Lightweight, Function Over Form, '99 Sport Build Thread

[Murphy TJ]

This is my build thread, and personal documentation, of my currently bone stock (PO did install a tow hitch) 1999 4.0L 5 speed manual Sport with 165k miles and one previous owner. It's in great condition, very little to no rust. Going into the shop soon for a little engine work and to ensure that everything is indeed fine. This will be my first build for any Jeep. I own a 1944 Willys MB and have been doing little bits and bobs to it but not anything for off road capability.

The goals I have for this build are:

• A relatively lightweight build (been doing lots of research benefits of being lightweight vs heavy)
• Keeping the stock look and feel (getting experience first before crazy mods, and its more of a challenge to wheel this way!)
• Useful and meaningful mods (not looking for mods that look cool; function over form)

With that said, here is my current build plan (in stages of when I plan to install):
Stage 1: Clutch bypass fuse, 235/75r15 Wrangler Duratracs, Pioneer Radio with bluetooth, USB plug, Bartact seat covers, Bartact roll bar grab handles, Soft top window storage bag
Stage 2: MOOG 3226/3227 springs, Rancho RS5000 shocks, ARB E-Z deflator, Viair 88p compressor (portable), Warn tow hooks, Cleaning the frame and factory skid plates + bumpers
Stage 3: Warn M8000 winch, Warn raised winch plate, Metalcloak steering box skid, Metalcloak oil pan skid

Are there any mods you would recommend? Any mods that I should change for a better option? Does anyone else have experience with off roading lightweight and relatively stock vs heavily modded?

Looking forward to any advice I receive! I will post pictures as I install, hopefully all to be completed by the end of this summer (current build plan barring any changes).

 

[IPerkWVU]

Why staying with the 235/75r15 tire size? Those are pretty small. Tires are expensive, I’d suggest buying the size that goes with your upgraded suspension phase. Maybe look at 31s?

 

[Murphy TJ]

Why staying with the 235/75r15 tire size? Those are pretty small. Tires are expensive, I’d suggest buying the size that goes with your upgraded suspension phase. Maybe look at 31s?

From my research, Duratracs only come in 235/75r15 (29”) and 31x10.5r15 for 15 inch rims. I could go for the 31s but would likely need some way of getting extra clearance to maintain up-travel. Would H&R springs give enough clearance to get the full up-travel (anyone got experience with these springs and 31s)? Are 3.73 gears enough for 31s (I hear 4.10 is optimal, but is 3.73 acceptable)? Is there a huge difference between 29s and 31s for a relatively inexperienced driver?

 

[Blackjack]

The Rubicons basically came with a 32x10.5 and with little more than a 3/8 plate for the bumpstop up front. I would look into the H&R springs and go with 31s.

 

[IPerkWVU]

I’d go 31s. I can’t speak specifically to gearing but many here run 31s on stock gears. 1” on the tire sidewall is definitely noticeable / helpful down the road

 

[JMT]

This is my build thread, and personal documentation, of my currently bone stock (PO did install a tow hitch) 1999 4.0L 5 speed manual Sport with 165k miles and one previous owner. It's in great condition, very little to no rust. Going into the shop soon for a little engine work and to ensure that everything is indeed fine. This will be my first build for any Jeep. I own a 1944 Willys MB and have been doing little bits and bobs to it but not anything for off road capability.

The goals I have for this build are:

• A relatively lightweight build (been doing lots of research benefits of being lightweight vs heavy)
• Keeping the stock look and feel (getting experience first before crazy mods, and its more of a challenge to wheel this way!)
• Useful and meaningful mods (not looking for mods that look cool; function over form)

With that said, here is my current build plan (in stages of when I plan to install):
Stage 1: Clutch bypass fuse, 235/75r15 Wrangler Duratracs, Pioneer Radio with bluetooth, USB plug, Bartact seat covers, Bartact roll bar grab handles, Soft top window storage bag
Stage 2: MOOG 3226/3227 springs, Rancho RS5000 shocks, ARB E-Z deflator, Viair 88p compressor (portable), Warn tow hooks, Cleaning the frame and factory skid plates + bumpers
Stage 3: Warn M8000 winch, Warn raised winch plate, Metalcloak steering box skid, Metalcloak oil pan skid

Are there any mods you would recommend? Any mods that I should change for a better option? Does anyone else have experience with off roading lightweight and relatively stock vs heavily modded?

Looking forward to any advice I receive! I will post pictures as I install, hopefully all to be completed by the end of this summer (current build plan barring any changes).

You’re talking about going lightweight, but then you’re adding quite a bit of weight and going with basically a stock spring replacement and tires. The extra weight is going to give you less than stock height. I would definitely give yourself some suspension lift and a body lift to clear bigger tires. A gas tank skid would also be desirable.

My ideal lightweight build is 1.75”+1.25” with aluminum armor, lockers, tucked running 32’s with outboarded rear shocks.

 

[Irun]

From my research, Duratracs only come in 235/75r15 (29”) and 31x10.5r15 for 15 inch rims. I could go for the 31s but would likely need some way of getting extra clearance to maintain up-travel. Would H&R springs give enough clearance to get the full up-travel (anyone got experience with these springs and 31s)? Are 3.73 gears enough for 31s (I hear 4.10 is optimal, but is 3.73 acceptable)? Is there a huge difference between 29s and 31s for a relatively inexperienced driver?

I've been down this path and then some. Start out with the 31" tire size, add H&R springs, then tune as needed from there. By tuning I mean add a 1.25" body lift (BL), or 1" aluminum spring spacer, if needed. FWIW, the 1st choice should be a BL, with the spacers being the second. To be clear, you won't need both, just one or the other.

Once you have your final height, measure for shocks and add them, then drive and enjoy. The 3.73 gearing will be fine for a 31" tire, and it makes no sense to spend money on re-gearing to go up to a 4.10.

https://www.tirerack.com/suspension...BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!!!!x!!&gclsrc=aw.ds
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2753012022...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-bltj/

 

[roverhi]

From my research, Duratracs only come in 235/75r15 (29”) and 31x10.5r15 for 15 inch rims. I could go for the 31s but would likely need some way of getting extra clearance to maintain up-travel. Would H&R springs give enough clearance to get the full up-travel (anyone got experience with these springs and 31s)? Are 3.73 gears enough for 31s (I hear 4.10 is optimal, but is 3.73 acceptable)? Is there a huge difference between 29s and 31s for a relatively inexperienced driver?

I'm running 265/70/17 tires which are 31.6" height on 3.73 gears. Not as peppy as the original 30" tires but not a dog either. Will hold 4th O/D on the 42 RLE auto trans on the freeway though pressed a bit on hills. If I was staying with the 31.6" tires wouldn't bother with a regear. Going to go with 4.88 gears when I move up to 33" tires, however. Haven't done any hardcore rock crawling but fire road driving and speed bumps haven't been a problem with 1 1/4" body lift on the current tires .

 

[Murphy TJ]

Thanks all for your replies, they have been very helpful. Seems like it would be better to go for the H&R springs over the moog, as those will provide more lift to clear the 31s and a 1.25 BL. Then comes the question of weight. I think my only heavy item I would like to add is a winch. Are the H&R springs stiff enough to support that kind of weight? Should I also look for aluminum steering box and oil pan skids instead of the steel ones? Should I also look to replace the factory skids with aluminum?

 

[Irun]

Thanks all for your replies, they have been very helpful. Seems like it would be better to go for the H&R springs over the moog, as those will provide more lift to clear the 31s and a 1.25 BL. Then comes the question of weight. I think my only heavy item I would like to add is a winch. Are the H&R springs stiff enough to support that kind of weight? Should I also look for aluminum steering box and oil pan skids instead of the steel ones? Should I also look to replace the factory skids with aluminum?

H&R springs will be fine with the winch. Just remember to use synthetic line. As for the skids, go aluminum wherever possible and practical. With the rock sliders being the obvious place to go steel. Savvy's steel sliders with aluminum rocker guard is the best choice.

 

[Murphy TJ]

H&R springs will be fine with the winch. Just remember to use synthetic line. As for the skids, go aluminum wherever possible and practical. With the rock sliders being the obvious place to go steel. Savvy's steel sliders with aluminum rocker guard is the best choice.

Would you recommend a 1" MML as well, or is that unnecessary?

 

[Irun]

Would you recommend a 1" MML as well, or is that unnecessary?

Yes, if you install the body lift. It helps keep the driveline in better alignment and will help move the shifter back up after the body lift.. Just be aware that you'll need to move the fan shroud. It will likely hit the fan at the bottom.

 

[JMT]

Would you recommend a 1" MML as well, or is that unnecessary?

It’s not necessary, but usually recommended. The fan is connected to the motor and the shroud is connected to the body, so when you raise the body the shroud raises and interferes with the fan. You can fix it by lowering the shroud or raising the motor. The first is free, the second costs about $50.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

This is my build thread, and personal documentation, of my currently bone stock (PO did install a tow hitch) 1999 4.0L 5 speed manual Sport with 165k miles and one previous owner. It's in great condition, very little to no rust. Going into the shop soon for a little engine work and to ensure that everything is indeed fine. This will be my first build for any Jeep. I own a 1944 Willys MB and have been doing little bits and bobs to it but not anything for off road capability.

The goals I have for this build are:

• A relatively lightweight build (been doing lots of research benefits of being lightweight vs heavy)
• Keeping the stock look and feel (getting experience first before crazy mods, and its more of a challenge to wheel this way!)
• Useful and meaningful mods (not looking for mods that look cool; function over form)

With that said, here is my current build plan (in stages of when I plan to install):
Stage 1: Clutch bypass fuse, 235/75r15 Wrangler Duratracs, Pioneer Radio with bluetooth, USB plug, Bartact seat covers, Bartact roll bar grab handles, Soft top window storage bag
Stage 2: MOOG 3226/3227 springs, Rancho RS5000 shocks, ARB E-Z deflator, Viair 88p compressor (portable), Warn tow hooks, Cleaning the frame and factory skid plates + bumpers
Stage 3: Warn M8000 winch, Warn raised winch plate, Metalcloak steering box skid, Metalcloak oil pan skid

Are there any mods you would recommend? Any mods that I should change for a better option? Does anyone else have experience with off roading lightweight and relatively stock vs heavily modded?

Looking forward to any advice I receive! I will post pictures as I install, hopefully all to be completed by the end of this summer (current build plan barring any changes).

Tons and Fodeez.



OK - Lightweight Tons and Fodeez…

 

[Murphy TJ]

I think this is the new plan:

Stage 1: suspension

• 31x10.5r15 Wrangler Duratracs
• H&R 1” springs
• (Savvy 1.25” BL)
• (Savvy 1” MML)
• Rancho RS5000 0-2” shocks

(might add the body lift a bit later than everything else)


Stage 2: armor

• Savvy aluminum steering box skid
• UCF Engine skid
• UCF Rockers
• (UCF gas skid and transfer case)

Stage 3: recovery

• Warn front tow hooks
• Warn 2” hitch receiver d-ring
• Warn M8000 winch
• Warn raised winch plate

Is UCF as good as Savvy for under armor? Opinions on their rockers vs the Savvy ones?

 

[Mfpaul73]

I'm running 265/70/17 tires which are 31.6" height on 3.73 gears. Not as peppy as the original 30" tires but not a dog either. Will hold 4th O/D on the 42 RLE auto trans on the freeway though pressed a bit on hills. If I was staying with the 31.6" tires wouldn't bother with a regear. Going to go with 4.88 gears when I move up to 33" tires, however. Haven't done any hardcore rock crawling but fire road driving and speed bumps haven't been a problem with 1 1/4" body lift on the current tires .

You are running 17” rims on the LJ, with minimal lift? Do you have a photo? Are they OE rims from Jeep? I am considering some JL wheels that are 17 and wondered how they might fit. Would need spacers for lug conversion.

 

[roverhi]

The 1 1/4" Savvy body lift makes for a little more than 1/2 the loss in room for the larger tires. Still working on 1" JKS motor mount lift and cable transfer case linkage. Haven't tried to cycle the suspension so don't know how much clearance there was without the body lift. It did work fine on the street with the SwayLok in the street setting with the stock spring height before the body lift. No problems with speed bumps or dirt roads but no serious suspension cycling. Plan is for a 2"-3" spring lift as soon as I settle on a tire size. Strangely the 1 1/4" adapters and 17" wheels cured a rubbing problem with the SwayLok mounting bolt that had to be put in with the the threads sticking out on the wheel side. Maybe the larger diameter wheel cleared the bolt or the 1/4 inch I sawed off the threads did the job despite the wider tire. The JK rims with the 1 1/4" adapter space are supposedly the same backspacing as the 15" Canyon rims.

The original Canyon 15" wheels still had the original tires which were unevenly worn and caused a vibration above 62mph. The 17" rims are butter smooth to at least 80 mph. When the jeep was in Kona with the old tires didn't drive it faster than the 55mph speed limit so never noticed the imbalance. Bought the LJ 3 years ago but wife's medical condition necessitated a temporary move to SoCal with periodic commutes back to Kona so haven't driven the LJ that much, still less than 30,000 miles on it. Finally made the commitment to move permanently to Oceanside last fall when the Grandkids here in CA and both our health concerns dictated moving after 45 years in Kona. With Gas prices approaching $6.00 a gallon here in CA have been driving a car that gets triple the highway mileage of the LJ.

Fortunately I'm slowly recovering from a rather long illness and 50 lb weight loss which was mostly muscle. Things that used to be easy require Shanghai'ing my 15 year old grandson when muscle is needed. Slowly gaining strength but for some reason having a hard time gaining weight above 110 lbs. So progress is slow but making headway. As soon as I finish the 1" JKS motor mount and Savvy Cable Transfer Case shifter will post photos of the 1 1/4" body lift and start driving the jeep more. Want to explore the Anza Borrego Springs desert wilderness that has some easy to moderate trails through narrow sandstone canyons and is only a couple hours away.

 

[Mfpaul73]

The 1 1/4" Savvy body lift makes for a little more than 1/2 the loss in room for the larger tires. Still working on 1" JKS motor mount lift and cable transfer case linkage. Haven't tried to cycle the suspension so don't know how much clearance there was without the body lift. It did work fine on the street with the SwayLok in the street setting with the stock spring height before the body lift. No problems with speed bumps or dirt roads but no serious suspension cycling. Plan is for a 2"-3" spring lift as soon as I settle on a tire size. Strangely the 1 1/4" adapters and 17" wheels cured a rubbing problem with the SwayLok mounting bolt that had to be put in with the the threads sticking out on the wheel side. Maybe the larger diameter wheel cleared the bolt or the 1/4 inch I sawed off the threads did the job despite the wider tire. The JK rims with the 1 1/4" adapter space are supposedly the same backspacing as the 15" Canyon rims.

The original Canyon 15" wheels still had the original tires which were unevenly worn and caused a vibration above 62mph. The 17" rims are butter smooth to at least 80 mph. When the jeep was in Kona with the old tires didn't drive it faster than the 55mph speed limit so never noticed the imbalance. Bought the LJ 3 years ago but wife's medical condition necessitated a temporary move to SoCal with periodic commutes back to Kona so haven't driven the LJ that much, still less than 30,000 miles on it. Finally made the commitment to move permanently to Oceanside last fall when the Grandkids here in CA and both our health concerns dictated moving after 45 years in Kona. With Gas prices approaching $6.00 a gallon here in CA have been driving a car that gets triple the highway mileage of the LJ.

Fortunately I'm slowly recovering from a rather long illness and 50 lb weight loss which was mostly muscle. Things that used to be easy require Shanghai'ing my 15 year old grandson when muscle is needed. Slowly gaining strength but for some reason having a hard time gaining weight above 110 lbs. So progress is slow but making headway. As soon as I finish the 1" JKS motor mount and Savvy Cable Transfer Case shifter will post photos of the 1 1/4" body lift and start driving the jeep more. Want to explore the Anza Borrego Springs desert wilderness that has some easy to moderate trails through narrow sandstone canyons and is only a couple hours away.

Thanks for the quality info. So sorry to hear health has gotten in the way of jeeping! Hopefully the Jeep gods will smile on more wheeling this summer. At least you are in a nice climate location to enjoy more opportunities to jump in the drivers seat.

I still haven’t decided on wheels. I am currently running 31s (although their actually dimension is only about 29.5, I think) on the stock Ravines and love the rims. They will need resurfacing soon, though. considering powder coating them. I have a 2” spring lift kit ready for install too. I want to go from 31s to 32s or 33s. Trying to decide if I stiay with 15” rims. I like some of the new Jeep JL rims but not totally sure I want to mess with spacers. So many decisions… in the end I’ll be like you, in that she is a beach queen and I don’t have to worry about full articulation/flexion of the suspension. No crawling in the forecast.