Got an email today from GenRight with a pretrail check list that I like and thought I'd share. Plus there is some other info on the page that some might find useful.
https://genright.com/tech-talk-with...162348129&mc_cid=d881989a44&mc_eid=9ba786e281
Here is what got me looking at the page on their website. Felt it wasn't a bad checklist.
13 Things You Need To Check On Your Jeep Before Hitting The Trail
We all get excited to get out on the trail, but don’t go out before checking these important items on your Jeep before leaving home.
https://genright.com/tech-talk-with...162348129&mc_cid=d881989a44&mc_eid=9ba786e281
Here is what got me looking at the page on their website. Felt it wasn't a bad checklist.
13 Things You Need To Check On Your Jeep Before Hitting The Trail
We all get excited to get out on the trail, but don’t go out before checking these important items on your Jeep before leaving home.
- Gas gauge – Fill up before getting on the trail! We don’t need to see a JP Gaslight Challenge on the trail and you get stranded. Fill up!
- Check for leaks: Crawl under your Jeep and see if anything is seeping, dripping or leaking from the engine, transmission, transfer case, and differentials. If it is, assess the situation for a make-or-break issue. (Will you make it through the trail if that spot is leaking – for example a power steering line leak should be fixed so you don't lose steering on the trail.)
- Check bolts on suspension components and make sure they are tight. Use Torqseal in a line from the bolt head to the steel piece below so you can easily tell if it is moving or not.
- While checking suspension, look at the joints, bushings in the control arms, or if you use heims or Johnny Joints check them for slop and play when shaking them. That means they are worn and need to be replaced or rebuilt.
- Axles and differential covers should be inspected. Some of the bolts on the diff cover may have some rock rash, or maybe you grabbed a pointy rock with the lip of the cover last time out and now it is dripping. Reseal it. Nobody wants to see your drip marks on the trail.
- Drive Shafts should be inspected for damage. For those with a double cardan shaft (the double u-joint piece in a drive shaft), make sure it is difficult to move the double cardan around. That should never be sloppy. If it is, its about to explode and take out your transfer case, and that’s a bad day.
- Inspect all brackets for damage and cracks. Cracks in a trac bar bracket at the frame side can leave you stranded on the trail (GenRight makes a beefier version because the OEM one likes to break off). Make sure you inspect both the front and rear trac bar brackets.
- Steering components should be looked over thoroughly, including upper and lower knuckles, drag link, tie rod end, pitman arm, steering box, trac bar, pump and steering fluid level.
- Shocks need to be inspected for rock damage to the shock shaft. That can lead to the shock leaking and eventually no fluid or nitrogen. Also check springs: Leaf springs check the I bolt in the middle, and the clamps holding the pack as well as the wrap on the bushing attaching it to the vehicle. For coil springs like on TJ, JK, JL, Gladiator, check to see if the spring has rotated out of the coil bucket and needs to be re-seated to its proper position (this happens when you get really flexy). For coil overs check the slider for bind, and the springs themselves to make sure they are not cracked, or have tire rub marks on them (a sign you have some other issues going on in the suspension), and lastly check the secondary nut location. It should be about 2 fingers above the slider (depending on your ride height and when you want the secondary spring to engage). Finally check the bolts on the socks to make sure they are tight.
- Tires need to be inspected for sidewall damage. Look for rock gashes, slashes and chunking. Tread also needs to be inspected for wear. Look to see if the tire has a crown in the middle, if it is “feathering” from inside the tread to out or visa versa – these are all signs of tire pressure and/or alignment or ball joint issues if the front tires have it. Don’t forget to check your PSI and make sure all 4 tires match, or that can cause tires to wear in odd patterns and ruin the tire. Always check the valve stem. It is often overlooked and can be cracked and leaking. There is cool product called a Colby Valve that you can order on Amazon that will fix your valve stem without having to dismount the tire – so if you rip it on a tree or rock on the trail, this is the fix to get you off the trail and home.
- Check all fluids under the hood: oil, transmission, power steering, brakes, coolant, and clutch for those that like a 3rd pedal. Washer fluid is also important to check – we’ve seen some pretty dirty Jeeps come off the trail, or even some of you live in areas with lots of bugs that are attracted to the windshield. Fill all fluids accordingly.
- Under the hood there are lots more items to check. Oil Filter should not leak and be on tight. Water pump should not leak. Alternator should have not crusty cables going to it, and make sure its charging. Spark plugs should have all wires on them – give them all a push just to make sure they are clicked into place. Your Jeeps battery should hold a charge…don’t go on the trail with something you have to jump start every time you shut it off. That leads to a long day and a bad experience for others with you.
- Start your Jeep to make sure the fuel pump primes and works. Also turn the steering wheel to make sure the steering isn’t whining like a turkey – that means you have a loose belt and it needs to be replaced, or you have a pulley out of alignment. For those with full hydraulic steering, if it whines then it’s a sign the pump is starting to fail, and that will be a bugger to steer to get off the trail and home.
