watch the scope with your cell phone.

Hey which borescope model did you get, and how is it working for you so far? I saw several on Amazon, usb wired connected to phone and also wifi. The wifi looks convenient, but I'm concerned about the wifi being finicky, and I don't want to deal with connectivity issues.
 
I did the internal coating and saved one of the wands that come with it.I cut the small brass end off and use it on the fluid film aerosol cans.gives you extra length to get into the doors and frame areas.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fourpointzero
Couldn't pay me enough to use ANYTHING from that company. Not until their customer support finally returns my call.


Guess you could compare their products to the supplements people buy when they first start working out. You think they actually work, but at best it’s a placebo effect and there’s nothing to substantiate their claims.

Im being a bit of a clown, but really, I can’t say that any of their converters or coatings that I’ve used have really worked.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
There is something called "New Hampshire something something " it is a heavy wax like product sort of like FF, but thicker. It comes in black and a clearing waxy yellow. I've never used it, but the U-tubers love it. I'm leaning more and more to the fluid film and this New Ham. type. Any hard coating or paint that starts to fail is nearly impossible to remove. The FF type can be added to on top of older FF to add more protection.
 
There is something called "New Hampshire something something " it is a heavy wax like product sort of like FF, but thicker. It comes in black and a clearing waxy yellow. I've never used it, but the U-tubers love it. I'm leaning more and more to the fluid film and this New Ham. type. Any hard coating or paint that starts to fail is nearly impossible to remove. The FF type can be added to on top of older FF to add more protection.

I'm leaning that way too.
 
Is this the ""New Hampshire something something stuff"?

NH Oil Undercoating Back-N-Black

There is something called "New Hampshire something something " it is a heavy wax like product sort of like FF, but thicker. It comes in black and a clearing waxy yellow. I've never used it, but the U-tubers love it. I'm leaning more and more to the fluid film and this New Ham. type. Any hard coating or paint that starts to fail is nearly impossible to remove. The FF type can be added to on top of older FF to add more protection.