Going from 2.5” to 4” lift (keep / exchange list)

NOLAJeep

...hold my beer.
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2019
Messages
418
Location
Louisiana
2004 4.0 Rubicon
I’m staying on 33s for now
Mild off-roading but I want quality parts

What I have now.

2.5” OME lift
JKS front and rear adjustable track bar
JKS front adjustable disconnect
Savvy 1.25” BL
Savvy Transfer Cable
1” MML
JKS Rear sway bar adjustable endlinks
DPG Extended bump stops

What I think I need

CE-9100AS - TJ/LJ JOHNNY JOINT® ADJUSTABLE CONTROL ARM SET (DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE UPPERS)

CE-9130H - TJ 4" LIFT COIL SPRINGS (SET OF 4)​

CE-9121N - TJ/LJ REAR TRAC BAR RELOCATOR BRACKET KIT

CE-9150 - RANCHO RS9000XL SHOCKS (JEEP TJ/LJ SET FOR RJ LIFTS)

Extended brake lines.

Is this all I need to go to 4” or am I missing anything? Should I replace anything that I already have (obviously the shocks/springs)?

Do I need driveshafts or is that a wait and see thing? Rear perch relocated?

@Chris i know you went from OME to Currie so any input would be welcome.
Should I just purchase the whole kit from rockjock or keep what I have and buy the parts I need?

Thanks in advance guys for helping me spend money😂
 
Last edited:
I didn't save a single thing from my OME lift. I got the complete RockJock 4" lift and did away with everything else.

I could have kept the JKS track bars, but I didn't because the RockJock track bars are far superior.

You will need a new rear driveshaft but you'll need to wait and see how long you need until after the lift is installed. Extended brake lines are a must, and relocated spring perches are something you'll ideally want as well.
 
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For the minimum, I’d get all the control arms (not just the uppers), trackbar relocation bracket (note: you need to weld the Currie one), springs, and shocks. Once you get dialed in you can measure for a new drive shaft and possibly change your bump stops.

Most other stuff you have will work until you decide you want to squeeze the extra performance out.

You might want to consider doing a TT at the same time to avoid ordering a drive shaft twice.
 
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If you went with a flat belly, you'd gain the same clearance where it's needed most as you would with the 4" lift, and you could keep the current lift.
 
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