Fuel sender signal wire options

Yep you most likely need to not use the common ground and not cut that wire. These things are really picky about how stuff is wired up.
Yep, more data than flow. I did get the codes to stay away. They may have been from one of my tests and for some reason, I could not clear them on the fly. I re-hooked the sender ground back to OE position and used a common prior to the codes clearing. I was told that the ground was a no go before. I had to overthink it. I will button up the wiring tomorrow. The engine was super flooded I think. It smelled rich. Probably when the PCM could not sense any fuel. I hi idled it a bit and the sputter, low idle and stink went away. No more stalling. Hope that was it for now!!
 
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I have a fuel gauge "problem" with my dash swap. The gauge I bought is a "240 Ohm Empty - 30 Ohms Full", the sender is supposed to be 220 empty and 20 full. Close enough. Problem is thje needle sits at 15/16 full when the tank is just topped off and drops to 0/0 in about 15 miles of driving.

I picked up the sender wire from a harness in the engine compartment (C-103) in the black connector hareness.

Any help would be appreciated. I assumed it was a bad gauge and I bought another and it is doing the same, So I rule out bad gauge.

Thanks for any input.

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What dash do you have?